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Jacob_Royer

Jacob_Royer

SCCoA Member
I had alot of problems with the SC after a rebuild in 07, infact it ran worse than it did before the rebuild! Well after alot of head scratching replacing the entire exhaust system (clogged resonator) and upgrading to a ported late model blower it ran as good as expected it to untuned. I mannaged to commute in it (750 miles a week!) for about 2 months and then the worst happened! I was running 80mph or so on a really toasty day down the interstate when i heard a god awful rattle going up a hill! well all the guages looked fine and i was 1/4 mile from my exit so i coasted down the offramp and when i went to take off and pull over on the shoulder it sounded like a diesiel! Meanwhile Oil pressure and temp guages still showed everything to be all good. I shut the car down imidietly and opened the hood to discover both the top and bottom radiator hose blown apart! both hoses where less than 3 months old! no coolant whatsoever in the system! now how it puked the coolant without smelling or making a noticble noise i have no idea! other than the fact i had a leaky manifold gasket(exhaust) which might have covered up the noise. Well i hauled it home and it sat in the garage for a few months. I finaly got the heads off a few weeks ago and discovered a blown gasket on the driver side. I also discovered some nasty rusty sludgy crap in the radiator(car had been running on the warm side before it quit, tried new thermostat, radiator cap fan etc) anyway i believe the problem stemmed from a bad radiator. I decided to go ahead and pull the motor out because i had purchased a 66k 5.0 H.O. and after researching the swap i decided to just stick with the sc motor. The car is to nice to masacre with a v8 swap! Well i pulled the pan and it apears i have no scoring on any of the crank journels. I have not checked all the rod journels but ive not discovered any spun bearings yet. I did notice some copper color showing on some of the bearings which i assume is from getting hot. I have somthing like 15/20k on this engine since the rebuild so i hope i can salvage it without having to do any machine work. I checked the heads and they have between .001 and .003 of warpage which im assuming is no big deal. These heads are new heads from 2004 and otherwise seem to be good but i will get them checked for cracks before i re-use them. Plans while this thing is apart.

new bearings and rings
ARP head studs
MLS headgaskets (again)
all new seals and gaskets (rear main had a small drip for some reason)
42lb injectors
76mm maf with proper sampling tube
Port the late model plenum(blower ported plenum isnt)
Rebuild the blower(coupler rattles) also somone did a goofy epoxy job on the silencer ports which i found a big chunk of in the the top of the IC! lucky it didnt go any farther! going to get rid of the epoxy! I am working on a aluminum plate that fits down inside the top of the blower to seal off the silencer ports but not be able to get sucked into the IC.

FMIC or a dic. Ive started on a DIC but one of my cores has a bad core in it so im debating on chucking it. I have a sizable volvo IC i thought about using for a front mount or just buying the same unit DRfishborn setup on his it seems to work well and alowed him to run a big alumminum radiator which is ALSO somthing i need.
I also want to finish my cold air devider. I made one awhile back for a friend and it seems to have worked out well.

Repaint everything under the hood again.

BHJ balancer (im on stock balancer #3)

It will take awhile to acummulate everything but its not hurting anything sitting in the garage. Also first of the year i will be getting crazy overtime at work again so i will have alot of extra $ to spend on it. This time no short cuts if it needs it, then it will get it. When its all backtogether its Quarterhorse and a wideband! or its going on a trailer and getting hauled to ohio to get a good tune! The mustang has been doing suprisingly well and ALMOST takes car of my need for speed :) i did a few cheap mods to it, shorty headers, catted X pipe, cai, PI intake, king cobra clutch. Took it to the track a few times ran a 9.45(1/8th) bad for no traction,stock gears and 220k+ miles :) But i sure miss my luxury ride! reliability has been good but the comfort and style just arent there :) Glad to be back and i will keep you guys updated on my progress throw some pics up etc.
 
Welcome back Jacob....Been a while
You are going to mill the heads and have them mangnafluxed?? Correct answer starts with a Y.....
 
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How can you magnaflux a alluminum head? :) doesent magnaflux only work on ferous metals? im assuming they check alluinum heads with a different process? we have some stuff at work to check welds for cracks called "fault finder" but it only works on steel. Is .003 of warpage enough to justify milling the heads? if it is no big deal i can mill them at work but a guy i know that messes with GNs all the time said .003 is nothing to worry about? Im open to sugestions milling the heads doesent bother me since they are already dissasembled and i can do it for free :) will milling .003 off the heads affect compression ratio enough to cause any problems? Im sure i can find somwhere to check them for cracks. I just dont have the meens at work we are a maintnence machine shop so we just dont have alot of stuff :) most our stuff is from the 40s and 50s but we do have alot of very useful stuff for making sc parts such as a Tig welder :)
 
Yes Jacob you are correct. Magnafluxing is not the correct term for checking for cracks on an Aluminum head.
 
Wasnt trying to be smart or anything i just figured the Magna in magnaflux would require a ferous metal :) how exactly do they check for cracks in a alluminum head?
 
I can sell you my heads really cheap...then I can but some sweet ones from Super Six! They only have 1000km's on them. My car dyno's at just under 300 with them.
 
Hey Jacob, once again - glad to see you back!

You mentioned a small leak in the rear main seal...I'll bet that the crank has a groove worn in it from the seal. I was one day away from putting my new rear main seal on and read about that problem on here. Went home and found that my crank DID have a groove worn in it! You can buy repair sleeves from Napa for I think around $20 or so, which is what I did. You'll need a "special tool" to install the sleeve...I have one you can borrow if you don't want to have to buy one...I think they're about $30. Anyway, do a little research, and I'm sure you'll agree that is probably the problem. :)

Let me know if you want any details on my radiator/FMIC install. Alot of it is posted, but some isn't. The radiator and IC combo cools the motor much better - not as good as I had hoped, but definitely acceptable. When I finally get the quarterhorse, I'll bump the fan turn on down a little and that should make me happy.
 
I will have to take a peak at the crankshaft since the pan is off and its on the engine stand upside down :) Im sure thats the problem! it never leaked before it was rebuilt! I will deffinatly check it out. What kind of temps are you getting with your radiator setup? im not sure i could do the same IC since i have A/C and i refuse to elminate it! black leather sucks without a/c and i love my working automatic climate control :) I have a volvo ic out in the garage i got for free thought about doing somthing with it but im not sure yet.. Its MUCH larger than the factory IC and i THINK it will fit infront of the condensor. I will snap some pics of it tommarow plus my other progress if i get a chance. Also my late model blower is ported big time and my inlet is not, guy i bought it from was running a MP inlet plenum and tossed a stock late model in with the blower. Would i gain anything by hogging it out to the same size as the blower inlet? or would i be wasting my time?
 
Jacob_Royer said:
What kind of temps are you getting with your radiator setup?
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I haven't driven it on any days over 80°F yet, but up to the high 70's it behaves pretty much the same with minor variance on colder days of course. :p I don't have the radiator sealed off (gaps on either side into the engien bay), or have any air directors under there yet, so it be easily improved...but anyways:

On an approx. 70°F day: After starting, coolant temp slowly warms up to 180°F, thermostat opens and it stays there as long as I'm driving about 30mph or faster. If I stop at several stoplights (3 to 5 minutes of little motion), the temp will creep up to around 210°F and when the fan comes on, it'll drop back down quickly. With the old (GOOD) stock radiator, while moving below 50mph, the temp would still try to climb up to 210°F!!

So..I think I have a pretty good setup now...especially after I change the fan turn-on settings.


Jacob_Royer said:
Would i gain anything by hogging it out to the same size as the blower inlet? or would i be wasting my time?
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Jacob, this thread is worth a read. Fraser Turner has done some testing with different inlets with interesting results. Real-world evidence that will help you set some goals maybe.
http://sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=110369&highlight=inlet+testing

I'd say that if you have the blower ported, but not the inlet...you could even be hurting performance. At the very least, I would think the ports should match up so that there aren't any "steps" in the passage from inlet to blowercase....same TB, of course.
 
Also been thinking about a looser convertor! any sugestions? ive got a comp cam 491" lift and 215/220 duration, always seemed a big slugish off idle with the cam figured a little looser convertor would be a help. Easy since the engine is out right now!
 
Just priced bearings and gaskets looks like il be out about $180 not to bad! got to get some ARP head studs too. wish i would have done that the first time! good thing im not in any hury on this.
 
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