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STLSC95
10-06-2009, 03:08 PM
http://photos-f.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc1/hs255.snc1/10222_1118231082607_1431909161_30285437_2249763_n. jpg

Hock
10-06-2009, 06:43 PM
Nothing besides a few hot spots.

supercharged95
10-06-2009, 07:40 PM
looks like you need to sweep your garage floor

specops_SC
10-06-2009, 09:15 PM
could just be the lighting doing tricks but it looks warped. ???

Moses

STLSC95
10-06-2009, 09:55 PM
Is it normal to have hot spots on only one side of the pressure plate after only 1k miles?

RedSC93
10-06-2009, 09:57 PM
looks like you need to sweep your garage floor

I feed off sarcasm :)

Tony8470
10-06-2009, 10:04 PM
Looks good to me

slowpoke
10-07-2009, 12:35 AM
what does the clutch ware look like, is there alot of clutch dust in the bell housing? if both of those are good then i would have to agree with everyone else that its ok and perhaps you got into it a few times during its break in period. if it makes you feel better then mic it and see if there is any warped spots. what kind of clutch is that btw? if its spec then ya that could happen from there extreme clamping force.

None2Slow
10-07-2009, 01:28 AM
You can get hot spots that fast if you tend to slip the clutch alot on take off. Slippage and a heavy car can be brutal on a new clutch.

seawalkersee
10-07-2009, 03:50 AM
Lets start with a different queston...why did you pull it? You havin tranny issues?

SWS

Mike8675309
10-07-2009, 08:25 AM
Is it normal to have hot spots on only one side of the pressure plate after only 1k miles?

how would you get any hot spots on the other side of the pressure plate? Or do you mean the flywheel has an even color?

The pressure plate is the first item to contact the clutch disk. it then pushes the clutch disk into the flywheel. Usually the flywheel will see more examples of heat, but that's neither here nor there without some sort of issue. excess heat in the flywheel or pressure plate are not a cause, they are a symptom.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/clutch.htm

STLSC95
10-07-2009, 11:22 AM
I purchased the 95 Super Coupe earlier this year. It grinded 2nd and 5th when shifting so I decided in June to have the transmission rebuilt. $1,300 later the trans was rebuilt and I decided before installing, to get the flywheel turned (4/1000) and purchase a SPEC Stage I clutch from SCP. I made sure to break the clutch in carefully but realized soon that the clutch did not disengage properly between shifts. I drove the car to the transmission shop that rebuilt the trans to take a look. They determined that the clutch was defective and I mailed it back to SPEC. Spec checked the clutch out and determined that it was perfectly fine. It sucks, because I'm stuck in the middle and have all ready had to pay $400 extra to have them pull the tranny and now it looks like I'm just going to install a stock Sacks clutch from Car Quest.

Hock
10-07-2009, 11:45 AM
Ok, first off, the clutch looks fine.

Second, ask the tranny shop if they shimmed the slave cylinder after they cut down the flywheel. If not that can be the reason the why the clutch doesn't want to completely disengage. Have them do it.

Third, did you replace the clutch master and slave cylinder? If not, do it.

Fourth, bleeding the clutch system on these cars can be more frustrating then bleeding a newly rebuilt brake system. Make sure they did it right cause the smallest amount of air will not let the clutch work properly.

STLSC95
10-07-2009, 12:01 PM
The slave cylinder was replaced, the tranny shop said the master cylinder was fine and SPEC said I should not need to shim the slave cylinder. Very good advice

Hock
10-07-2009, 12:09 PM
Then I would just bleed it really good. I found that the easiest way for me is to let it gravity bleed for a half hour to an hour then bleed it like the book says a few times.

Just sounds like the slave cylinder isn't traveling far enough to release it properly.

STLSC95
10-07-2009, 12:19 PM
I'll keep you guys up to date on my progress

XR7 Dave
10-07-2009, 02:38 PM
Also make sure that the clutch disc slides freely on the transmission input shaft. I've seen some SPEC discs that bind and required significant work to move smoothly.

Your problem is all within the bellhousing area. It helps to have someone who really knows how to set one of these up do it.

Yes, it is also possible to have air in the system. It is self bleeding, but only to a point. Sometimes you just have to bleed it.

slowpoke
10-07-2009, 02:39 PM
i dont think this is your problem but your engine might be making to much power for the stage 1. again i dont think this is the case but if it is then step up to the stage 2 or get a centerforce duel friction.
i am agreeing with others that its more likely that your slave wasnt bled correctly. also there is a big chance that you need to shim/reshim the slave.

Duffy Floyd
10-07-2009, 05:34 PM
Regardless of what SPEC says....shim the slave cylinder. Also...unless you are the one and only owner of the car there is a chance the flywheel has already been cut one or more times. Each time it is cut the slave has less potential to be able to disengage the clutch fully. BTDT.....aftermarket flywheel was 20 thousandths thin compared to OEM flywheel. Was enough to burn out the 1st gear blocker before I got it fixed.

Mike8675309
10-08-2009, 11:00 PM
I'm shocked that SPEC would say you don't need to shim the slave, and unfortunately not shocked a transmission shop wouldn't figure it out.

There is a mechanical tolerance that allows for proper clutch pedal position with respect to release and grip, which is tied directly to the relation of the slave cylinder and the pressure plate. A good transmission shop is aware of this, and thus would check dimensions after a report of a problem like you had, Certainly before blaming a pressure plate or clutch disk. Spec as well should have told you about this. I'd call up spec and talk to someone about their wasting your time, as well as the transmission shop.

STLSC95
10-09-2009, 11:35 AM
I wish I would have done more homework before going down this road. I installed the SPEC clutch myself with no shim for the slave cylinder. After it was not fully disengaging, I brought the entire vehicle to the same transmission shop that rebuilt my transmission back in May. They told me quote, "the clutch is too stiff and is not fully disengaging." They recommended I either send the clutch back to SPEC, or buy a shock LUK or equivalent clutch to throw in there. After sending the clutch back, SPEC said the clutch was fine. Not knowing about different "shimming options", I decided to pay an additional $300 and have the transmission shop install a brand new factory clutch. I should be picking up the car either today or Monday. I appreciate everyone's advice. It is unfortunate that I've had to spend so much money on this project. I originally removed and installed the transmission myself, but with little time left in the season and an upcoming Engineering test I'm preparing for, I decided to pay the shop to make it right. Total Prices... rebuilt tranny: $1,300...SPEC clutch: $250 ... removal and install: $400... stock clutch: $300. So all in all, $2,250 for all this transmission stuff, God I hope it works this time!

Dirtyd0g
10-09-2009, 11:39 AM
At the shop I used to work for we had a flywheel grinder and did flywheels for local shops. We kept crank shims in stock they are available in .055 and .100 thickness. We once had some .020 but we used them all up and never could get anymore. Use of the .055 was common. Shimming the slave on these sounds much easier. Looking at the size I would think leftover rearend shims would work.
Call me crazy I actually machined a .020 step in the flywheel on my truck for extra hold. Now I found a larger clutch for it and cut it flat because there is no extra space left anymore.
Alan

Mike8675309
10-09-2009, 11:11 PM
I wish I would have done more homework before going down this road. I installed the SPEC clutch myself with no shim for the slave cylinder. After it was not fully disengaging, I brought the entire vehicle to the same transmission shop that rebuilt my transmission back in May. They told me quote, "the clutch is too stiff and is not fully disengaging."

See, that would have been a red flag for me. What does too stiff have to do with fully disengaging? Obviously they have not worked with a variety of clutches, and instead work mostly with OEM style. I'm sorry you had to go through this. It's one of the reasons why I do a lot of work myself, and if I have anyone do the work I try to make sure they really know what they are doing. I tend to bug them.

Personally, I'd question the level of detail they put into rebuilding that transmission, if they didn't even take the time to pop the inspection hole and witness the movement of the slave, documenting how far it moves, and once pulling the pressure plate, testing how far it needs to move for full disengagement. That would have shown them the need for shimming the slave cylinder.

STLSC95
10-16-2009, 04:07 PM
Other than SPEC, is there ANY OEM style clutch available for the 94-95 SC? My poor car is STILL at the tyranny shop and after six (6) clutch attempts, nothing fits properly on the stock 94-95 flywheel. I haven't driven my car in over a month. This car is turning into a nightmare!

90blkbrd
10-16-2009, 04:19 PM
A Centerforce Dual Friction is ~$325. But from reading the thread I don't think a different clutch will solve anything.

STLSC95
10-16-2009, 04:20 PM
SFDF is only for the 89 to 93 birds

ricardoa1
10-16-2009, 04:23 PM
Other than SPEC, is there ANY OEM style clutch available for the 94-95 SC? My poor car is STILL at the tyranny shop and after six (6) clutch attempts, nothing fits properly on the stock 94-95 flywheel. I haven't driven my car in over a month. This car is turning into a nightmare!

They need to shim it You have to tell them that. If you remove from the flywheel they need to make up for it at the slave via the mounting holes.

All the clutches will do the same thing if you dont get it right. Return the which ever clutch you can to recoup the money. and SHIM SHIM SHIM.
They need to bleed it correctly then.

94-95 flywheels use different hardware to bolt down the clutch, make sure they are using the correct hardware.

90blkbrd
10-16-2009, 04:35 PM
SFDF is only for the 89 to 93 birds

I beg to differ. You can run a CFDF on a 94-95. It just means your are using a 11" clutch on a 11.5" flywheel.

STLSC95
10-16-2009, 04:48 PM
Doesn't the 89-93 clutches have a slightly different mounting pattern?

ricardoa1
10-16-2009, 04:59 PM
Read this thread. Post 27 will give you all the details
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93182&highlight=aluminum+flywheel+clutch+early

STLSC95
10-16-2009, 05:10 PM
They need to shim it You have to tell them that.

Shim the slave or the flywheel?

ricardoa1
10-16-2009, 05:27 PM
Shim the slave or the flywheel?


You need to shim the slave at the two mounting points. You use shimming washers between the slave and the trans housing to get it done.

STLSC95
10-16-2009, 05:56 PM
If you shim the flywheel, will it solve the same problem by chance?

ricardoa1
10-16-2009, 06:15 PM
If you shim the flywheel, will it solve the same problem by chance?

I dont advise it but you accomplish the same thing.

Mike8675309
10-16-2009, 06:38 PM
Other than SPEC, is there ANY OEM style clutch available for the 94-95 SC? My poor car is STILL at the tyranny shop and after six (6) clutch attempts, nothing fits properly on the stock 94-95 flywheel. I haven't driven my car in over a month. This car is turning into a nightmare!

When you say the clutch doesn't fit. What do you mean? See, a clutch assembly has a clutch disk, and a flywheel, and a pressure plate. What doesn't fit?

The thread that ricardo linked to will help you a lot though the pictures from burbank keep talking pressure plate and I didn't see a pressure plate in any of them. they were the clutch disk sitting on the flywheel.