Tps

Hiram K

Registered User
90 SC auto, car seems to stumble ever so slightly from a start till it shifts into OD. In the old days we would call it a slight bog. This happens under normal easy driving. If I accelerate quickly I don't notice this problem. Would a faulty TPS cause this ? I just replaced the IAC and the DIS module in the last 6 months.
 
No, I did not get the memo..... do the SC's have a problem with the TPS? I do not have a code reader, and I do not seem to have a vac leak. I really would appreciate any valid info re this issue. Is it possible to visually inspect this part and/or is it possible to test this part ? This probably is an elementary problem for some of you pro's, but no so for me. Help if you can..... please.
 
no sorry about the tps joke, i was quoting from "office space".

but the tps has been brought up many times on here before. i wouldnt say they have a problem with it but some have had failures and such.

thye are pretty easy to check with a meter, a first check would be to see if you have the required 5 volts at the connector. then there should be a spec for the signal to be at when throttle is closed. (sorry dont have them off top of my head) and you can open the throttle and it should be nice and linear voltage in comparison to throttle opening. if you car is an auto then there may be more things going on there but the check would be the same.
 
No, I did not get the memo..... do the SC's have a problem with the TPS? I do not have a code reader, and I do not seem to have a vac leak. I really would appreciate any valid info re this issue. Is it possible to visually inspect this part and/or is it possible to test this part ? This probably is an elementary problem for some of you pro's, but no so for me. Help if you can..... please.

omfg, roflmao, you almost killed this guy 90turbo1 lol. no matter how bad my day is, i look at stuff like this and it gives me a grin. :)
 
no sorry about the tps joke, i was quoting from "office space".

but the tps has been brought up many times on here before. i wouldnt say they have a problem with it but some have had failures and such.

thye are pretty easy to check with a meter, a first check would be to see if you have the required 5 volts at the connector. then there should be a spec for the signal to be at when throttle is closed. (sorry dont have them off top of my head) and you can open the throttle and it should be nice and linear voltage in comparison to throttle opening. if you car is an auto then there may be more things going on there but the check would be the same.

good news is to, that if it is the tps they are extremely easy to replace and somewhat cheap.
 
This probably is an elementary problem for some of you pro's, but no so for me. Help if you can..... please.

I'm surprised you didn't get the typical `use the search button, Been discussed like 1000 times already' Reply, mind you that more of a TCCoA thing :rolleyes:

I remember having this issue with my '91 XR7.. But with it, it was only when it was cold thou.. After like 10-15 minutes of running it'll run normal..
I can't say what fixed it thou.. since i replaced the Engine coolant temp sensor, O2's and TPS sensors at the same time when i redid the top end for a intake gasket leak (into the intake runners)

I'll have to do some digging to see which wire(s)? you probe at the TPS..
It may be in another post on here too..

http://www.fordfuelinjection.com/?p=30 ,-= TPS checking
 
Last edited:
Thank you, I did use the search feature but did not find a discussion on the same issues I was having. It seems as though there is a couple flat spots or bogs as I accelerate slowly. As I stated before, if I accelerate sharply I do not seem to have this issue. It does not seem to matter whether the car is cold or warmed up. I guess I will have to do more research . I know the TPS is not expensive, just thought I might be able to confirm that in fact it was the TPS causing the problem.
 
Start with the maintenance items that have not been done in a while. Plugs, PCV valve, wires, air filter, clean MAF. Then unhook the battery for 10 minutes, and reconnect. Then start the car and let it re-learn idle. Drive it around a bit and see if things are better. If not, at least you got the maintenance things out of the way.

Next pull codes. There are codes that will be stored but not cause the check engine light.
 
Thank you for the input, I will start with cleaning the MAF, then go from there. Appreciate the suggestions, will post results when I have completed the maintenance items.
 
Back
Top