View Full Version : crankshaft position sensor, is one brand better than another

01-13-2010, 08:08 PM
The 1st time I used a cardone from napa at $138. It didnt change a thing and still showed a solid upshift during cranking. This time Ill be using a autozone duralast for $54. Id like to hear what other sensors others have used and if it worked or not. Ive read and heard from multiple people that these sensor often come new faulty. Thanks

01-14-2010, 01:37 AM
Yeah...they are all crap. Get the Ford one and be done.


01-14-2010, 03:31 AM
swapped it out for the autozone one. Turned out to be a kiel or something. You think the ford one would have 100% rating? Im getting tired of this. Thanks. Mike

01-14-2010, 11:31 AM
I think you would have it at 95% at least. I have had very low success rate with any electrical things from and aftermarket place.


01-14-2010, 01:40 PM
duralast wont last very long. I get alternators batterys and other stuff people get and they have issues months after the install. their stuff is crap. But then again the junk we install at pepboys is also crap or atleast some of it is.

01-15-2010, 12:55 PM
duralast didnt work at all either. 2 new sensors down the srain. Ill guess Ill keep going. maybe One will work one of these days. They cant all be bad. We will see for sure

01-15-2010, 01:46 PM
I had no problem with the Autozone one. It's been good for the last 8 months or so. Did you check the air gap of the sensor? Or maybe the harmonic balancer is bad?

01-15-2010, 02:22 PM
Yeah...you sure it is the sensor? Don't get me wrong, I ran Orilley's out of starters for a ranger one day and master cyls. for an escort the nest. I think it was 10 between the two.


01-15-2010, 02:56 PM
yeah theres no wear or damage on the sensors even the original one. From reading there isnt really an air gap jkust that it needs to be centered in the vanes? I can try moving it back and forth see if it helps or hinders. Maybe you just got a good one and I got a bad one.

Other symptoms of the car if they are linked.

Radiator fan turns on and wont turn off with heater control or ac buttons. operates with the switch in on/start position?

Car wont go into diagnostics more when i plug in the schucks tester. I tried running a new ground but no change. It doesnt make sounds of relays, or anything just no change.

Last time that car ran I was on the freeway heading south at normal speeds and the car started hesitating with a mjor lack of power. I pulled off the freeway and it idled great no issues, sounds nothing. Tach was working. When you push on the gas it would try to stall and die. Not sure if it was lack or fuel or air but it wouldnt run just foul and try to die. It would go right back to idling perfect. i figured maybe an ecu reboot would do it so i turned it off and unplugged the battery. I got the upshift light and great cranking with no start. Ive been through a few sensors aince and no changes. Canshaft sensor was changed with a ford sensor 3 months prior as the symptoms occured. Replaced thermal paste on DIS with artic silver 2 months prior, plugs are wires are 20k old. magnecor wires from SCP plugs are fords factory gapped to .40. Ive check plug wires and they are great.

I want to say i have spark but no fuel pressure but its been a while since I checked for certain. I know KMC will chime in with his ford wiring check but to be honest Im a little nervous about it. It sounds greek to me.

Everything seems to piont to the sensor right?

What about the power relay module behind the passenger headlight? Could it be the pcm has no power? Thanks for the help guys. Mike

01-15-2010, 04:50 PM
I wouldn't say that everything points to the sensor. The fan coming on full-time and the lack of relay clicks when the key is turned make me think of problems with the IRCM (box behind headlight) or wiring problems.

The upshift light and no-start while cranking do suggest the sensor, but it could potentially be an ignition module problem too. The on-off nature of the problem makes me think of the ignition module. (Not the coil pack, but the gray box.)

01-16-2010, 04:12 AM
is there anyway to troubleshoot or check and see if these unit are good? Like a bench test? Thanks for the help.

01-16-2010, 09:44 AM
While cranking you should get 5.0V AC on pins

Pin 1 DB is PIP to PCM (Pin 56 on PCM)
Pin 2 DB/O is PIP to ICM (Pin 4 on the ICM)
Pin 3 LB is Ignition Ground (Pin 7 on ICM)
Pin 4 LR/G is 12v DC incoming

Pins 1 and 2 definitely should be 5v AC while cranking and 6v while running.

Ford says not to use a Auto Ranging meter.

01-16-2010, 10:53 AM
have you run an independent ground wire from batt to coil/dis yet?
It sounds like dis to me.
Swap it and ground to battery.


01-16-2010, 06:38 PM
tried tying old grounds to temporary new ones with no change. Tried checking tps wiring and maf sensor and evrything looks good, clean, perfect. I pulled the ircm and the wiring is clean. Ill borrow an analog meter tomorrow to check it for proper voltage. I know its something dumb but I just cant figure out which part it is. thanks for the help.

01-16-2010, 07:31 PM
I think the AC voltage you are looking for is at the crank sensor wiring, so that is where you shouldn't use the auto-rangin' meter. The power at the IRCM is constant, so the type of meter won't matter.

01-16-2010, 08:57 PM
Doesn't have to be analog just shouldn't be auto ranging.