Blasphemy or ??

I could be wrong but if the honing is producing a finer pattern wouldn't that be the equivalent of a finer grit grinder, and there by make the process take longer and be better? Continuing the grinder analogy, if you run it hard won't that produce more heat and possibly damage the ring and in the very lease burn off more oil and contaminate more too?
 
k

he seem to be talking more about motorcycle than a supercharged car. hes always talking about pressure and our car have many pressure in the cylinder i dont think hes method would work really well on our car that my 2 cent :cool:
 
i have never done a conventional break in. I fire it up let it run 20 minutes while giving it some good throttle, change oil and thats it. ready for abuse
 
So I have a new engine going in and I agree with the oil statements, using petroleum based oil and chaging soon after start up but is the rest of the ideas presented by this guy accurate.

Ken
 
That thing about 3K rpms is to break in a flat tappet cam. With roller lifters, and modern moly rings, there's really no reason not to beat on it right away.
 
Ask any engine builder what he thinks of that method. I can pretty much guarantee that you won't find anyone who says it's wrong. There are different ways of breaking in a motor, some generate more initial ring and cylinder wall wear than others, and each engine builder will have their preferred method.

On a race motor we do like Kevin said, heat cycle it a couple times and then race. There is no break in period on a race motor. But then again we don't worry about ring wear on a race motor. :cool: Everything the guy said about ring function and pressures is accurate and applicable to any engine, supercharged or not.
 
how does this work for the bottom end? since you put new pistons and rings in it you had to put new crank berrings in it, whats the break in method for just a bottom end rebuild and how does the "getting on it" affect them?
 
There is no breaking in on bearings. As long as you have good oil pressure, there will be no wear on the bearings at all. And if you don't have enough oil pressure to keep the bearings from touching the crank, then it doesn't matter how you break it in, it is going to fail. Like I said, there is no reason you can't beat on it right away. I would be a little careful for a while to make sure you don't have any other problems with fuel or cooling or anything like that, because you definitely don't want to overheat a brand new motor, but assuming everything is good with that, WOT runs right away will not hurt anything.
 
My friend the engine builder took me with him when he picked up his BMW e39 M5 in Spartanberg, SC. We then drove back across the country continually accelerating and engine braking. The e39 M5 motor is notorious for burning a quart of oil every 1,000 miles. My friends car burns a quart every 3,000 miles. We followed the BMW guidelines which said 3/4 throttle up to 500 miles, no constant speed for the first 1,000 miles and added in the continual acceleration and deceleration all the way across the country. My friend also mentioned the negative pressure thing on the cylinders.

I'm getting a new motor in my car and will break it in in much the same way.

Oh, there was also an oil change on his e39 after the first 1,000 miles even though BMW didn't require one in their break in schedule. Bits of metal from the manufacturing process, my friend said. His car is still running strong and is the fastest car I've ever driven. He's since added the Dinan software and says that it pulls strongly even above a buck sixty. It's scary fast.
 
Breaking in aircraft piston engines, require you to run a more conventional oil, and operate at 75% power or better until oil consumption is under control. Probably <25hrs, but most run them hard at least that.

These are arguably more crude of an engine, but you can't argue with there reliability and life span.
 
one of the engines we had in the NMCA Mean Street car we put it together saturday nite, loaded it up on the trailer, took it to the dyno on sunday idle it for about 15 min go it up to operating temps, changed the oil took it out on the street took it around the block then strapped it right on the dyno. had about 2 miles on it that were no where close to easy miles, then about 4-5 dyno pulls. next weekend after that we were at the drag strip.

now we just break them in on the engine dyno.
 
Breaking in aircraft piston engines, require you to run a more conventional oil, and operate at 75% power or better until oil consumption is under control. Probably <25hrs, but most run them hard at least that.

These are arguably more crude of an engine, but you can't argue with there reliability and life span.

Ditto, I think thats how my 152's break in, PER the manual says
 
Sure enough!

Before my first shootout the engine was still on the stand the weekend before racing. Put it together, started it up checked everything over for leaks, abnormal stuff, ran it up to 2000 rpm, held it steady for about 10-15 minutes. Then I drove it during the week, back and forth to work and put maybe 100 miles on it, changed the oil, trailered it to the shootout (Oklahoma) and raced it that weekend. Never had had issues.

Break it in just like you are going to run it, at least thats what Dave D. told me anyway!

Smitty
 
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