Tamper Proof Torx bolt and front timing cover...

Deep6

Registered User
Folks,

I need some answers about the Front timing cover. I'm still in the weekend process of replacing this item, So far I've gotten everything out of the way that I can think of and I have removed the bolts for the timing cover. It moves a little bit but basically doesn't budge.

I did get the allen head bolt behind the Oil Cooler. However, I have NOT removed my camshaft synchronizer shaft. Is this holding me back? I don't see how it could. How then, do I remove the tamper proof torx bit. I can't get anything in there because the S/C snout is in the way. It's saturday night and I'd like to finish this job tommarow if possible. I didn't remove my crank shaft positioning sensor. Do I need to? The weather is getting colder and I've been without my bird for 3 weeks now....

BTW is there a web site for the BHJ balancer? I think I might replace that in the future?
 
Front timing cover

You'll have to at least loosen the supercharger to get to that tamperproof bolt. After you get to that bolt, replace it with a regular hex head, that way you can access it with a regular open end wrench. As far as the timing cover goes, after you've removed all the bolts including the allen bolt you will have to remove the front oil pan bolts and drop it down enough to free up the front cover. It should come off with a little prying.
 
Huh...

I've spoken with a mechanic whose done this job before, he didn't say anything about having to drop the oil pan?? Nor did he say anything about having to remove the supercharger....

If that is the case, then this job went from being a PITA (pain in the a$$) to a RFB (Royal F@cking B!tch)

I did remove the bolts that hold the oil pan to the front cover.

What I want to know is, Do I HAVE to remove the synchronizer to remove the cover? yes or no?

And if I have to definatly remove the synchronizer, then where do I get the damn tamper proof torx bit? I have to remove it first to replace it with a suitable replacement....

Can I get the tool in the auto parts store, or am I forced to get it from fraud errr. Ford?
 
Update....

Well,

Here is what I did. I bought the tamper proof torx bits and I loosened my S/C and throttle body cables/braket. With me standing under the hood I was able to get *Just* enough movement from the S/C to get a straight extension down there to loosen the Torx bit. Major PITA.


With some gentle prying on several points I was able to finally slide the cover off. I had to loosen the braket that holds the A/C compressor and remove my J/S pulley. I pivoted that out of the way enough to clearance the synchronizer assy.

I got the whole thing off, and Now I how to scrape the block down to clean the old gasket off. I stuffed a rag in the oil pan as much as I could.

In the new gasket kit, I've got new studs, how the hell do I get the old ones off. They are just round on the ends? But I know they are threaded in the block. There has to be a way to turn them....

Any tips at this point? I hope to complete re-assy this upcoming weekend, I've been without my bird too long.... I'm suffering withdrawl.
 
I have never done this job, but to get the studs off you
might try and put two nuts on the end. Then when you turn the one nut, it will snug itself up tight against the other nut and you should be able to back the studs out. (If they are threaded and if there's room). Just an idea.
 
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I've never heard of that before...

I would think that putting two nuts up there that if I turned the one on the back side, it would just turn the one in front......
 
As you turn the one on the back, if the front one starts to move, hold it with a socket until they lock themselves together. Give it a try and let me know.

Also: If you don't care if you destroy these studs, since you have new ones, you could also just use the old vise grips and clamp down hard on the threads to back it out.

Why not just leave the old ones there?
 
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My whizbang mechanic told me...

That the main cause for the front timing cover gasket failure is the stud that's on the water passage side, eventually corrodes and "pushes" the cover slightly forward. This creates the gap in the gasket and eventually the leak.

Instead of selling me the parts individually, he had a "front seal kit" that contained the gasket for the timing cover, the water pump gasket, Front crank seal, 3 studs and another stud for the water pump.

Then he sold me a new crank bolt, but the old crank bolt that was replaced in Aug 2001 with the balancer at the time, looks to be bigger. The hex head looks to be like 1mm bigger.... Could be a different style., though.

I trust the mechanic since he owns 2 SC's himself and knows them inside and out.
 
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