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k_schutte

Registered User
well, I got the brake pump and everythign back together along with the new power steering pump and about 5 other little things that needed done but now I have more problems...


1. the car idles as 3K rpm

2. Took the car around the block then back to the garage to check it out, after idling for about a minute or two the headers are RED hot, glowing red...

3. temp gauge was normal after that little bit (thinking the high idle helped it climb up there) but there radiator was steaming and steam porung out the radiator cap as well. Looked like it was overheating but as I said, when I checked the gauge it was normal... Think thermostat and radiator cap would probably take care of this one...

I have an exhaust leak so that makes it near impossible to find a vacuum leak (thinking that might be the idle issue) espescialy with it idling at 3K rpm!
 
k_schutte said:
how does that thing work? pressurizes the intake side of things?
Click to expand...

connects to the throttle body. then with a air compressor you pressurize the intake side with 5-10psi. and listen for the whistling air. It comes with a regulator so you can restrict the pressure. You can e-mail them for more details on how you use it.
 
k_schutte said:
well, I got the brake pump and everythign back together along with the new power steering pump and about 5 other little things that needed done but now I have more problems...


1. the car idles as 3K rpm

2. Took the car around the block then back to the garage to check it out, after idling for about a minute or two the headers are RED hot, glowing red...

3. temp gauge was normal after that little bit (thinking the high idle helped it climb up there) but there radiator was steaming and steam porung out the radiator cap as well. Looked like it was overheating but as I said, when I checked the gauge it was normal... Think thermostat and radiator cap would probably take care of this one...

I have an exhaust leak so that makes it near impossible to find a vacuum leak (thinking that might be the idle issue) espescialy with it idling at 3K rpm!
Click to expand...

Sounds like the IAC valve is not operating correctly (stuck open) or you have the bypass screw open to far or the throttle plate is adjusted wrong (too far open). Since it's not stalling and stumbling I doubt it's a vacuum leak.

From what I've read and experinced myself, if the computer can't control (lower) the idle with the IAC, it will then retard the ignition timing. That would explain the glowing hot exhaust.

Temp sensor doesn't read steam or hot air temps, must be imersed in coolant...make sure to remove the air pockets from the cooling system. Using the air bleeder plug located above the T-stat housing on a stalk is the easiest way.

David
 
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Tried to adjust the bypass screw and that didnt work. So I took the intake tube off and just plugged about 80% the IAC hole in the T.B. with my finger and it idled down just fine... So i replaced the IAC (funny thing is i took a brand new one OFF the car and put a used one on it) with a used one I had laying around and it still idled at like 2.5K but then I just had to adjust the screw and she idles fine for the most part.

Only thing is that is does idle at like 2K-2.5K for a few seconds upon startup but then idles down and idles just fine. Now I just need to figure out where these vacuum line go and I will be good. they are little plastic lines with rubber 90* end pieces. One is on the extreme passenger side attached to a piece that is attached to the wiper cowl area... no clue what the piece is called but I will get pictures tomorow. The other is on teh extreme drivers side, can't see exactly where it comes from but it looks like it is coming off a vacuum block deal and it is fairly long. All of the vacuum ports on the intake are being used as well as on the boost bypass valve etc... I don't see any obvious place they would go. As of right now they are just blocked off...
 
k_schutte said:
Tried to adjust the bypass screw and that didnt work. So I took the intake tube off and just plugged about 80% the IAC hole in the T.B. with my finger and it idled down just fine... So i replaced the IAC (funny thing is i took a brand new one OFF the car and put a used one on it) with a used one I had laying around and it still idled at like 2.5K but then I just had to adjust the screw and she idles fine for the most part.

Only thing is that is does idle at like 2K-2.5K for a few seconds upon startup but then idles down and idles just fine. Now I just need to figure out where these vacuum line go and I will be good. they are little plastic lines with rubber 90* end pieces. One is on the extreme passenger side attached to a piece that is attached to the wiper cowl area... no clue what the piece is called but I will get pictures tomorow. The other is on teh extreme drivers side, can't see exactly where it comes from but it looks like it is coming off a vacuum block deal and it is fairly long. All of the vacuum ports on the intake are being used as well as on the boost bypass valve etc... I don't see any obvious place they would go. As of right now they are just blocked off...
Click to expand...

Can you post a picture ? The small nylon lines with rubber adaptors are used for the boost gauge, fuel pressure regulator and bypass valve actuator.

David
 
Here Are Some Pictures
 

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The first picture looks a lot like the line that goes from the plenum to the boost gauge in the cluster.....
 
The first one may be the line that goes to the cruise control module inside the fender. The sensor that you are pointing at in the bottom of the third picture is the BAP sensor, and there is no vacuum line to go to that one.

Fraser
 
fturner said:
The first one may be the line that goes to the cruise control module inside the fender. The sensor that you are pointing at in the bottom of the third picture is the BAP sensor, and there is no vacuum line to go to that one.

Fraser
Click to expand...

I was wondering... I know my '87 mustang had a line going to it (speed density) and to be honest i thought that MAF setups didn't but I wanted to be sure... where abouts is the cruise control sensor at...?


anyone have any ideas on the other one?
 
The cruise control module is inside the fender next to where the battery sits. You'll need to remove the wheel well cover to get to it.

Fraser
 
k_schutte>where abouts is the cruise control sensor at...?

The sensor is down on the trans, but the guts of the controls are inside the left front fender.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=95721

attachment.php
 
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