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DLF
09-21-2009, 07:49 PM
First order of business, cut off the stupid ball connectors and weld some real flanges on these.

Second, off to Jet-Hot. :D

kenewagner
09-21-2009, 07:56 PM
First order of business, cut off the stupid ball connectors and weld some real flanges on these.

Second, off to JetHot. :D

Did you buy them new? Are you doing V band clamps?


Ken

Tim Groth
09-21-2009, 07:59 PM
Very nice - I'm jealous! You get these from SCP?

-Tim

Ryan A Harris
09-21-2009, 08:10 PM
What is the flange thickness? They look great, but I have to ask, is the only gain with the stainless is the longevity of the stainless?

DLF
09-21-2009, 09:05 PM
Did you buy them new? Are you doing V band clamps?


Ken

New. No, I'm going to use a 3-Bolt flange.

DLF
09-21-2009, 09:06 PM
Very nice - I'm jealous! You get these from SCP?

-Tim

Yup, special order.

DLF
09-21-2009, 09:15 PM
What is the flange thickness? They look great, but I have to ask, is the only gain with the stainless is the longevity of the stainless?

I don't know, I'll measure it tomorrow.

The only gain with stainless is the longevity, but not entirely the only reason I'm doing this.

I've grown quite tired of the ball joints on the mild steel Kooks that I have now. Rather than spend the time and money to redo them, and then get them recoated, I thought I'd solve the problem by changing the flanges on these, then get them coated, and hopefully never, ever, have to worry about it again.

And then sell my mild steel Kooks to partially finance the change.

Duffy Floyd
09-21-2009, 09:30 PM
Might want to consider Nitro-plate instead of Jet-Hot.

What did you get jacked for those headers?

DLF
09-21-2009, 09:51 PM
Might want to consider Nitro-plate instead of Jet-Hot.

What did you get jacked for those headers?

I've got the Jet-Hot Extreme Sterling on the SS Kooks I have in my LSC, so I was planning on doing the same on the SC. I'm also going to get my SS 3 1/2" and 4" intake piping done as well as all of the MP FMIC piping (which has begun to rust after 3 years).

I'll look into the Nitro-plate, have you used them?

9 bills (Vaseline not included) :eek:

Duffy Floyd
09-21-2009, 09:58 PM
Nitro-Plate is what I will be having done on my headers whose Jet-Hot Coating has failed. I have not personally used them yet but from the literature their corrosion resistance is higher which is a concern for those of us stuck with carbon steel headers.

9 bills huh????? Isn't that just great huh?????

the-big-e
09-21-2009, 10:04 PM
Who's doing your Nitro plating.....

DLF
09-21-2009, 10:06 PM
Nitro-Plate is what I will be having done on my headers whose Jet-Hot Coating has failed. I have not personally used them yet but from the literature their corrosion resistance is higher which is a concern for those of us stuck with carbon steel headers.

9 bills huh????? Isn't that just great huh?????

Yeah, same story, only game in town....

Duffy Floyd
09-21-2009, 10:08 PM
Eddie,


http://www.nitroplate.com/

Tim Groth
09-21-2009, 11:04 PM
Wow 9 bills...I'm not that jealous after all...:eek:

-Tim

DLF
09-22-2009, 03:29 PM
What is the flange thickness?

3/8" flange. And it looks like they've been milled flat.

Nettlesd
09-22-2009, 06:00 PM
9 bills (Vaseline not included) :eek:

9 one dollar bills? :D

They do look great.

XxSlowpokexX
09-22-2009, 06:05 PM
My kooks stainless long tubes have a three bolt flange:O)

DLF
09-22-2009, 06:11 PM
9 one dollar bills? :D

They do look great.

Jeez, I wish! I probably won't be able to walk for quite a while.....

DLF
09-22-2009, 06:13 PM
My kooks stainless long tubes have a three bolt flange:O)

Yeah, yeah, yeah....

Super XR7
09-22-2009, 06:43 PM
What series SS - 400 or 300?

Mike

DLF
09-22-2009, 07:27 PM
What series SS - 400 or 300?

Mike

304, I wouldn't have paid for 409.

Super XR7
09-22-2009, 08:10 PM
304, I wouldn't have paid for 409.

Good deal. I would have either.

Mike

Miller
09-22-2009, 09:31 PM
My kooks stainless long tubes have a three bolt flange:O)

with a tiny collector. boooooooo

Ryan A Harris
09-24-2009, 06:01 PM
Thanks for the measurement.

I just got off the phone with Pat at STEEDA.ca(905-693-1817) this shop is a Canadain distributor for KOOKS. I asked them to price me out a set of mids & full length headers for my 95 SC both in the stainlees & in mild steel. Here is what he told me.

Kooks only has 1 option for the supercoupe. They are priced at $879.00(canadian funds) and if I want the jet hot coating add $250-$300. They also offer down tubes with cats, and a cat back system that is 2-1/2 to 3 to 2-1/2. The full system cost is $2139.00(again canadian funds).

The headers are still available with or with out the ERG tube. The primaries are 1-5/8, and the collectors have the ball joint. These can be ordering and in the store in 5-7 days.

Just figured I'd pass along what I learned today.

DLF
09-24-2009, 06:40 PM
FWIW, My primaries are 1 3/4".

XxSlowpokexX
09-24-2009, 06:49 PM
with a tiny collector. boooooooo

2.5 "..WHich happens to be bigger then 2 inch hahaha. Having a 3" is nce but unless your running open headers its not needed

DLF
09-24-2009, 07:09 PM
2.5 "..WHich happens to be bigger then 2 inch hahaha. Having a 3" is nce but unless your running open headers its not needed

Gentlemen, Please measure your equipment in your own thread :D

XxSlowpokexX
09-24-2009, 07:27 PM
Get yer mind outta the gutter! WHy dont you just show off your exhaust again to make us all shut up eh?

DLF
09-24-2009, 07:30 PM
Get yer mind outta the gutter! WHy dont you just show off your exhaust again to make us all shut up eh?

Gutter? :confused:

Whatever do you mean?

And, I dont think it's possible to quiet you! :)

S_Mazza
09-25-2009, 09:52 AM
Doug,

If you do cut off the ball flanges without total destruction, I would be interested in one to use for a resonator delete on my car. Could get the ball flange kit from Flowmaster, but it's over $75 for a pair, and I only need one, etc. Let me know.

Anyway, those headers do look good! That looks like a part that deserves to be on the SC!

CMac89
09-25-2009, 09:56 AM
You should have gotten long tubes. You would have gotten three bolt flanges and a better header.

Regardless, it looks good!

DLF
09-25-2009, 12:14 PM
Doug,

If you do cut off the ball flanges without total destruction, I would be interested in one to use for a resonator delete on my car. Could get the ball flange kit from Flowmaster, but it's over $75 for a pair, and I only need one, etc. Let me know.

Anyway, those headers do look good! That looks like a part that deserves to be on the SC!

I'm sure we could come to an arrangement ;)

DLF
09-25-2009, 12:16 PM
You should have gotten long tubes. You would have gotten three bolt flanges and a better header.

Regardless, it looks good!

Yeah, but then I'd have to redo my exhaust. Not interested in doing that.

DLF
09-25-2009, 01:47 PM
Doug,

If you do cut off the ball flanges without total destruction, I would be interested in one to use for a resonator delete on my car. Could get the ball flange kit from Flowmaster, but it's over $75 for a pair, and I only need one, etc. Let me know.

Anyway, those headers do look good! That looks like a part that deserves to be on the SC!

I also have these Bassani pieces left over. 2 1/2" 409 SS with chrome plated flanges.

Send me a PM if you're interested.

XxSlowpokexX
09-25-2009, 09:53 PM
Hey Doug,,Anyway I can can con you into making an exhaust in the future for a certain someone? Wouldnt be anytime soon...But just a thought

DLF
09-25-2009, 10:31 PM
Hey Doug,,Anyway I can can con you into making an exhaust in the future for a certain someone? Wouldnt be anytime soon...But just a thought

Anything's possible! $$$$$$ :D

Flex
09-25-2009, 11:30 PM
Doug,

How much for the SS flanges if Steewie don't want?

9 bills.....:eek: My XXXXXXXX hurts up here in Canada.

DLF
09-25-2009, 11:35 PM
Doug,

How much for the SS flanges if Steewie don't want?

9 bills.....:eek: My ~~~~~~~ hurts up here in Canada.

LOL :D

He bought them....

Flex
09-25-2009, 11:43 PM
Steve you ~~~~~~. You never even put on my inlet yet. Why the hell did you steal my flanges.

S_Mazza
09-28-2009, 10:02 AM
D'oh! Sorry, man! I didn't know you were in the hunt. Buying the parts is easy; putting them on is where I hit delays!!! ;)

Flex
09-28-2009, 11:54 AM
On the weekend we finally swapped the tranny in my SC. Also installed my Walbro GSS342 pump.

Installed my brother's old Force II system on my LX and swapped in the SC's tank/pump into it. When we dropped the tank, we saw that the wiring had caught fire and burned the rubber to a crisp.:eek:

XxSlowpokexX
09-28-2009, 12:11 PM
I had a short in that location on my old 89 SC....Couldnt figure out what was wrong with my car for months,,My headers would actually glow at some points. Being it wasnt consistent it was hard to track down till it was totally gone

S_Mazza
09-28-2009, 12:28 PM
That's some scary stuff. I saw that the fumes or heat had damaged the connector on my car until it just crumbled when I took the pump out. I replaced the pigtail and it's fine now. But that raised my eyebrows for sure!

DLF
10-08-2009, 03:30 PM
Well, this is a lot closer to how they should have been made in the first place.

First, to the welder (I only have a MIG, and I want these TIG'd), and then off to Jet-Hot.

kenewagner
10-08-2009, 04:08 PM
Well, this is a lot closer to how they should have been made in the first place.

First, to the welder (I only have a MIG, and I want these TIG'd), and then off to Jet-Hot.

Those are some big heavy looking flanges. Are they threaded? What mates up to them? I would like to see a shot of the collector opening. I am looking at V band clamps at the moment. Regardless anything beats the original connection

Ken

Flex
10-08-2009, 04:09 PM
Collectors are too short Doug. Your overall length should have been equal to the original.

DLF
10-08-2009, 04:18 PM
Those are some big heavy looking flanges. Are they threaded? What mates up to them? I would like to see a shot of the collector opening. I am looking at V band clamps at the moment. Regardless anything beats the original connection

Ken

1/2" Stainless Steel, not threaded. I have another pair of the same flanges to weld to my exhaust.

Got them HERE (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2-2-5-Exhaust-Collector-Stainless-Steel-Flange_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem5883a8eb2bQQitem Z380166007595QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fA ccessories) on eBay, I've bought several things from this seller, always shipped quick, no problems.

p.s. He also sells mild steel flanges.

DLF
10-08-2009, 04:20 PM
Collectors are too short Doug. Your overall length should have been equal to the original.

Those are the original collectors, minus the balls ;)

My downtubes are straight for a few inches at the connection, it won't matter to the exhaust that the straight tubing is after the flanges.

DLF
10-08-2009, 04:39 PM
I would like to see a shot of the collector opening.

Ask, and you shall receive....

Obviously, not yet welded, which I'm going to have done on the inside, rather than on the outside, of the flanges.

Once the stock ball connectors are cut off, what's left is about 3/8" of 2 1/2" tube, a perfect fit for the flanges, with just a bit of persuasion :D from the dead-blow mallet.

DLF
10-09-2009, 03:34 PM
THIS is why I drive an hour to get the ex-NASA welder to do my stuff. :D

DLF
11-17-2009, 03:21 PM
Back from Jet-Hot (finally).

Now, if I could only get them to jump on the car. :D

DLF
11-23-2009, 06:08 PM
On the car. :D

Now to make some changes to my downtubes. :cool:

thunderkid84
11-23-2009, 06:26 PM
they look real nice. new studs and bolts too.

mind posting the part numbers for the studs and bolts ?

DLF
11-23-2009, 06:40 PM
they look real nice. new studs and bolts too.

mind posting the part numbers for the studs and bolts ?

Thanks!

The 4 SS studs I used are ARP 400-8004 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-400-8004/). If I had it to do over again, I'd use ARP 400-8005 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-400-8005/), which are a 1/4" longer.

The locking SS bolts are Percy's 21008 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-21008/).

DLF
11-23-2009, 06:51 PM
And I used Remflex Gaskets (http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=105351&highlight=remflex).

XxSlowpokexX
11-24-2009, 01:19 PM
very nice Doug very nice

baer198
11-24-2009, 01:27 PM
Man those look good.:D

DLF
12-08-2009, 01:27 PM
Finally got my downtubes done, getting them TIG welded tomorrow. :D

kenewagner
12-08-2009, 02:22 PM
Thanks!

The 4 SS studs I used are ARP 400-8004 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-400-8004/). If I had it to do over again, I'd use ARP 400-8005 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-400-8005/), which are a 1/4" longer.

The locking SS bolts are Percy's 21008 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PHP-21008/).

I like the looks of the hardware. A bit pricey but quality stuff. Almost 60 bucks for the bolts. Why did you use a stud or studs in place of the bolts?

Ken

DLF
12-08-2009, 03:11 PM
I like the looks of the hardware. A bit pricey but quality stuff. Almost 60 bucks for the bolts. Why did you use a stud or studs in place of the bolts?

Ken

The 4 studs are needed to fasten the heater hose brackets, two on each side.

DLF
12-11-2009, 02:27 PM
Finally :)

kenewagner
12-11-2009, 02:35 PM
Finally :)

Very nicely done. Very much like what I have done except I used V band clamps

Ken

nickleman60
12-11-2009, 03:06 PM
Why do you have 2 extra bungs, 1 in and 1 behind the o2's, on each side? I'm going to have 1 extra on each side for a wideband sensor and for tuning purposes.

the-big-e
12-11-2009, 03:10 PM
I was thinking the same thing.....

Very nice job....

I'm looking to do the same thing.....

Any issues with the EEC reading the o2 sensors in that location....

DLF
12-11-2009, 06:18 PM
Why do you have 2 extra bungs, 1 in and 1 behind the o2's, on each side? I'm going to have 1 extra on each side for a wideband sensor and for tuning purposes.

I don't use the bungs in the headers themselves, as they're only in one tube, so the extra bungs in the downtubes are for my wideband.

DLF
12-11-2009, 06:19 PM
I was thinking the same thing.....

Very nice job....

I'm looking to do the same thing.....

Any issues with the EEC reading the o2 sensors in that location....

Thanks!

I've had my O2's in the downtubes since 1999, no problems.

baer198
04-25-2010, 05:40 PM
May we get a sound clip ?

DLF
04-25-2010, 06:50 PM
May we get a sound clip ?

Sure, the next day it isn't raining here, I'll see what I can do. ;)

DLF
04-27-2010, 04:27 PM
The quality isn't very good, but here it is:

Sound Clip (http://home.comcast.net/~dlfraleigh/Movies/SCExhaust.wmv)

idle / 3K / idle / 5K+ / idle

V6's don't sound nearly as good as V8's :(

XxSlowpokexX
04-28-2010, 12:00 AM
I have so many things to do to my car before I think of putting my SS kooks in....Errgghh

CMac89
04-28-2010, 01:28 AM
Coating stainless steel headers is like painting a gold, diamond watch black. Why waste the money on the gold and diamonds whenever all you wanted was a black watch?

Regardless, it's very nice work!

baer198
04-28-2010, 02:26 AM
Sounds good for a v6 I have heard a few of them on youtube, and few of them sound like a Honda lol , what type of mufflers are you running ?

DLF
04-28-2010, 10:21 AM
Coating stainless steel headers is like painting a gold, diamond watch black. Why waste the money on the gold and diamonds whenever all you wanted was a black watch?

Regardless, it's very nice work!

Thanks!

But bad analogy. A better one would be; "Why coat sterling silver flatware?" The answer is; "To keep it from tarnishing".

Stainless Steel isn't "stainless", and will tarnish and discolor rapidly.

So, appearance, and the reduction in underhood temps (http://www.jet-hot.com/techinfo.html) is the reason I coated my headers.

DLF
04-28-2010, 10:24 AM
Sounds good for a v6 I have heard a few of them on youtube, and few of them sound like a Honda lol , what type of mufflers are you running ?

Borla ProXS, but if I had it to do over, I'd go with MagnaFlow.

CMac89
04-28-2010, 11:41 PM
Thanks!

But bad analogy. A better one would be; "Why coat sterling silver flatware?" The answer is; "To keep it from tarnishing".

Stainless Steel isn't "stainless", and will tarnish and discolor rapidly.

So, appearance, and the reduction in underhood temps (http://www.jet-hot.com/techinfo.html) is the reason I coated my headers.

Ummmmm, the analogy still seems legit.

The black watch was mild steel tubing and the gold, diamond watch was the stainless steel. Save the money/weight, get mild steel, and then have it coated.

I've had uncoated 321 SS headers for about 8 years, now. A little color changing doesn't hurt anything. The color change only happens within the distance of the flame travel, anyways.

DLF
04-28-2010, 11:44 PM
Save the money/weight, get mild steel, and then have it coated.

I've had coated mild steel headers, they rust anyway.

XxSlowpokexX
04-29-2010, 12:01 AM
Stainless can rust as well..But I do agree on coating stainless to keep heat in..Its all about function before form

Brad2296
04-29-2010, 07:42 PM
Stainless can rust as well..But I do agree on coating stainless to keep heat in..Its all about function before form

Stainless will only rust if the surface has been ground on, welded on, or scratched by material that is non stainless. Small particles of the carbon steel will embed into the stainless, therefore making the stainless rust.