where to get a "0" balanced crank pulley?

where can i get a "0" balanced crank pulley? i got a bhj damper and none of the machine shops around here can check my stock pulley to make sure its "0" balanced.
and not an under drive pulley. i have a high powered stereo and need all the juice i can get.

You can use the stock pulley. It is not exactly -0- balance, but then again, it never was in the first place. Contrary to popular belief, the stock damper is not balanced to the stock pulley.

Mine was Dave. On the first set I had done I had it checked in every configuration because I was really tired of lunching dampeners faster than oil changes. Out of the box it was balanced for the pully, without the pully balance went away. Alone and without any pins it was again nuetral. The ASP crank pully was nuetral so the two together stayed nuetral. If fact ASP now includes a step in their instructions telling you to remove all pins before bolting the pully on. Just in case I'll ask my machinist (the same one that did my '90) when I pick up a '95 dampener I just had done with a new ASP set. He had to shave a lip off of something to make it hub-centric which must be why ASP dosen't list '95s under the underdrive set applications. I'll know more tommorrow when I pick it up. One thing of interest, also the main reason I took it to him to have it balanced instead of just removing the pins and jumping in, is that the '95 dampener and pully assembly I just bought new from Ford was balanced through a slight amount of drilling to remove dampener ring material and no pins were used for a factory balance.

And another thing you can feel the difference in high speed vibrations from an unbalanced and balanced crank pulley/dampener assembly. This is from my personal experience and in my opinion worth any effort to find a performance machine shop that can do balancing work. If the original poster is really in a pickle where-ever he is I can have his parts balanced for him if he wishes for the cost and shipping fees.

Vernon

My comments were based on information that is supposed to be direct from Ford, that on the ORIGINAL balancer, the pins are added to put the final balance on the entire rotating assembly, not just the pulley. Once you change any part of the rotating assembly, then the position of the pins is no longer accurate, making them useless. It is my understanding that if you buy a replacement HB from Ford, you get a -0- balance assembly whereas the original one on the car should be balanced to compliment the rest of the motor.

I have not tested this theory, and so I may be out to lunch. Speaking of which, where's my sandwich?!?

thanks for the info guys. i have an 89 5-speed, so did ford use the same balacing method as in 95? unfortunately here in beaumont CA i havent had much luck finding a machine shop that can balance my pulley. since i have a new BHJ damper, i might as well get a brand new pulley, prefferably not ford. does ASP make a crank pulley that is not an underdrive pulley for an 89? if not, does anyone know who does and where i can get one?

Hmmm Dave, that could be so but I doubt we would ever fact that one out due to the rate these cars toss dampers. In any case I recommend balancing any new combination of damper and pully.

Tondog, the dampeners were redesinged stronger in '94 and the crank trigger changed to a high frequincy type. The early dampeners crack and the later ones while stronger eventually wear out the elastomer allowing the inertia ring to start drifting back until it contacts the front cover. Either way they are disposable. The balancing methods were the same as far as I know. The ASP pullys are nuetral as confirmed by one of my machinests again today. I've used ASP's full underdrive set (crank, water pump, and alternater) on my '91 for years now but on this '95 which is an automatic with all the luxerys, a Jerry Chip that keeps the fan running a lot, and a high powered stereo I am also worried about that 950 RPM full charge rating. I am going to try using the crank pully alone to gain the majority of the HP benefit due to substantial crank wieght reduction but retain the original alternator pully so there won't be as much of an underdrive on it. If you use both the crank and alternator pullys it would be 25%. I'm not sure what it will be with the ASP crank and factory alternator pullys but it will be in-between the two rates anyways. This is my plan as I will have to see if there is a belt availiable that will fit that combination. I haven't decided about the water pump pully yet, I'm not afraid of it undercooling but this car runs cool so I'm not ready to screw that up either. It may turn out that the water pump pully may help me to find a matching belt size and that would determine whether it gets used on the '95. I'm not sure when I will get to this, sometime this month but I will post the result.

Vernon