Whats so hard about power steering pulley?

blksc

Registered User
Argg!

Trying to install my powersteering pulley according to the crappy harbor freight instructions and it got the pulley about half way on the shaft, but now when i turn it.. it just backs out and comes off... leaving the smaller screw inside the pump shaft.

Here what i do:

I take the smaller "installer" screw and screw it into the jackshaft bolt. Then I thread the pulley bod and washer onto the jackshaft screw, then screw the whole assembly into the pump shaft until it bottoms out. I then take a 1/2" socket with breaker bar and hold the end of the jackshaft bolt while i turn the puller/installer body.. but what happens is it gets reall tight.. then it breaks looks and falls off the "installer screw"

Is this the work of "fine chinese craftsmanship" or am i using this thing wrong:confused:
 
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Does the installer tool look like this one? Two pieces....one is the threaded piece and the other is the large nut in the center of the photo with the bearing.

The smaller diameter threads on the left 'A' go into the pump shaft.

Make sure the pump shaft is clean, with no nicks. if the pulley does not go on straight/square, stop, take it off and start over, making sure the shaft isn't damaged first.

The large nut with bearing in the middle 'B' would first be backed-out/threaded towards the medium sized nut/head on the right 'C' - then your pulley is placed over the end from the left 'A'. The back of the pulley that goes nearest the pump face would be facing to the left in the photo.

The small threads on the left end of the tool 'A' in the photo would then be screwed into the pump shaft until it stops. Turn it by using the medium nut/head on the right end 'C'.

Once it stops screwing in to the pulley shaft, center the pulley on the shaft, put a wrench on the large nut in the middle 'B' and turn it so that it and the bearing and the pulley move towards the pump.

When the pulley is flush with the end of the pump shaft and fully installed, the large nut and bearing 'B' will no longer turn/move towards the end of the pump shaft.

When this occurs, stop----you are done installing the pulley and you can remove the tool.

Turn the large nut in the middle 'B' backwards/out to release tension on the tool - then put a wrench on the medium sized nut/head end 'C' and back the tool out of the pulley shaft.

Don't fight or force the process. You can shrink the pulley and make the hole a bit larger by putting it in the freezer overnight....a measure only needed in unusual cases AFAIK.
 

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I then take a 1/2" socket with breaker bar and hold the end of the jackshaft bolt while i turn the puller/installer body.. but what happens is it gets reall tight.. then it breaks looks and falls off the "installer screw"

Is this the work of "fine chinese craftsmanship" or am i using this thing wrong:confused:

That is a problem with the harbor freight tool. Sounds like the casting for the outer part of the tool is deforming under the force and skipping threads on the center shaft. If the tool you have only has a washer, you should put some sort of high pressure lubricate on the washer to help reduce friction on turning the nut.

Auto parts stores usually have a lightly higher quality tool, or many even rent a high quality tool for doing that type of job.
 
Just go to your local hardware store and buy a good high grade bolt/nut in the pitch/diameter (i forget what it is) of the p/s shaft. Then get some washers and step up the the size you need. thread the bolt all the way, hold it with a wrench and start crankin away on the nut. Been doing it that way for years and it's never failed me.
 
I don't think the part is deforming. I have the same tool and I also found it difficult to get the pulley back on - especially after using the tool a few times.

The problem is, it takes a good amount of torque in the CW direction on nut B to get the pulley forced onto the shaft. But when you apply that CW torque, the pulley wants to spin. So you need to hold it in place. If you use a backup wrench on bolt head C, the force you apply in the CCW direction usually is enough to loosen bolt A so that the whole operation doesn't work.

My solution (not elegant, but effective) was to use a set of Vise-Grips clamped on the edge of the pulley, a backup wrench on C, and my main wrench on B. I held the Vise-Grips in one hand, let the backup wrench rest against the side of the battery, and turned the main wrench clockwise with my other hand. It took a good amount of grunt to get the pulley back on.

You may also be able to install the belt and let that friction aid you. But it sort of depends how far you have the pulley on already, because you don't want to force the pulley on crookedly.
 
You may also be able to install the belt and let that friction aid you. But it sort of depends how far you have the pulley on already, because you don't want to force the pulley on crookedly.

If you're having problems with the tool, just do what I suggested earlier with a regular bolt/nut/washers and then wrap the belt around the pulley and hold with your hand. Crank away on the nut and voila.
 
That is a problem with the harbor freight tool. Sounds like the casting for the outer part of the tool is deforming under the force and skipping threads on the center shaft. If the tool you have only has a washer, you should put some sort of high pressure lubricate on the washer to help reduce friction on turning the nut.

Auto parts stores usually have a lightly higher quality tool, or many even rent a high quality tool for doing that type of job.

I think Im going to rent one from Autozone and see if it helps. I almost set fire to my SC last night.. it was driving me nuts.
 
If you're having problems with the tool, just do what I suggested earlier with a regular bolt/nut/washers and then wrap the belt around the pulley and hold with your hand. Crank away on the nut and voila.

Yes, your option is option #2 if the rent a tool doesnt work. Thanks.
 
Make sure you get it threaded in good if you are using the tool .. Ive seen them strip the threads out completelyfrom not being screwed in far enough and then you need a new pump.

- Dan
 
If you're having problems with the tool, just do what I suggested earlier with a regular bolt/nut/washers and then wrap the belt around the pulley and hold with your hand. Crank away on the nut and voila.

Yes, I see that could work in some cases, but if the only thing keeping the pulley from rotating is the belt and your kung fu grip ... well, it wouldn't have worked for me. The pulley went on tight, even with anti-seize. And I cleaned up the shaft before I started, too.
 
Make sure you get it threaded in good if you are using the tool .. Ive seen them strip the threads out completelyfrom not being screwed in far enough and then you need a new pump.

- Dan

Ddubb -- I scrwed it in until it bottomed out in the pump shaft.. when i crank down on it.. the end thats not screwed into the pump shaft just pops loose, while the "installer" screw is still secure in the threads of the pump.

P.S.. do you have to hold the pulley itself while cranking down? that seems a bit off.. but I did notice that every time I tried to turn it my pulley moved and wondered if thats why its backing out the bolt..:confused:
 
I've had two press type power steering pully's give me problems. In one case the shaft was rough, so I took some fine grit emory cloth and cleaned up the shaft. Made the pulley go on good.

the second one the shaft was fine but it was just very tight. So I heated the center of the pulley with a mapp gas torch and then turned it onto the shaft.

It's a significant interference fit, and it takes strong hardware to turn the pulley back on, as well as get it off.
 
lol

i never made it on a SC but when i changed pulley to put a brand new pump in a f-150 i just drive the pulley with a good size box and hammer it down maybe its brutal but always worked :D
 
Wait.. so you have to put the half moon pieces even if you are installing the pulley? I thought they were only used for pulling the pulley off.

No, they're just for removal.

qc89sc said:
i never made it on a SC but when i changed pulley to put a brand new pump in a f-150 i just drive the pulley with a good size box and hammer it down maybe its brutal but always worked

Wow, that's taking a risk. You could ruin a pump that way. (Although you got away with it that time. :))
 
i never made it on a SC but when i changed pulley to put a brand new pump in a f-150 i just drive the pulley with a good size box and hammer it down maybe its brutal but always worked :D

Trust me.. I was almost to that point!
 
been through that same mess. if you're renting one from the parts store you will notice the metric size bolt you need is already partially stripped. been through four and they didn't have any more.
went down the road to a local garage and he gave me the correct metric bolt ( 12 mm i believe ) with a thick washer.
you don't need the wheel puller to install the p.s. pulley.
he informs me that they send one bolt and washer with every new p. s. pump he buys in the box.
that's how i got the one he gave me.
start the pulley on the shaft - squarely - then screw the waster bolt ~~~. on next, start cranking holding on to the pulley with your other hand.
i used an oil filter puller ( the one with the rubber strap ) to aid in this even though it may not be neccessary.
now get back in the ring and show that pump who's boss.
 
It was the tool

Went to AZ and rented their pulley installer and it went right on. Took less than 5 minutes.. Now i have to figure out how to keep my thermostat housing from leaking :rolleyes:
 
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