questions about solid motor mounts?

90turbo1

90turbo1

Registered User
so when removing my motor the other day I found the typical motor mount torn in half.

sooo... i was wondering about the solid mounts from mn12. what difference will I notice with them, vibrations, noise ect.

also i like the idea of the hydraulic mount that ford used just dont like the design. it seems to me that they get hard with heat and pull apart from the motor torqing... am I correct. well it also looks like there is a stop for this on the metal parts of the bracket but its got like 1 inch of movement before it hits that stopper.

so why not replace with hydraulic mounts and either shim up that stopper so it doesnt move so much but will still allow the mount to absorb the vibrations.

just a question.
 
i used the solid rubber ones from spinning-wheels about 2 years ago and they are great ! i've put about 6,000 miles on them and there's no weird vibrations or anything.

about the best $50 i ever spent
 
thunderkid84 said:
i used the solid rubber ones from spinning-wheels about 2 years ago and they are great ! i've put about 6,000 miles on them and there's no weird vibrations or anything.

about the best $50 i ever spent
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hmm they are 65 a pair now.

i wonder what difference they are than the solid rubber ones that say napa or carquest sells?

i get a smoking deal at napa and they are 20 each for me there.

just wondering. I really dont wana be tearing it out and replacing them again later.
 
90turbo1 said:
hmm they are 65 a pair now.

i wonder what difference they are than the solid rubber ones that say napa or carquest sells?

i get a smoking deal at napa and they are 20 each for me there.

just wondering. I really dont wana be tearing it out and replacing them again later.
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I know someone that used those Napa ones about 4 years ago, they worked fine, though the motor sat a tad higher than stock it seemed...

paul
 
yeah the mn12 site says that they may sit 3/16 inch higher.... that is less than 1/4 inch how bad could that possibly "throw off handeling"

:D
 
i had the scp solid rubber mounts and when i pulled the engine the driver side was torn in two

solid mounts now... the best $14 i ever spent
 
Lots of people are using solid mounts. Keep in mine though that they will transmit vibration. We have a knock sensor that doesnt like those kinds of things. And I cant tell when driving the car if the knock sensors is pulling some of the timing because it registers those kind of things and reacts. Just something to think about. What surprises me is how few if any consider a torque strap. You could have original mounts to tame vibration and a TQ strap that keeps the engine from lifting on the drivers side. Better than solid mounts in my opinion

Ken
 
WELL you wouldnt even need a torque strap. if you look at the mount you will see a long tab sticking into the lower mount slot. it allows the motor to move up about 1 inch (too far as far as im concerned) so why not just modify this to only allow say 1/4 inch up movement with some heavy rubber or something.

i understand the main objective with ford was to cancel any vibrations into the cabin from the motor. BMW does the same with its diesels and such.

but what is the main cause of the failure, is it heat? movement? or both.
 
90turbo1 said:
WELL you wouldnt even need a torque strap. if you look at the mount you will see a long tab sticking into the lower mount slot. it allows the motor to move up about 1 inch (too far as far as im concerned) so why not just modify this to only allow say 1/4 inch up movement with some heavy rubber or something.

i understand the main objective with ford was to cancel any vibrations into the cabin from the motor. BMW does the same with its diesels and such.

but what is the main cause of the failure, is it heat? movement? or both.
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Torque rips them apart. The little tab can be modified as you say but a modded engine will make far more torque than the engineers planed for. Some of the heavy modified engines out there are making 450+ rwtq. That little tab aint going to handle it. Torque straps have been around for decades
(I guess that dates me) Easier to install a torque strap or chain than replace motor mounts or even remove a motor mount, mod it and reinstall it. My thoughts anyway

Ken
 
Well yes that makes sense. but I was talking a mostly stock motor here, of course if I were making 450TQ I would invest in solid mounts or a torque strap.

anyway I was just throwing some ideas out there. i still cant decide on the solid or hydraulic ones though. I dont plan on making that much power but would be nice to know that I could some day so that gets a vote for solid ones. hmm anyway..

i just dont wana change them again once motor is installed again.
 
It doesn't allow 1 inch of movement if your motor mounts are not collapsed. It only allows maybe 1/4 inch. There should be a rubber snubber on the driver's side top plate that makes sure of that. It doesn't need it on the passenger's side because the motor always spins and pulls in the same direction.
 
90turbo1 said:
Well yes that makes sense. but I was talking a mostly stock motor here, of course if I were making 450TQ I would invest in solid mounts or a torque strap.

anyway I was just throwing some ideas out there. i still cant decide on the solid or hydraulic ones though. I dont plan on making that much power but would be nice to know that I could some day so that gets a vote for solid ones. hmm anyway..

i just dont wana change them again once motor is installed again.
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I read the old posts about modifing the tab and doing this or doing that. What would make sense to me is to have factory motor mounts as they reduce vibration and work as the engineers intended them to work. Install a torque chain or strap that has 1/4" play in it. You have the best of both worlds. When you jump to WOT the strap keeps everything together. The rest of the time you are vibration free thanks to the hydralic motor mounts. I personally have solid rubber mounts with a chain TQ limiter. The engine can only TQ about 1/4". I am over 400 rwtq with my mild motor and should be around 450, I hope, with the new engine. If you are going to replace the motor mount and the car is stock and your not beating it go factory. If you modded it a little and beat it once in awhile go solid rubber. If you beat more or race it at all get a torque strap

Ken
 
OK, thanks to everyone on the list that chimed in.

i got mounts from napa (solid rubber ones) they were 20 each with my buddy discount. normally they are 38 each now so they are getting awfully close to what mn12 wants so to each there own.

i have decided that i plan to mod the car in the future and beat on it from time to time so the solid is a good choice.

thanks again..

oh btw... the car quest ones that were in another post with a part number are no longer available.
 
decipha said:
rubbers not solid

folks should call it 'hard rubber'

solid is metal
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They mean solid rubber as opposed to the gel filled factory mounts.

I've been using a set of steel cased solid rubber mounts (from SCP) with a torque strap since 2004. When installing longtube headers last year I was forced to delete the torque strap. When installing the new motor this spring, the driver's side mount was modded by welding in some keystock at the top of the window to limit the upward travel. So far so good.

David
 
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