Whats wrong with this picture

STLSC95

Registered User
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what does the clutch ware look like, is there alot of clutch dust in the bell housing? if both of those are good then i would have to agree with everyone else that its ok and perhaps you got into it a few times during its break in period. if it makes you feel better then mic it and see if there is any warped spots. what kind of clutch is that btw? if its spec then ya that could happen from there extreme clamping force.
 
You can get hot spots that fast if you tend to slip the clutch alot on take off. Slippage and a heavy car can be brutal on a new clutch.
 
Is it normal to have hot spots on only one side of the pressure plate after only 1k miles?

how would you get any hot spots on the other side of the pressure plate? Or do you mean the flywheel has an even color?

The pressure plate is the first item to contact the clutch disk. it then pushes the clutch disk into the flywheel. Usually the flywheel will see more examples of heat, but that's neither here nor there without some sort of issue. excess heat in the flywheel or pressure plate are not a cause, they are a symptom.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm
 
I purchased the 95 Super Coupe earlier this year. It grinded 2nd and 5th when shifting so I decided in June to have the transmission rebuilt. $1,300 later the trans was rebuilt and I decided before installing, to get the flywheel turned (4/1000) and purchase a SPEC Stage I clutch from SCP. I made sure to break the clutch in carefully but realized soon that the clutch did not disengage properly between shifts. I drove the car to the transmission shop that rebuilt the trans to take a look. They determined that the clutch was defective and I mailed it back to SPEC. Spec checked the clutch out and determined that it was perfectly fine. It sucks, because I'm stuck in the middle and have all ready had to pay $400 extra to have them pull the tranny and now it looks like I'm just going to install a stock Sacks clutch from Car Quest.
 
Ok, first off, the clutch looks fine.

Second, ask the tranny shop if they shimmed the slave cylinder after they cut down the flywheel. If not that can be the reason the why the clutch doesn't want to completely disengage. Have them do it.

Third, did you replace the clutch master and slave cylinder? If not, do it.

Fourth, bleeding the clutch system on these cars can be more frustrating then bleeding a newly rebuilt brake system. Make sure they did it right cause the smallest amount of air will not let the clutch work properly.
 
The slave cylinder was replaced, the tranny shop said the master cylinder was fine and SPEC said I should not need to shim the slave cylinder. Very good advice
 
Then I would just bleed it really good. I found that the easiest way for me is to let it gravity bleed for a half hour to an hour then bleed it like the book says a few times.

Just sounds like the slave cylinder isn't traveling far enough to release it properly.
 
Also make sure that the clutch disc slides freely on the transmission input shaft. I've seen some SPEC discs that bind and required significant work to move smoothly.

Your problem is all within the bellhousing area. It helps to have someone who really knows how to set one of these up do it.

Yes, it is also possible to have air in the system. It is self bleeding, but only to a point. Sometimes you just have to bleed it.
 
i dont think this is your problem but your engine might be making to much power for the stage 1. again i dont think this is the case but if it is then step up to the stage 2 or get a centerforce duel friction.
i am agreeing with others that its more likely that your slave wasnt bled correctly. also there is a big chance that you need to shim/reshim the slave.
 
Regardless of what SPEC says....shim the slave cylinder. Also...unless you are the one and only owner of the car there is a chance the flywheel has already been cut one or more times. Each time it is cut the slave has less potential to be able to disengage the clutch fully. BTDT.....aftermarket flywheel was 20 thousandths thin compared to OEM flywheel. Was enough to burn out the 1st gear blocker before I got it fixed.
 
I'm shocked that SPEC would say you don't need to shim the slave, and unfortunately not shocked a transmission shop wouldn't figure it out.

There is a mechanical tolerance that allows for proper clutch pedal position with respect to release and grip, which is tied directly to the relation of the slave cylinder and the pressure plate. A good transmission shop is aware of this, and thus would check dimensions after a report of a problem like you had, Certainly before blaming a pressure plate or clutch disk. Spec as well should have told you about this. I'd call up spec and talk to someone about their wasting your time, as well as the transmission shop.
 
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