5spd conversion 90SC

ricardoa1

Registered User
A close inspection of the donor parts.

Rear end 2.73, clutches are ok, but I already took them out so a new clutches will go in, if I can get the S spring back in LOL. I ordered the Pinion seal and Axle seals too.

The donor M5R2 looks to be in decent shape, there blockers have some life on them 1-2 are probalby 50%worn and third 65% and fourth probably 80% I am surprised at this. Maybe it got rebuilt at some point. The input shaft has a little end play. I ordered some shims to clear that. And I think I will replace the tailshaft seal and the front cover seals. There are two a little one and a bigger one.


Now some questions....The Yoke of the manual car has a deep groove on it. I dont think its the seal making the groove as the I can see two grooves, one where it meets the seal and another deeper one.
Can the tailshaft bushing be replaced without tearing things apart? And can I use the Yoke of the Auto Shaft it its in better shape? I am afraid of using this Yoke and have it break where the deep groove is and take out the tailshaft and housing.

I also have questions about the clutch. I will be using a stock 94-95 clutch. I know the flywheels are all the same regardless of years, but this clutch used dowel pins and regular bolts to secure it.
The clutch from the donor car is and early clutch and did not use dowls, it used the locating style bolts . Can I use these bolts on the late model clutch? I put one locating bolt on the late model clutch and feels a little loose on the clutch plate hole.


And last I wanted to get a 5spd computer for the car but and seems only 89-90 are compatible in terms of the harness. But looks like all of the 5spd cars from 89-90 are EGR equipped, and my car is not, so it will throw the CE lamp for the missing EGR. Im I right on this assumption? Should I just stick with the auto computer and loose 500rpms :(
 
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Rico, the tailshaft bushing can be replaced when you remove the tailshaft housing. It is kind of a pain in the ~~~ to do and even harder to locate one. If you have any transmission shops around I would check with them, or maybe a used housing.
 
A close inspection of the donor parts.

Rear end 2.73, clutches are ok, but I already took them out so a new clutches will go in, if I can get the S spring back in LOL. I ordered the Pinion seal and Axle seals too.

The donor M5R2 looks to be in decent shape, there blockers have some life on them 1-2 are probalby 50%worn and third 65% and fourth probably 80% I am surprised at this. Maybe it got rebuilt at some point. The input shaft has a little end play. I ordered some shims to clear that. And I think I will replace the tailshaft seal and the front cover seals. There are two a little one and a bigger one.


Now some questions....The Yoke of the manual car has a deep groove on it. I dont think its the seal making the groove as the I can see two grooves, one where it meets the seal and another deeper one.
Can the tailshaft bushing be replaced without tearing things apart? And can I use the Yoke of the Auto Shaft it its in better shape? I am afraid of using this Yoke and have it break where the deep groove is and take out the tailshaft and housing.

I also have questions about the clutch. I will be using a stock 94-95 clutch. I know the flywheels are all the same regardless of years, but this clutch used dowel pins and regular bolts to secure it.
The clutch from the donor car is and early clutch and did not use dowls, it used the locating style bolts . Can I use these bolts on that clutch? I put one locating bolt on the late model clutch and feels a little loose on the clutch plate hole.


And last I wanted to get a 5spd computer for the car but and seems only 89-90 are compatible in terms of the harness. But looks like all of the 5spd cars from 89-90 are EGR equipped, and my car is not, so it will throw the CE lamp for the missing EGR. Im I right on this assumption? Should I just stick with the auto computer and loose 500rpms :(

Get a chip for it and run it on the auto computer... with all the money your putting into it, you wouldn't notice that cost :rolleyes:, and your going to need a chip anyway with the upgrades.

Fraser
 
with all the money your putting into it, you wouldn't notice that cost :rolleyes:,
Fraser

Fraser that not nice, Ive been trying to mod the car the most frugal way possible. Similar idea to what you have been doing with your car. Unfurtunately I like HP and it cost money to sup up an SC to a respectable HP level. The car blew a head gasket and is forcing me to do all of the mods at once. A chain reaction of sort. :cool:
 
If you put in a scrap EGR transducer into the plug at the back of the fuel rail and just let it hang, you shouldn't get a CEL for the EGR. If someone took a look at the wiring diagrams, you might even be able to jumper the plug to get rid of the CEL. :cool:
 
Fraser that not nice, Ive been trying to mod the car the most frugal way possible. Similar idea to what you have been doing with your car. Unfurtunately I like HP and it cost money to sup up an SC to a respectable HP level. The car blew a head gasket and is forcing me to do all of the mods at once. A chain reaction of sort. :cool:

Get a chip, and get the most out of the car and then you don't need to hodge podge anything.

Get er done son ;).

Fraser
 
Hmm Ive never been asked, The clutch switch is in the car ,and I have it wired to my 2step and that is all. I used a mulitmeter and got an idea of what each pin does on the switch so if I get stuck im sure I can get it to act like a starter interupt, with some scrap wire laying around haha. It would be nice to have cruise and Im almost positive the middle 2 pins are for cruise since they are connected with the clutch pedal out and disconnected when pressed. Im using line locks with the cruise coast button as a momentary switch as an excuse to not wire up my clutch switch correctly:eek:.

Corey
 
Corey what year is your car and did you not have the connector for the switch on your car. I know some years had it some didnt. I have a 90 with the dumb press the brakes before start feature. Im thinking I dont have the connector for the clutch switch ready to use under the dash, :( I have not checked yet, too busy taking off the exhaust and gas tank now.
 
Corey what year is your car and did you not have the connector for the switch on your car. I know some years had it some didnt. I have a 90 with the dumb press the brakes before start feature. Im thinking I dont have the connector for the clutch switch ready to use under the dash, :( I have not checked yet, too busy taking off the exhaust and gas tank now.
90's dont have it under the dash, hince my rigged up setup. I have big ford wiring diagrams yet its still tricky to splice in and make one. You can steal the whole harness from a 5spd dash and transfer it to yours, but thats too much like work.

Corey
 
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90's dont have it under the dash, hince my rigged up setup. I have big ford wiring diagrams yet its still tricky to splice in and make one. You can steal the whole harness from a 5spd dash and transfer it to yours, but thats too much like work.

Corey

I still have the dash harness from the parts 91. So looks like Ill be busy with it. Sucks.
 
looks like i stand corrected, I have the pig tail connected to mine and i just use the leads i want to run the stuff i want, ie. wot box
 
You can pull the clutch switch and pigtail out of it but you can't use the dash harness because they are different.

I know climate controls changed over the years and things like auto dim and other features are there. So not sure what road to use. Can I jerry rig the harness so it uses the brake pedal switch? I have that retarded brake for ignitions set up.
 
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I don't really understand what either of you are talking about. The dash harness is totally different starting in 91.
 
I don't really understand what either of you are talking about. The dash harness is totally different starting in 91.

Dave I was mistaken, with years etc and harnesses. I thought you could just swap them but apprantly Im wrong. So ditch what I was talking about.
 
I don't really understand what either of you are talking about. The dash harness is totally different starting in 91.

I agree they are totally different. You ok there. LOL :rolleyes:

The climate control, EEC, and some of the options make the harness different as well as color codes for different components.

But in some 90 Models Ford put a safty feature on cars so that you cannot turn the car on without depressing the pedal. I have this feature and Im wondering if that feature and its components, relay ect. Can be used to create a clutch safty switch. I have not dug deep into that part of the project so I dont know how it will pan out. I have the other dash harness i can use to cut and splice but I am not interested in swapping dashes or the complete harness.


I also dont know for sure if 90s dont have the prewired 5spd features on the Auto cars. I am assuming my car does not have it and Corey seems to agree, but i have not verified. Are we 100% sure all 90s dont have it?
 
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Every one I know of doesnt have one. Mine has the brake to start and its still hooked up. Bit more of a pain with 3 pedals but eh. You need to take a multi meter and see how the brake switch works, and I bet you can just wire it to the clutch switch. For example, 2 end pins on the clutch switch, I cant remember which side, are disconnected with the pedal out and make a connection with the pedal in. SO, if the brake switch we have does the same, you may be able to simply unplug it, cut the connector off and run it to the clutch switch. If it works the opposite, the 2 center pins on the clutch switch are connected with the clutch out and and when the clutch is pressed it breaks the connection. I think these are for cruise by the way they operate. You picking up what im throwing down;) Oh and I never checked what the other two pins do.

Corey
 
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Every one I know of doesnt have one. Mine has the brake to start and its still hooked up. Bit more of a pain with 3 pedals but eh. You need to take a multi meter and see how the brake switch works, and I bet you can just wire it to the clutch switch. For example, 2 end pins on the clutch switch, I cant remember which side, are disconnected with the pedal out and make a connection with the pedal in. SO, if the brake switch we have does the same, you may be able to simply unplug it, cut the connector off and run it to the clutch switch. If it works the opposite, the 2 center pins on the clutch switch are connected with the clutch out and and when the clutch is pressed it breaks the connection. I think these are for cruise by the way they operate. You picking up what im throwing down;) Oh and I never checked what the other two pins do.

Corey


I see your point, But it might more complicated then stealing the brake switch power to make it work. I would have to tap from when it splits and goes to the "brake to start" components. Otherwise I kill the brake lights and the cruise kill, id like to retain both of those features.
 
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