Starting problems and cutting out while driving

Hoss

Registered User
I own a 90sc and have starting problems and cutting out prblems while driving.
I've read most of the posts to do with the crank and cam sensor and the DIS. I just need a few more questions answered.

The car will start reliably in the mornings when its cold, after driving for awhile the car will die (while driving at any speed) then fire back up again, all the idiot lights come on whenthis happens.
--- or ---
When I park the car to go into a store or something the car will crank but not start when I come out to leave. If I wait for an hour or two the car will start.
I talked with a Ford mechanic and he says the DIS is most likly cause of this problems - it fails when hot. They want $320 for a new DIS, is reasonable or outrageous?
This problem is getting more frequent now.
I just need some confirmation regarding this.

Thanks.



:confused:
 
Similar dilemma

The symptoms of your cars difficulty starting are very similar to what I'm experiencing with my 90 as well. Thus far, the cam sensor has been replaced but now we're looking at the crank sensor due to the fact that after the new cam sensor went it, the car refuses to start at all. Ford thinks either crank sensor or computer, either way ******. I'm looking for the manual to allow the testing rather than guessing at the solution. Ford EEC Manual, Volume 3, segment on the DIS testing unit. If I find it I can provide you a copy but you may want to locate as well in which case I need a copy, at present at least.

You can find my thread under "Ford has me over a barrel"

Cheers and good luck,

Jon
 
Sounds identical to what happens when your crank sensor goes.
When it doesn't start be sure to look at your up shift arrow
light on the dash. If it stays on while it is cranking over, then it is your crank sensor.
 
Hoss.. I'm with TbirdDriver on this one. Had almost the exact same symptoms as you're describing on my 90 SC. Look for that upshift (aka uparrow) light when cranking.. if its lit.. the crank sensor's the problem. Lot cheaper than a DIS/ICM also, but harder to install. Check out XR7Dave's article over at the TBSCEC site; he has some serious shortcuts which make the job a lot faster. I screwed with the sensor itself, at night, in the rain to replace it. It was a pain. He has you remove the bracket the sensor is mounted to and viola, job done in about 1/2 the time.
 
Thanks for the feedback. I got a DIS from a local wrecker to try that and i still have the same problem. The shift arrow does stay lit when the car decides not to start when cranking. I'm not looking forward to replaceing the crank sensor.

Does anyone else sell the crank sensor? Ford wants too much for theirs.

Thanks again all.

Hoss
 
The crank sensor will cause intermittent stalls and hard warm-starts when it is ready to go. The amount of time for it to restart will get longer until it no longer will work.

Replace it before you get stuck. It is a 1 hour job with the right tools.

Mark the crank pulley for easy re-install.
Pull crank pulley and upper balancer cover.
Turn engine until sensor is in a vane opening.
Remove sensor bracket.
Mark sensor position on the bracket and remove.
Install the new sensor in the same postion on the bracket.
Install bracket and check vane clearance.
Reinstall cover and pulley.

check the placement of the wiring harness at the connector. Make sure that the wire is pushed back toward the engine as far as it will go. If you don't it can vibrate into the SC belt and get cut.

Aaron
 
similar symptoms

Please educate me. Would failure of cam sensor, crank sensore, or DIS provide a code during a diagnostic check at a Ford Dealership? Have similiar problem but doesn't show up on the diagnostic. Problem began 1 1/2 years ago, Ford diagnosis (code produced) was replacement of the PCM (just had 2nd PCM installed). Problem persists but no codes.
 
Yes, 100%...it is the crank sensor....
I've done 3 I guess the hard way....
what's this about removing the bracket?

Does that mean you don't have to disconnect the radiator bypass, lower plastic cover, use the 5.5mm wrench (that's an hour right there)....

how do you get off this mounting bracket...I can't remember seeing it?
 
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