head gaskets

not a matter of if what more like when, and well they went. i found these so far. is this what i need?

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...rd=gasket&partType=02290&parentPartType=C0026

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...icle=true&partType=02258&parentPartType=C0332

also need to know what order to torque the head bolts, what ft lbs to torque them to. same with the intake

what might be the best way to clean the crank case out?
i have all the non erg stuff from an auto, can this stuff bolt up into my manual without messing up the pc?
how do i adjust the rockers once i got the heads in?

and im still searching for the plenum and exhaust manifold gaskets. if anyone has the part numbers for either please let me know?
for those wandering, yes it was the passenger side head that is leaking and it blew everything out of the over flow tank. was cruising at 70mph, i notice the temp gauge getting hot, turned on 2 cooling fans, still got warmer so i turn on my 3rd cooling fan, still got warmer so i pulled over and right as i stopped pow the water dumped out of the over flow.

That is the correct gasket set and bolts. The exhuast and plenum gaskets are included with the set. Not sure why you need to clean the crank case out. I've heard of people using seafoam. Not sure what your talking about with the EGR. If your car has EGR, I believe you need a chip so that it wont throw a code. There is no adjusting the rockers, just reinstall them and torque the bolts to proper spec. You can get a manual for these cars at auto part store for $25. It will list torque values and bolt tightening sequences. Some say some of the torque values are off on some but I bought a Haynes and used it on my first SC with no problems. I would suggest getting the ARP headstuds if you plan to keep the car and modding it in the future.

I believe he is referring to getting all the goop out of the bottom end where the coolant possibly ended up.

I usually drain the oil, let it drip for a while,change the filter,and pour in fresh oil.Never been let down yet.

ben2go said:

I believe he is referring to getting all the goop out of the bottom end where the coolant possibly ended up.

I usually drain the oil, let it drip for a while,change the filter,and pour in fresh oil.Never been let down yet.

Click to expand...

I had just finished mine and read all these horror stories about the bearings being shot after a headgasket going. So what I did was I drained the oil/water mix and let drip for a while. Put fresh oil and filter in, let car idle for about 10 minutes, then drained that oil (was told to do that also to remove any dust and sediment that got into the engine while it was open). Then put a new oil filter on and put in fresh oil. After that it was all good. I guess if you're worried about it, like I was, you can do something similar to mine.

i truely believe all the bearing failure stories could have been resolved if the oil had been changed a couple hundred miles after the head gaskets were replaced

remember.. that when the head gaskets fail the o2s usually get wet.. so you'll want to change those out as well

also... any reason why you didn't get the heads resurfaced with a low enough RA for mls gaskets?

if you need a set of heads resurfaced send me a PM

price is $100 + actual shipping

can resurface the heads with an RA below 20 for mls gaskets that also includes a quick sand blast and pressure check on the valves

for just a few bucks you can change out the stock springs with some gm beehives which is highly needed to remove heat from the valve



also when you bolt everything back up be sure to ground the heads to reduce electrolysis, thats a very common problem with our heads

decipha said:

also when you bolt everything back up be sure to ground the heads to reduce electrolysis, thats a very common problem with our heads

Click to expand...

Never heard of this, elaborate please.

electrolysis= an advanced level of electrodes created between the cathode and anode due to dissimilar metal contacts creating a nasty corrosion problem. alidining the aluminum helps prevent this but does not eliminate the process.

i heard of the o2 sensors, i have 6 of those on the selves. i also heard of the arp studs and now seeing you guys say that again, so i believe ill get those to. and yes the coolant in the crank case is what im worried about. ill try the seafoam and speedy oil change.
whats this about mls gaskets vs what i found here? cant say i ever heard of mls gaskets?

and if i use this gasket set will i want to use copper spray?
does anyone have a suggestion as to how to get these arp studs and or a part number please. so much as a part number i can google all the rest that i need to get them

update: found the arp stud part number: 1534001 and 1534203

bump: anymore suggestions? and yes i figured out what the mls gaskets are. cant say for sure yet, but the parts guy says this kit has them. if not no worries. i need all the other gaskets anyways and then ill still get the mls gaskets. heads are going in later today to get worked on. the machine guy might want some of my other stuff so i might be able to work a deal to get some sick stuff done.