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Coroner
07-13-2009, 03:07 PM
Hello folks. I own a '91 SC that I bought new and have been driving everyday since. I have replaced everything including the engine just 2 weeks ago. I have poured tons of bucks into this car and my wife hates it.

Too bad! I love my car.

Here's the problem and I have searched and read many posts but didn't find the same exact issue I'm having or a solution.

The car got rear ended about 3 years ago. Left rear was destroyed so AAA coughed up the money and replaced the rear of the car for the most part. Every since the accident, the drivers side restraint has some kind of short circuit.

Sometimes when I climb in the car and start the engine the belt doesn't retract. Sometimes I can reach over and open/close the passenger door and that will trigger it to move. Sometimes it doesn't and I have to drive with it disconnected.

I took it back to the body shop and thay replaced the restraint motor. That didn't work so I took it to the Ford dealer in Glendale, CA and after having the car for 2 days thay charged me $450.00 and said they found a bad switch in the over head column above the door but said they did have it. They found one at a Colorado dealer and instructed me to call them and order it. I did and when it came I put the new switch in. Waste of time and a lot of money cause it didn't work. I take the car back to them and the next day they call and said it's fixed? They try to charge me $250.00 and I leave after talking to the general mgr. I have never returned since. They didn't fix it. The very next day when I went to work it got stuck again.

I have been pulled over several time ands each time I show the officer the receipt for the repairs I dodge the bullet but that's not going to last too much longer.

Where do I start looking? Is there a part or switch that might be loose? Sometimes when it doesn't retract, I'll be driving on the freeway and hit a bumb and it will retract? Obviously there's something loose I guess but I don't have a clue where to look.

Please help. I have kept everything on this car in good working order except this one issue.

Please let me know......

Thanks!

WhiteThunder
07-13-2009, 06:22 PM
Attached photo is a seat belt related switch that's in the driver's and passenger's doors.

When I had my passenger's door fixed by a body shop, they forgot to plug the switch in. That made the seatbelt stay in one position. I believe the belt acted as if there was always someone in the seat.

Not sure if that could be your problem - something to look at.

Ford part number for the switch (for my '90 SC) is E7FZ-14018-A.

eddie
'90 5-speed SC
'97 LX sport

J.D.
07-13-2009, 10:58 PM
Since the Passive Restraint Module is in the trunk on the left rear fender, and you replaced the rear of the car, you might have a poor connection to the module, or it may need to be replaced.

David Neibert
07-14-2009, 11:56 AM
I had similar problems on my 93 SC and finally disconnected the wiring to the electric motor while the belts were in the driving position. So the shoulder belts never move now, and you have to manually latch/unlatch them or do like I do and simply lift the belt up over your shoulder, when getting in and out of the car.

David

TSC89
07-14-2009, 12:39 PM
Here is a link to another passive restraint post. I posted some pictures in this one showing the location of the switch in the reply above. The switch above is known to get corroded and stop working.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85884&highlight=door+ajar

Coroner
07-15-2009, 05:59 PM
Thanks for the help folks!

Since the Passive Restraint Module is in the trunk on the left rear fender, and you replaced the rear of the car, you might have a poor connection to the module, or it may need to be replaced.

This has got to be the issue but where and what do I look for? Remember that it's the driver side restraint that's giving me problems.

Coroner
09-25-2009, 08:49 PM
Here is a link to another passive restraint post. I posted some pictures in this one showing the location of the switch in the reply above. The switch above is known to get corroded and stop working.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85884&highlight=door+ajar

I went in the left side of the trunk and removed the cover and then shecked all connections and they are good. I am going to try Door ajar switch. Just got off the phone with the local dealer who said he lists it at his local warehouse but needs to confirm in the morning so I'm hoping this will resolve the problem.

Coroner
09-27-2009, 03:35 PM
I went and ordered the door ajar switch from a local ford dealer and just finished installing it. Not a lot of fun but with the right tools and got it done.

It didn't work! Just tested and the first 3 times it seemed to work. Just climbed in to go to the parts store and it stuck in the open position again!!!!!.

What makes things worst is that I'm due to replace the ignition control module and after leaving my local Pep Boys placing an order for it, go figure that it started acting up on the way home. I know it's weird but what can I say. Just hope it holds out until Wednesday when the module arrives.

Back to the belt issue. Does anyone have any idea what my next move is?

I would try replacing the Passive Restraint Module but can't find one anywhere????????

I got tagged last week for too dark of forward tint but when the cop said he was gonna ad the passive restraint seat belt to it I was able to talk my out by showing him the bill from Star Ford in Glendale, CA for charging me $450.00 in labor just to say a switch in the top door column was the issue which was not.

Please help me with this. I really need to resolve this issue a.s.a.p.

Thanks!

J.D.
09-27-2009, 04:11 PM
Here's what I'd do if I were you:
1) Go to the nearest U-Pull-It junkyard and buy a Passive Restraint Module from any 89-93(?) T-bird.
2) If the module doesn't help, I'd unplug it, and at the connector to the module check all the switches using the schematics and a voltmeter. You will need an assistant to operate the switches a number of times by opening and closing the door and door latch, and by turning the knob on the motor in order to move the seatbelt buckle.

Coroner
09-28-2009, 09:30 PM
Here's what I'd do if I were you:
1) Go to the nearest U-Pull-It junkyard and buy a Passive Restraint Module from any 89-93(?) T-bird.
2) If the module doesn't help, I'd unplug it, and at the connector to the module check all the switches using the schematics and a voltmeter. You will need an assistant to operate the switches a number of times by opening and closing the door and door latch, and by turning the knob on the motor in order to move the seatbelt buckle.
Thanks for the reply. I was going to a pick your part in the San Fernando valley but ran out of time.

What doe the Passive Restraint Module look like? I want to know I'm grabbing the right part.

J.D.
09-28-2009, 10:36 PM
It's a gray box mounted on the left fender inside the trunk. In some T-birds it is hidden behind a large black plastic cover. See the pictures (originally posted by markadeck).

nccatfan
09-28-2009, 11:19 PM
I had similar problems on my 93 SC and finally disconnected the wiring to the electric motor while the belts were in the driving position. So the shoulder belts never move now, and you have to manually latch/unlatch them or do like I do and simply lift the belt up over your shoulder, when getting in and out of the car.

David

Ditto. My pass. side works, driver side goes forward but doesn't come back. I unplugged the motor and just buckle manually now.

Coroner
10-04-2009, 08:08 PM
Well I went to our local Pick your part and scored a passive restraint module form an '89 sc (sad, totally butchered) and one from a '93 lx. I bought both for $5.00 each and installed the '93. After many tests it appears my problem is solved.

There is just one small issue left. Since the body shop installed the new restraint motor on the drivers side, it makes a rather loud whining noise.

1) Would it be safe to spray silicone lubricant onto the belt while in motion?
2) Is there better way to quiet the noise?
3) Is it the motor it's self and am I stuck listening to it?

Please let me know and thanks a lot for all your continued support!

J.D.
10-04-2009, 10:37 PM
Silicone lubricant will help with the noise and to lessen wear on the track and belt (not the seatbelt but the one inside the track). I would suggest you cover the seats (both front and rear) for a few days as the lubricant will fly out when the belt moves. You will not eliminate all the noise unless you open the rear panel and lubricate the rear end of the track. I wouldn't know if the actual motor and gear unit could cause excessive noise.