PDA

View Full Version : accumulator instalation



90'silversc
09-19-2009, 07:47 PM
just got the accumulator in the other day and before we try and put it in is there any tricks or anything special that needs to be done to switch them or is it pretty straighforward? thanks guys

KMT
09-19-2009, 11:23 PM
Good news is, you don't have to bleed the system when changing out the accumulator.

I recommend removing at least the driver's side cowling to help gain access, etc. You'll need the proper driver to engage the top of the unit (8mm?) - clean out that hole good first so you have proper purchase when turning.

Remove wipers, rubber trim, and driver side cowling (screws from top/corner and one horizontal inside) etc. first to give yourself more room to work...

Pay attention to these points:

• Be sure to bleed down/off any residual pressure before removing the old accumulator. It can take dozens of pumps on the brake pedal (key off of course) to get this done, so take this seriously. Wrap a towel you don't need around the base of the accumulator to catch any spray that may result from remaining pressurized fluid.

• Do not leave the system open and use care to not let any dirt/debris fall into the open port. Have the replacement accumulator, tools etc. ready to go.

• Be sure the replacement accumulator has a fresh brake fluid safe (EPDM) o-ring (Size: -111 (http://www.broadleyjames.com/o-rings-size-chart.html)) ...coat it with clean brake fluid before installing.

• Start it with your hands to be sure to properly engage the threads and do not force it. Tighten the replacement accumulator as tight as you can with normal tools. Do not over-torque. Some replacement accumulators don't have a tool purchase, so a strap wrench is your best friend in those cases.

• When the replacement is installed, fill the brake fluid reservoir near to the top with the correct fluid, replace the cap and turn the ignition key to run. It can take a surprising amount of brake fluid to fill an accumulator so have plenty on hand - don't let this procedure empty the reservoir. Wait for the motor to stop running and the light(s) to go out (1 minute or so?), indicating that pressure has built up and shut off the ignition. Check for any lights and if they don't go out stop...don't let the motor run too long to prohibit damage from overheating.

• Check for leaks and repeat the key on procedure to confirm the pressure is holding and building as normal...check for proper warning light operation again.

• Check the brake fluid level with key off and the unit charged....add or remove any fluid required to set the level at the indicated marks on the side of the reservoir.

• Test drive with caution until you feel the system is operating properly. Watch the level for a day or so and re-check for leaks etc. before enjoying your work.

Replacing an accumulator is a relatively straight forward procedure, esp. after doing it once. Just like any brake work, tho, it is important to use care in the process.

the-big-e
09-20-2009, 09:35 PM
That was a very good walk thru of the installation process....:D

nmcbchief
10-07-2010, 02:53 PM
Good news is, you don't have to bleed the system when changing out the accumulator.

I recommend removing at least the driver's side cowling to help gain access, etc. You'll need the proper driver to engage the top of the unit (8mm?) - clean out that hole good first so you have proper purchase when turning.

Remove wipers, rubber trim, cowling (screws from top and one horizontal inside) etc. first to give yourself more room to work...

Pay attention to these points:

Be sure to bleed down/off any residual pressure before removing the old accumulator. It can take dozens of pumps on the brake pedal (key off of course) to get this done, so take this seriously. Wrap a towel you don't need around the base of the accumulator to catch any spray that may result from remaining pressurized fluid.

Do not leave the system open and use care to not let any dirt/debris fall into the open port. Have the replacement accumulator, tools etc. ready to go.

Be sure the replacement accumulator has a fresh o-ring...coat it with clean brake fluid before installing.

Tighten the replacement accumulator as tight as you can with normal tools. Do not over-torque. Start it with your hands to be sure to properly engage the threads and do not force it.

When the replacement is installed, fill the brake fluid reservoir to the top with the correct fluid, replace the cap and turn the ignition key to run. It can take a surprising amount of brake fluid to fill an accumulator so have plenty on hand - don't let this procedure empty the reservoir. Wait for the motor to stop running and the light(s) to go out (1 minute or so?), indicating that pressure has built up and shut off the ignition. Check for any lights and if they don't go out stop...don't let the motor run too long to prohibit damage from overheating.

Check for leaks and repeat the key on procedure to confirm the pressure is holding and building as normal...check for proper warning light operation again.

Check the brake fluid level with key off and the unit charged....add or remove any fluid required to set the level at the indicated marks.

Test drive with caution until you feel the system is operating properly. Watch the level for a day or so and re-check for leaks etc. before enjoying your work.

Replacing an accumulator is a relatively straight forward procedure, esp. after doing it once. Just like any brake work, tho, it is important to use care in the process.

Just what I needed to know. I am very thankful to be on a site that helps as much as you all do!

nmcbchief
10-08-2010, 02:42 PM
That was too easy! Thanks for the help. You guys are the best!

hsommer
09-10-2013, 06:30 PM
This is good set of instructions. Very helpful for me.

It is important to use EPDM o-rings not the standard buna-n. They will last longer and seal better with brake fluid. I got mine from Mcmaster-carr.

An additional trick is to mark the windshield before removing the wipers so you can get them back in the same place and install them before turning the ignition back on. .

Kurt K
09-10-2013, 06:46 PM
An additional trick is to mark the windshield before removing the wipers so you can get them back in the same place and install them before turning the ignition back on. .
This isn't necessary if your car still has the plastic keyways for the wiper locations :) Of course, most don't.

CaifanSC
01-19-2018, 12:34 PM
This isn't necessary if your car still has the plastic keyways for the wiper locations :) Of course, most don't.

plastic keyways???? Don't think i recall seeing any...like evar. Any pix?

SuperCoupeDave
01-23-2018, 05:31 PM
Just did mine this last weekend. It was easy and I have good brakes for the first time in years.

Motorizer
02-18-2018, 12:10 AM
Where can I get an accumulator in Canada or USA?

KMT
02-18-2018, 12:14 AM
Where can I get an accumulator in Canada or USA?

http://spinningwheels-sc.com

Says out of stock, due late March, early April, contact Victor and ask if you can get on the list http://spinningwheels-sc.com/hydacaccumulatorballs.aspx

scottm9
02-26-2018, 08:19 PM
Hello I am working on a 1990 for a friend. I had the brake motor off and had fixed and cleaned up the mating surfaces and reused the square cut o ring. Of course it drips ever so slightly now. Does anyone know what size or part number I need for that? Also there is a junction block mounted a little ways below the booster assy for the rear brake line. It has a switch of sorts in the tee part of the block that is leaking also. Does anyone know a part number for this ? thanks everyone for your time. I can also be texted at 319.531.6399 scott

sam jones
02-27-2018, 01:13 AM
Good evening

Contact SuperCoupe Performance for new brake pressure switch replacement. https://www.supercoupeperformance.com/content/images/thumbs/0001465_pressure-sensor_300.jpeg


Check out the below posts for pump leaking.


http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?136849-Abs-pump-motor-FIXED!!!!!&highlight=abs+pump+leaking


http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?120724-Leaking-ABS-Pump-Motor



Good Luck.

CaifanSC
07-28-2018, 01:43 PM
Hey Ken,

I received two accumulator balls from Victor & Diane at spinning wheels. I think I have everything ready except the strap to tigten. What kind of strap did you use? I figure we need to get this tightened pretty good in pace so wondering what kind of strap will do the job. Somehow I have a hard time thinking that a regular rubber belt strap will be enough. Last time I did this I used an OEM accumulator ball so I had the hex key bolt to tighten. The ones from Victor don't have this.

KMT
07-28-2018, 01:53 PM
What kind of strap did you use?

The type that can remove oil filters. Don't go nuts, just tight enough it won't come loose on it's own later.

The ones that have a metal bar you can get a 1/2" socket extension into work for me.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GearWrench-3149-Nylon-Strap-Oil-Filter-Wrench/400484323431?epid=1620310943&hash=item5d3eb9d067%3Ag%3Ab70AAOSwxH1UF7LK&_sacat=0&_nkw=oil+folter+strap+wrench&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC2.A0.H0.Xoil+fo lter+strap+wrench.TRS0.TSS0

...as opposed to the ones you lever by hand, since there's not much room to work.

CaifanSC
07-30-2018, 06:59 PM
The type that can remove oil filters. Don't go nuts, just tight enough it won't come loose on it's own later.

The ones that have a metal bar you can get a 1/2" socket extension into work for me.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/GearWrench-3149-Nylon-Strap-Oil-Filter-Wrench/400484323431?epid=1620310943&hash=item5d3eb9d067%3Ag%3Ab70AAOSwxH1UF7LK&_sacat=0&_nkw=oil+folter+strap+wrench&_from=R40&rt=nc&_trksid=p2060353.m570.l1313.TR3.TRC2.A0.H0.Xoil+fo lter+strap+wrench.TRS0.TSS0

...as opposed to the ones you lever by hand, since there's not much room to work.

interesting...never seen this type before. Ordered!

Thanks Ken!

CaifanSC
07-30-2018, 07:18 PM
Be sure the replacement accumulator has a fresh brake fluid safe (EPDM) o-ring (Size: -111 (http://www.broadleyjames.com/o-rings-size-chart.html)) ...coat it with clean brake fluid before installing.

By the way, for the o ring size....is the -111 the "dash" number? I did a search at mcmaster carr and nothing came up when I tiped -111 (with the minus sign). I did get a hit with just 111, but I'm not sure if this is the same thing:

http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f226/Caifanito/mcmaster_zpsk14h61np.jpg~original (http://s48.photobucket.com/user/Caifanito/media/mcmaster_zpsk14h61np.jpg.html)

KMT
07-30-2018, 07:26 PM
Right, same thing. '-111' means 'dash 111', not minus 111. In this case it is a dash 100 series o-ring, #111. You did the right thing by searching for 111.