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View Full Version : the sc motors, well the 3.8 in general



whiteshadow
09-21-2009, 09:47 AM
can the main bearings be replaced w/o pulling the motor?

sinhumane
09-21-2009, 10:05 AM
if you want to drop the kmember.

rickbtbird
09-21-2009, 03:49 PM
Must be on a budget.. no engine stand and hoist?

sinhumane
09-21-2009, 03:59 PM
stands and hoists can be rented ;)

sts70004
09-21-2009, 08:38 PM
Yeah but dropping the K-member is free... I've never looked or have any idea how hard it'd be. Anyone ever done it?

bowez
09-21-2009, 08:49 PM
I thought of doing it but I don't see how you can get the top bearings out. It will be a whole lot easier to just pull the motor and pull the crank.

KMT
09-21-2009, 10:00 PM
I thought of doing it but I don't see how you can get the top bearings out.

We used to have a tool that would lock into an oil feed hole in the crank...spinning the crank would push the bearing around and out...got to have some way similar to get the new ones in as well, unless your real good with a hammer :)

Regul8r
09-21-2009, 10:51 PM
Yeah but dropping the K-member is free... I've never looked or have any idea how hard it'd be. Anyone ever done it?

Dropping the K-member is free...YES

The alignment after you put it all back together is not.
Renting a hoist to hold it up so you can take the K-Member out is not.
Broken parts from the motor moving around are not free.

You have just as much work to do the way you want to do it as you do if you took the motor out. Think, WHY do I need to change the bearings?
SPUN, which means SCARRED Crank maybe block and all those shavings up in the oil passages.

THATS just asking for a full pull and rebuild in a very short time... if not immediately. DOUBLE the time effort and money... Now which was cheaper?

decipha
09-21-2009, 11:33 PM
x2 if the bearings are worn chances are the crank is out of spec

its not hard or very costly at all to pull the engine put it on a stand flip it over
take the oil pan off, pull the harmonic balancer, timing cover, trans and flywheel (or flexplate for you autos) and unbolt the mains and rods.

then bring the crank to a reputable machine shop and have it mic'd
if its out by more than a few thousandths then you'll want to strip the block
and get her align honed

look at the main caps when you pull them off. If you see any black lines
on the cap or block thats a clean and clear indication that you were walking the crank.

btw...if your looking for a reputable machine shop in the new orleans area check out R&D (504)305-3203

decipha
09-21-2009, 11:39 PM
I agree with ya most the way here but no need for an alignment when dropping the k... the suspension stays intact

its quite easy actually, 8x 9/16 bollts IIRC the 13mm bolt on the steering joint
3x 15mm bolts IIRC holding the strut to the shock tower, 2x 13mm motor mount bolts, and 2x 8mm bolts holding misc wiring.

I yanked the K by myself in about 45 min to change my oil pan... question is though without a hoist how do you intend to support the engine?


Dropping the K-member is free...YES

The alignment after you put it all back together is not.
Renting a hoist to hold it up so you can take the K-Member out is not.
Broken parts from the motor moving around are not free.

You have just as much work to do the way you want to do it as you do if you took the motor out. Think, WHY do I need to change the bearings?
SPUN, which means SCARRED Crank maybe block and all those shavings up in the oil passages.

THATS just asking for a full pull and rebuild in a very short time... if not immediately. DOUBLE the time effort and money... Now which was cheaper?

sts70004
09-21-2009, 11:49 PM
Well I've never done it, but if you have to rent a hoist to support the engine anyway, I would guess removing the engine wouldn't be too hard. Does the transmission have to come out with the engine?

fturner
09-22-2009, 08:52 AM
I agree with ya most the way here but no need for an alignment when dropping the k... the suspension stays intact

its quite easy actually, 8x 9/16 bollts IIRC the 13mm bolt on the steering joint
3x 15mm bolts IIRC holding the strut to the shock tower, 2x 13mm motor mount bolts, and 2x 8mm bolts holding misc wiring.

I yanked the K by myself in about 45 min to change my oil pan... question is though without a hoist how do you intend to support the engine?

The k member itself needs to be ligned up when mounting it back on, and if you don't get that perfectly lined up the same as it was before when you tighten it up, you are back to getting an alignment done for the suspension or you'll have a car that will crab walk. That is why they made alignment holes in the k member as well as the main frame.

Fraser