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ricardoa1
01-19-2010, 05:54 PM
A close inspection of the donor parts.

Rear end 2.73, clutches are ok, but I already took them out so a new clutches will go in, if I can get the S spring back in LOL. I ordered the Pinion seal and Axle seals too.

The donor M5R2 looks to be in decent shape, there blockers have some life on them 1-2 are probalby 50%worn and third 65% and fourth probably 80% I am surprised at this. Maybe it got rebuilt at some point. The input shaft has a little end play. I ordered some shims to clear that. And I think I will replace the tailshaft seal and the front cover seals. There are two a little one and a bigger one.


Now some questions....The Yoke of the manual car has a deep groove on it. I dont think its the seal making the groove as the I can see two grooves, one where it meets the seal and another deeper one.
Can the tailshaft bushing be replaced without tearing things apart? And can I use the Yoke of the Auto Shaft it its in better shape? I am afraid of using this Yoke and have it break where the deep groove is and take out the tailshaft and housing.

I also have questions about the clutch. I will be using a stock 94-95 clutch. I know the flywheels are all the same regardless of years, but this clutch used dowel pins and regular bolts to secure it.
The clutch from the donor car is and early clutch and did not use dowls, it used the locating style bolts . Can I use these bolts on the late model clutch? I put one locating bolt on the late model clutch and feels a little loose on the clutch plate hole.


And last I wanted to get a 5spd computer for the car but and seems only 89-90 are compatible in terms of the harness. But looks like all of the 5spd cars from 89-90 are EGR equipped, and my car is not, so it will throw the CE lamp for the missing EGR. Im I right on this assumption? Should I just stick with the auto computer and loose 500rpms :(

BRIAN WALTER
01-19-2010, 06:26 PM
Rico, the tailshaft bushing can be replaced when you remove the tailshaft housing. It is kind of a pain in the ~~~ to do and even harder to locate one. If you have any transmission shops around I would check with them, or maybe a used housing.

fturner
01-19-2010, 11:13 PM
A close inspection of the donor parts.

Rear end 2.73, clutches are ok, but I already took them out so a new clutches will go in, if I can get the S spring back in LOL. I ordered the Pinion seal and Axle seals too.

The donor M5R2 looks to be in decent shape, there blockers have some life on them 1-2 are probalby 50%worn and third 65% and fourth probably 80% I am surprised at this. Maybe it got rebuilt at some point. The input shaft has a little end play. I ordered some shims to clear that. And I think I will replace the tailshaft seal and the front cover seals. There are two a little one and a bigger one.


Now some questions....The Yoke of the manual car has a deep groove on it. I dont think its the seal making the groove as the I can see two grooves, one where it meets the seal and another deeper one.
Can the tailshaft bushing be replaced without tearing things apart? And can I use the Yoke of the Auto Shaft it its in better shape? I am afraid of using this Yoke and have it break where the deep groove is and take out the tailshaft and housing.

I also have questions about the clutch. I will be using a stock 94-95 clutch. I know the flywheels are all the same regardless of years, but this clutch used dowel pins and regular bolts to secure it.
The clutch from the donor car is and early clutch and did not use dowls, it used the locating style bolts . Can I use these bolts on that clutch? I put one locating bolt on the late model clutch and feels a little loose on the clutch plate hole.


And last I wanted to get a 5spd computer for the car but and seems only 89-90 are compatible in terms of the harness. But looks like all of the 5spd cars from 89-90 are EGR equipped, and my car is not, so it will throw the CE lamp for the missing EGR. Im I right on this assumption? Should I just stick with the auto computer and loose 500rpms :(

Get a chip for it and run it on the auto computer... with all the money your putting into it, you wouldn't notice that cost :rolleyes:, and your going to need a chip anyway with the upgrades.

Fraser

ricardoa1
01-19-2010, 11:52 PM
with all the money your putting into it, you wouldn't notice that cost :rolleyes:,
Fraser

Fraser that not nice, Ive been trying to mod the car the most frugal way possible. Similar idea to what you have been doing with your car. Unfurtunately I like HP and it cost money to sup up an SC to a respectable HP level. The car blew a head gasket and is forcing me to do all of the mods at once. A chain reaction of sort. :cool:

neverfastenough
01-20-2010, 01:47 AM
Rico Im running my stock 90 AOD eec with my 5spd swap. I use no clutch switch btw and havent had any problems.

ricardoa1
01-20-2010, 11:01 AM
Rico Im running my stock 90 AOD eec with my 5spd swap. I use no clutch switch btw and havent had any problems.

Id like to wire the clutch switch since if I ever take the car to the track they def check for an operational clutch switch.

DrFishbone
01-20-2010, 11:39 AM
If you put in a scrap EGR transducer into the plug at the back of the fuel rail and just let it hang, you shouldn't get a CEL for the EGR. If someone took a look at the wiring diagrams, you might even be able to jumper the plug to get rid of the CEL. :cool:

fturner
01-20-2010, 11:42 AM
Fraser that not nice, Ive been trying to mod the car the most frugal way possible. Similar idea to what you have been doing with your car. Unfurtunately I like HP and it cost money to sup up an SC to a respectable HP level. The car blew a head gasket and is forcing me to do all of the mods at once. A chain reaction of sort. :cool:

Get a chip, and get the most out of the car and then you don't need to hodge podge anything.

Get er done son ;).

Fraser

neverfastenough
01-20-2010, 12:39 PM
Hmm Ive never been asked, The clutch switch is in the car ,and I have it wired to my 2step and that is all. I used a mulitmeter and got an idea of what each pin does on the switch so if I get stuck im sure I can get it to act like a starter interupt, with some scrap wire laying around haha. It would be nice to have cruise and Im almost positive the middle 2 pins are for cruise since they are connected with the clutch pedal out and disconnected when pressed. Im using line locks with the cruise coast button as a momentary switch as an excuse to not wire up my clutch switch correctly:o.

Corey

ricardoa1
01-20-2010, 01:00 PM
Corey what year is your car and did you not have the connector for the switch on your car. I know some years had it some didnt. I have a 90 with the dumb press the brakes before start feature. Im thinking I dont have the connector for the clutch switch ready to use under the dash, :( I have not checked yet, too busy taking off the exhaust and gas tank now.

neverfastenough
01-20-2010, 01:17 PM
Corey what year is your car and did you not have the connector for the switch on your car. I know some years had it some didnt. I have a 90 with the dumb press the brakes before start feature. Im thinking I dont have the connector for the clutch switch ready to use under the dash, :( I have not checked yet, too busy taking off the exhaust and gas tank now.
90's dont have it under the dash, hince my rigged up setup. I have big ford wiring diagrams yet its still tricky to splice in and make one. You can steal the whole harness from a 5spd dash and transfer it to yours, but thats too much like work.

Corey

ricardoa1
01-20-2010, 01:28 PM
90's dont have it under the dash, hince my rigged up setup. I have big ford wiring diagrams yet its still tricky to splice in and make one. You can steal the whole harness from a 5spd dash and transfer it to yours, but thats too much like work.

Corey

I still have the dash harness from the parts 91. So looks like Ill be busy with it. Sucks.

XR7 Dave
01-20-2010, 02:23 PM
I still have the dash harness from the parts 91. So looks like Ill be busy with it. Sucks.

You can pull the clutch switch and pigtail out of it but you can't use the dash harness because they are different.

neverfastenough
01-20-2010, 03:36 PM
looks like i stand corrected, I have the pig tail connected to mine and i just use the leads i want to run the stuff i want, ie. wot box

ricardoa1
01-20-2010, 03:58 PM
You can pull the clutch switch and pigtail out of it but you can't use the dash harness because they are different.

I know climate controls changed over the years and things like auto dim and other features are there. So not sure what road to use. Can I jerry rig the harness so it uses the brake pedal switch? I have that retarded brake for ignitions set up.

XR7 Dave
01-20-2010, 04:41 PM
I don't really understand what either of you are talking about. The dash harness is totally different starting in 91.

neverfastenough
01-20-2010, 04:46 PM
I don't really understand what either of you are talking about. The dash harness is totally different starting in 91.

Dave I was mistaken, with years etc and harnesses. I thought you could just swap them but apprantly Im wrong. So ditch what I was talking about.

ricardoa1
01-20-2010, 04:52 PM
I don't really understand what either of you are talking about. The dash harness is totally different starting in 91.

I agree they are totally different. You ok there. LOL :rolleyes:

The climate control, EEC, and some of the options make the harness different as well as color codes for different components.

But in some 90 Models Ford put a safty feature on cars so that you cannot turn the car on without depressing the pedal. I have this feature and Im wondering if that feature and its components, relay ect. Can be used to create a clutch safty switch. I have not dug deep into that part of the project so I dont know how it will pan out. I have the other dash harness i can use to cut and splice but I am not interested in swapping dashes or the complete harness.


I also dont know for sure if 90s dont have the prewired 5spd features on the Auto cars. I am assuming my car does not have it and Corey seems to agree, but i have not verified. Are we 100% sure all 90s dont have it?

neverfastenough
01-20-2010, 05:31 PM
Every one I know of doesnt have one. Mine has the brake to start and its still hooked up. Bit more of a pain with 3 pedals but eh. You need to take a multi meter and see how the brake switch works, and I bet you can just wire it to the clutch switch. For example, 2 end pins on the clutch switch, I cant remember which side, are disconnected with the pedal out and make a connection with the pedal in. SO, if the brake switch we have does the same, you may be able to simply unplug it, cut the connector off and run it to the clutch switch. If it works the opposite, the 2 center pins on the clutch switch are connected with the clutch out and and when the clutch is pressed it breaks the connection. I think these are for cruise by the way they operate. You picking up what im throwing down;) Oh and I never checked what the other two pins do.

Corey

ricardoa1
01-20-2010, 06:34 PM
Every one I know of doesnt have one. Mine has the brake to start and its still hooked up. Bit more of a pain with 3 pedals but eh. You need to take a multi meter and see how the brake switch works, and I bet you can just wire it to the clutch switch. For example, 2 end pins on the clutch switch, I cant remember which side, are disconnected with the pedal out and make a connection with the pedal in. SO, if the brake switch we have does the same, you may be able to simply unplug it, cut the connector off and run it to the clutch switch. If it works the opposite, the 2 center pins on the clutch switch are connected with the clutch out and and when the clutch is pressed it breaks the connection. I think these are for cruise by the way they operate. You picking up what im throwing down;) Oh and I never checked what the other two pins do.

Corey


I see your point, But it might more complicated then stealing the brake switch power to make it work. I would have to tap from when it splits and goes to the "brake to start" components. Otherwise I kill the brake lights and the cruise kill, id like to retain both of those features.

BRIAN WALTER
01-20-2010, 06:58 PM
Auto's have that relay for "push brake to start" feature.
I took out the relay and plugged the red w/lt blue stripe wires off the clutch pedal switch to the ones going to the relay. This disables the push brake to start feature and makes it so you need the clutch down.
(based on my 2 page thread of confusion!)
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109168

91 XR7
01-20-2010, 11:52 PM
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=109168

Thank you for posting this link.. Reading this thread i'm like `I recently went through this with someone else on here' :)

ricardoa1
01-21-2010, 11:21 AM
Thanks for the link too.


Is it possible to get the schematics from someone? The pictures are dead on that thread. I think that will help me out some. Looks like I got my cutout for me. :(

91 XR7
01-21-2010, 06:38 PM
Which Pictures are dead?? Any that are in my posts, show me the post they are in.. and i'll Repost them..
OR they the ones in the link in that link ?? :cool: which seem to still be there (and i MAY have copies of?? )

The swap shouldn't be all that bad thou.. specially wiring wise... Since you're basiclly starting at the same point i did when i did the 5spd swap in my '91 XR7 it's not that hard at all..
Even thou i swear the '90's 5spd only used 4 wires for the clutch switch, if i remember correctly thou.. '89s and '91 to '93 used 6 wires??
It won't be the end of the world to do.. I know i had my '91 rewired in like a couple of hours (soldering, shrink tube, ect) and it's also exactly like OE too

BRIAN WALTER
01-21-2010, 08:21 PM
Rico, I'll email you my schematics later tonite.

Basically, repin the tranny connector under center of dash, then add in wires to appropriate connections.
I could not find out where one of the cruise control wires went in the end:confused:

slipknot1212121
01-21-2010, 09:17 PM
Ok guys Dont know if this will help but this was my situation....I used to have(it got stolen) A 93 auto with the brake to start crap... and when I did the 5 spd swap I kept the auto brake pedal( i know lol , i was just gona cut it down instead of swappin to a 5 spd brake pedal) And didnt even touch the brake to start crap, I kept my auto computer also... So when I hooked everything up And the clutch pedal switch, (the harness was there)...(btw you NEED the clutch pedal switch if you want cruise control etc) Everything worked fine?!? I DIDNT have to press the brake to start it(although I left the brake switch hooked up???and had auto computer??) And I DID have to press the clutch pedal to start....Dont know why it worked now that I think of it lol .. Now what I should have done was to test the brake, and see if it would start,holding the brake and NOT clutch.... Oh well , but maybe if the computer see a clutch pedal switch hooked up it cancels the brake switch??I dont know...but my clutch pedal switch worked fine on the auto computer.....like I said, if this helps cool, if not oh well , that was my expierience...

ricardoa1
01-22-2010, 04:00 PM
This is confusing. Ive read and reread the post and the schematics that are available on those posts.


The clutch switch has a total six wires. A set of two does 3 different individual things.

1. Set from pin 5 and 6, does the EEC switch.
From the clutch switch from a 91 they are GY/Y and Purple/Yellow. Where can I get the feed for this, I guess I am looking for a R/LB wire from the computer to connect the GY/Y wire, where is connector C110? and where do I run the P/Y wire to It seems to lead to C120 connector, at that connector it turns into a BK/W white wire.

2. pins 3 and 4 does the Speed control release switch.
From the Clutch switch they are Light Gray and Red/ Light Gray. Connector C120. Where is that connector? That connector will have two LG wire one going in and one going out. Take out the one LG wire and connect with one of the wired from the clutch switch and then connect the other two. Again where is this connector?

3. 1 and 2 is the clutch interlock switch.
From a 91
The wires are Red and light blue x 2
Run these 2 to the brake interrupt relay and remove the two Red and Light blue wires from the relay, connect R/LB from the clutch switch with one R/LB wire from the relay connector, and then do the same for the remaining two R/LB >< R/LB. Remove relay permanently.....


Am I right?

Where are the connectors mentioned above?
C120
C110

91 XR7
01-23-2010, 01:50 PM
I can see how it can be confusing, but if you look at it one circuit at a time and ain't all that bad..

Clutch switch

Starter Interrupt; Easiest one.. Pins 1 & 2 would go to the two Red w/ Blue wires at the `push to start'
* So Pin 1 goes to ONE of the Red w/Blue at the relay, Pin 2 goes to the other

Cruise Control; Mildly easy. Pins 3 & 4. Ones light green the other light green w/ Red tracer (Or just light Green too)..
* Light green gets Spiced into the SWITCHED side (to the lights) of the brake light switch
* The light green w/ Red will Head to the ECU Pin # 5

ECU Switch ; Not as bad as one thinks.. Pins 5 & 6.. Purple w/ Yellow and Grey w/Yellow ('89-90's one can be Black w/ White?)
* The Grey w/Yellow will go towards the ECU to Pin #30 (which will be Red w/Blue) and tie in with same colored wire coming from the transmission (more on that later?)
* The Purple w/Yellow (which i think is the one that can be Black w/ White?) is going towards the ECU to pin # 46 and is tied in with the Same colored wire from the transmission (as above, more later)

Transmission

There will be Two wires on the transmission harness that shouldn't be on the `dash' plug A Grey w/ Yellow and a Purple w/ Yellow ? All you have to do is Tie in the Same Colors of the Respectful wires from the clutch switches Pins 5 and 6..

At the ECU

You should have 3 wires now around the ECU you just ran

* Now You need to find Pin #30 With the Red w/ Blue wire, which is the one next to the bolt that holds the connector on the ECU (but double check thou) Now you need to CUT that wire far enough away from the connector so you can add the Grey w/ Yellow Wire you just ran to the wire going to the ECU.

* Now you have options..
1. You can do it like Factory.. and Spice in the Purple w/ Yellow to the wire that goes to the ECU's Pin #46 (purple w/ Yellow)
OR
2. Just ground the Purple w/ Yellow wire to the chassis, which is what i did

* The Light Green w/ Red from clutch switch for the cruise control... Fine Pin #5 at the ECU (Light Green) and cut it as far from the connector as possible and add connect the Light Green w/ Red to it

Clearer or not?

Disclaimer;
I shall not be held responsible for any issues that arise from using this info.. They are giving for reference and should be doubled checked to be sure they are correct.. Wire color coding may be different then that is listed above and are given for reference only..

91 XR7
01-23-2010, 02:06 PM
C120 i think would be Around the ECU (behind the passengers kick panel)
C110 In the same area

Only guessing, since in '91+ they relabeled the connectors, and they have those two connectors under the hood :rolleyes:

ricardoa1
02-07-2010, 09:04 PM
Got a chance to work on the hardest part of the conversion, thank you for posting the detailed instructions on the wiring. I made a harness from the donor car. I will still need to figure exaclity where to tap the three wires next to the computer. But I got the Drivers and Mid connections sorted out.

:D

Lots of work to get that pedal in there, still not done but enough for this weekend.


http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ricardoa1/Transswap003.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ricardoa1/Transswap002.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ricardoa1/Transswap013.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ricardoa1/Transswap012.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ricardoa1/Transswap007.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ricardoa1/Transswap008.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ricardoa1/Transswap011.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ricardoa1/Transswap009.jpg
http://i68.photobucket.com/albums/i10/ricardoa1/Transswap010.jpg

kneedragger25
02-08-2010, 12:18 AM
I have a friend that has a t5 out of his 90 stang GT the tranny needs the syncro's replaced and thats pretty much it. the clutch uses a cable link. would I be able to use this on my 90 sc? I can get the rest of the parts from a junk yard.

ricardoa1
02-08-2010, 11:21 AM
I have a friend that has a t5 out of his 90 stang GT the tranny needs the syncro's replaced and thats pretty much it. the clutch uses a cable link. would I be able to use this on my 90 sc? I can get the rest of the parts from a junk yard.


The 5 speeds on an SC is a M5R2 designed to take the torque the SCs produce. They are also longer and will put the shifter right were it needs to be. A T5 is weaker and there is lots of mods that needs to be done to make it fit. If you want a 5 speed buy a donor car and transfer over the parts.

ricardoa1
02-08-2010, 11:29 AM
I have another qustion, I broke the white clip off the Clutch pedal Switch :mad: Trying to get the master in place. The plunger of the master came out and the white clip for the switch came flying in pieces.

After fighting the master for a while my friend came over and noticed I had the wrong rotation on it and did not have the right tabs aligned.

Ive seem to have failed at this when groing up :rolleyes:

http://www.identitydirect.com.au/contents/media/2676_shape_sorting_box.jpg







Is the plunger rod removable after its been inserted once? And two, the pedal is does not travel all the way down to the rubber stop, Is this because the line is yet to be hooked up and there is some fluid in the line causing pressure on the pedal?

I went back and the dash back in place, with its new home made harness. I have to solder and repin the center connectors still. But its looking good.

90turbo1
02-08-2010, 11:29 AM
The 5 speeds on an SC is a M5R2 designed to take the torque the SCs produce. They are also longer and will put the shifter right were it needs to be. A T5 is weaker and there is lots of mods that needs to be done to make it fit. If you want a 5 speed but a donor car and transfer over the parts.

you can convert the T-5 to hydraulic set up if you look around for a camaro/firebird with a t-5 those were hydraulic. also i have heard that a throw out bearing from an escort works well (never seen it done) but thats hydraulic like the SC has also.

then there is the old mod using a wilwood slave cylinder and a simple bracket. thats what I did on my RX7 5.0 project...

but agreed the SC trans is designed to handel the torque and a T-5 is a good trans but kinda finiky when comes to lots of power through it.

ricardoa1
02-08-2010, 01:21 PM
I went back to one of Frasers post. I think he had a 90 that he did this to it. Am I in the right track for installing the wires in the exact manner he did, is this an alternative way of installing the three ECU wires?
And in that post there was a question about the red/light blue wire at the connector. In my home made harness I have the red/lblue wire is spliced onto the grey/yellow wire So it will have the right color to connect near the ECU. Do I cut the wire and connet to the ECU side or tap into the line? I wonder what happens to the other end.

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showpost.php?p=656542&postcount=18

ricardoa1
02-09-2010, 12:22 PM
Bump for some help on the pass kick panel connections.


I got the dash and steering column back in and cleaned up the Ford Aftermarket alarm system that was in the car.

On the Home made Clutch switch harness I connectied the Red/light blue wires to the push to start relay. So thats all set. I also tapped the light green wire of the harness to the light green wire comming out of the brake pedal switch. So the three on the left are done. I also added the two pins to the center console connector for the trans. I matched the colors and pin locations like the trans jumper harness had. So those are all set.
Im making progress just have to finish the right side...can anyone who had done this give some input.


I went back to one of Frasers post. I think he had a 90 that he did this to it. Am I in the right track for installing the wires in the exact manner he did, is this an alternative way of installing the three ECU wires?
And in that post there was a question about the red/light blue wire at the connector. In my home made harness I have the red/lblue wire is spliced onto the grey/yellow wire So it will have the right color to connect near the ECU. Do I cut the wire and connet to the ECU side or tap into the line? I wonder what happens to the other end.
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showpost...2&postcount=18

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91 XR7
02-10-2010, 01:47 AM
At the ECU

You should have 3 wires now around the ECU you just ran

* Now You need to find Pin #30 With the Red w/ Blue wire, which is the one next to the bolt that holds the connector on the ECU (but double check thou) Now you need to CUT that wire far enough away from the connector so you can add the Grey w/ Yellow Wire you just ran to the wire going to the ECU.

* Now you have options..
1. You can do it like Factory.. and Spice in the Purple w/ Yellow to the wire that goes to the ECU's Pin #46 (purple w/ Yellow)
OR
2. Just ground the Purple w/ Yellow wire to the chassis, which is what i did

* The Light Green w/ Red from clutch switch for the cruise control... Fine Pin #5 at the ECU (Light Green) and cut it as far from the connector as possible and add connect the Light Green w/ Red to it

This doesn't make sense is what your saying??? :confused:

At this time, i would think you can just leave the Cruise circuit alone, it'll still work and such.. but if you press in the clutch pedal the engine will not stop accelerating.. So as long as you tap the brake pedal or push the off button it should be fine..

How Fraser did it in the 2nd picture (about the blue connector) would be the choice for the Red/Blue (or Grey/Yellow as i have listed above) The other choice i'm not certain of.. sorry

ricardoa1
02-10-2010, 11:10 AM
This doesn't make sense is what your saying??? :confused:

At this time, i would think you can just leave the Cruise circuit alone, it'll still work and such.. but if you press in the clutch pedal the engine will not stop accelerating.. So as long as you tap the brake pedal or push the off button it should be fine..

How Fraser did it in the 2nd picture (about the blue connector) would be the choice for the Red/Blue (or Grey/Yellow as i have listed above) The other choice i'm not certain of.. sorry


Thanks, The large gauge red and blue for the push to start are finished thats what I meant. The easy part. :)
For the Grey/Yellow I grabbed the whole thing from the parts car so its Gray/yellow starting from the switch and then turns into a small gauge red/blue wire with a splice in grey/yellow, At the center connector as you get near the ECU. Not sure if thats the confusion.

I wanted to do the installation like Frasers post so I dont have to run the wires right at the ECU connector. I think he uses the intermediate connectors for his install. But he questions wether to cut the wire or splice. I cannot find a diagram of that wire so I dont know what component it leads to IE brake pedal or some other imput, So if I cut it do I disable whatever component it leads to? On your instructions you mention cutting the red/blue wire and the light green/red wire. Did you mean cut (as in leaving one side of the cut wire loose and connet the other side with the new wire) or splice onto using vampire connectors? Thats my confusion.

91 XR7
02-10-2010, 11:56 AM
Cut as in Disregard one section..
Spice as in Join together..

I would do how Fraser did the Red With Blue one (in the blue connector) then Do as he did with the Purple With Yellow? on in the black connector then.. Which in theory should just leave you the one for the cruise control.. If you can figure out which on of those pins at the blue or black connector is the one that goes to the pin at the ECU for the cruise control circuit.. you can then add it like that too..

ricardoa1
02-10-2010, 12:41 PM
Cut as in Disregard one section..
Spice as in Join together..

I would do how Fraser did the Red With Blue one (in the blue connector) then Do as he did with the Purple With Yellow? on in the black connector then.. Which in theory should just leave you the one for the cruise control.. If you can figure out which on of those pins at the blue or black connector is the one that goes to the pin at the ECU for the cruise control circuit.. you can then add it like that too..

Ok cool thanks for the help, Ill just two of the three wires, Purple/Yellow wire in the black connector-check. Then the small Red/blue wire CUT INTO the blue connector-check. That leaves the other wire for a later date. :)

91 XR7
02-10-2010, 10:31 PM
Yah i think if you do it like how Fraser did it, it should work out.. But i'm not sure thou.. If not you'll know :p

ricardoa1
06-12-2011, 09:42 PM
I am at a loss. I just got back to trying this wiring the cruise thing again. I just started to drive this car again. At first I tried doing the fraser style but that led to nothing happening. Then I cut the number 30 red/blue and number 5 light green. And tapped wires from the home made harness in. But stil it did not work. The gray/yellow I left connected to the big black connector I think this is ground anyhow.

Is there a way of testing the cruise system with bypassing the clutch and brake safety kills?. I need to make sure the system is working. If I jump the 30 and 5 wires at the computer does it bypass all the safty kills. I just dont know why its not working at all. Is there a fuse? I need to know how the ecc works in relation to the cruise function. I am stumped how does the signal travel?

ricardoa1
06-13-2011, 08:49 AM
Help me out guys. How can I power the system to see if it works? Before all the safety stuff gets wired.