AOD Crew
- Thread starter Toms-SC
- Start date
Kurt K
SCCoA Member
I'm running braided SS -6AN lines on mine.
Toms-SC
Registered User
Do you happen to recall the fittings you used Kurt?
Kurt K
SCCoA Member
Well, I've detailed the fitting in previous posts, but anyway the transmission has 1/4" straight pipe threads. I actually had one of the machinists at work make 2 adapters--1/4" male straight pipe thread by 1/4" female NPT and then used 1/4" male NPT x 6AN adapter.
I have seen several people mentioning using regular 1/4 male NPT x 6AN adapter without issue.
racecougar
Registered User
I'm running 1/4" NPT to AN adapters here without any leaks. The only difference is that I went with -8AN line and fittings.
David Neibert
SCCoA Admin
Toms-SC
Registered User
Yes, unfortunately I'm away from my car for another 4 months but this it is on top of the 'to do list'.
Would anybody off the top of their heads know the size fitting that is needed for the Griffin radiator to 6AN?
With the Canadian dollar nearing par I'm going to place a large order through Summit to get all of the parts.
I'm going to use the cooler unit that 92bird used.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-13950/
Seems better than the B&M unit I currently have.
Would anybody off the top of their heads know the size fitting that is needed for the Griffin radiator to 6AN?
With the Canadian dollar nearing par I'm going to place a large order through Summit to get all of the parts.
I'm going to use the cooler unit that 92bird used.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-13950/
Seems better than the B&M unit I currently have.
DLF
Registered User
I used 1/4" NPT to AN-8 adapters, but went with -8 AQP Socketless hose on my LSC (4R70W).
I used this B&M Cooler w/Fan.
I used this B&M Cooler w/Fan.
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David Neibert
SCCoA Admin
Yes, unfortunately I'm away from my car for another 4 months but this it is on top of the 'to do list'.
Would anybody off the top of their heads know the size fitting that is needed for the Griffin radiator to 6AN?
With the Canadian dollar nearing par I'm going to place a large order through Summit to get all of the parts.
I'm going to use the cooler unit that 92bird used.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DER-13950/
Seems better than the B&M unit I currently have.
Tom,
Suggest you bypass the radiator entirely and go straight to and from the cooler.
David
Me too......
pro street rich
Registered User
I agree with this
This is a good, easy and proven way to get that oil to and from the transmission. That's what I have been doing for as long as I can remember....Rich
This is a good, easy and proven way to get that oil to and from the transmission. That's what I have been doing for as long as I can remember....Rich
old_coot
Registered User
+1
I have been using steel lines forever...its a bit more trouble initially but I like the fact that they are smaller and once they are out of the way they stay there, seems the braided line are always in my way---but thats just me.................Dan
I went with -AN because of the flexibility. I use a remote cooler and recently relocated it. I could not have done this with hard lines.
Toms-SC
Registered User
This is something I have been considering. You can get a bender and some pipe and make up some hard lines. The issue is that at some point in the line you'll need something to allow for engine flex, such as AN line.
there is nothing you cannot do with hard line. Flex is a consideration I always take into account.
Here is a copy of a post from another forum where I posted pictures of my install.
Finally working on the wifes car again. In hopes of making it to the shootout but there is allot to be done before it is ready. I am doubtful. This car was just so rusty and nasty I really should have just bought a better car.
For reference to more of the car see this thread
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=86202
On to the project at hand.
The cooler lines. I really went overboard with this, but with the 9 inch converter I knew it would run hot, a good cooler setup is a must. The radiator is from radiator classic. It fit decent as far as aftermarket radiators go, I did have to cut a notch out of the fan shroud and the fan isn't fitting exactly right still. I'll get it adjusted in a few more minutes of effort.
The upper line from the radiator I just used a conventional fitting that was 3/8 inverted flare to 3/8 pipe.
On the driver side I used a 90° fitting for a very clean install here.
The cooler mounted very clean, I would have liked to had it just a bit higher because it would have made the bends easier but I just cut and reflared the lines to get it right. I wanted the lines at or above the lowest point of the car.
The passenger side went pretty smooth as well. I also used a single bubble flare for this end to hold the transmission grade hose. I chose to split the system with transmission grade hose because I am not running solid mounts. My concern was the repeated twisting would fatigue the lines and cause a rupture.
Here is the junction point.
Last but not least the lines at the transmission.
Definately not the lazy way to do transmission lines. It takes some effort to get this right and if you haven't done it many times you better have some spare material. I pulled this off without damaging any lines, but on a job like this that is a bit much to ask for. Guaranteed if I had someone watching over my shoulder I would have kinked one.
Alan
I think that covers all the questions and reasons.
Here is a copy of a post from another forum where I posted pictures of my install.
Finally working on the wifes car again. In hopes of making it to the shootout but there is allot to be done before it is ready. I am doubtful. This car was just so rusty and nasty I really should have just bought a better car.
For reference to more of the car see this thread
http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=86202
On to the project at hand.
The cooler lines. I really went overboard with this, but with the 9 inch converter I knew it would run hot, a good cooler setup is a must. The radiator is from radiator classic. It fit decent as far as aftermarket radiators go, I did have to cut a notch out of the fan shroud and the fan isn't fitting exactly right still. I'll get it adjusted in a few more minutes of effort.
The upper line from the radiator I just used a conventional fitting that was 3/8 inverted flare to 3/8 pipe.
On the driver side I used a 90° fitting for a very clean install here.
The cooler mounted very clean, I would have liked to had it just a bit higher because it would have made the bends easier but I just cut and reflared the lines to get it right. I wanted the lines at or above the lowest point of the car.
The passenger side went pretty smooth as well. I also used a single bubble flare for this end to hold the transmission grade hose. I chose to split the system with transmission grade hose because I am not running solid mounts. My concern was the repeated twisting would fatigue the lines and cause a rupture.
Here is the junction point.
Last but not least the lines at the transmission.
Definately not the lazy way to do transmission lines. It takes some effort to get this right and if you haven't done it many times you better have some spare material. I pulled this off without damaging any lines, but on a job like this that is a bit much to ask for. Guaranteed if I had someone watching over my shoulder I would have kinked one.
Alan
I think that covers all the questions and reasons.