Getting this '95 started again after a mental break

stigs

Registered User
Hi all,
After a self-preservation break from working on this '95, I am again attempting to get her running. I very short run down on what was done...

-Dropped in a stock crate engine
-Rebuilt blower
-Have changed and/or tested MAF, TPS, Cam, Crank, Baro, etc
- Fuel pressure is good on the rail
- My all new fuel injectors are firing as best as I can tell from the stethoscope
- I've checked for vacuum leaks more times than I can count
- No codes (except when trying to start it without the MAF plugged in)

I took the following two videos of the car trying to start...

The first video you can see the car trying to start and no matter what I do with the gas pedal after the start, it dies. ---
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cQRxiubXN_U
The second video, in which the MAF is unplugged, you can see me feathering the gas pedal to keep the car running, and after a bit it starts to idle on its own, albeit poorly.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=z7s9TEbsmHE

What do you smart folks think...Am I still tracking a vacuum leak? Exhaust problem? I'd hate to say it, but a bad head???
 
Where did you get the motor from? Hopefully not from Jasper.

The looks like car has a big vacuum leak. Best way to check is to hose the engine down with carb cleaner.

Also, try another MAF from someone and see what that does
 
...

from you feathering the gas you really cant tell if it has a big leak or not... the best way is just for you to have someone on the gas and for you to listen, it will be loud enough to hear it if there is a leak or not.

go buy a new maf is your best bet.. then you can at least rule that out.

where are you located at?
 
Gents,
I've had folks listen for a leak with no success...however I haven't tried using carb cleaner since I got it to idle with the MAF disconnected so I need to try that again.
This is my third MAF I've been trying but they've all been from parts store. I live in College Station, TX and I'd love to find a known good MAF around here to check it on mine.
I'll try the carb cleaner again...any other thoughts out there?
 
do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail, if not get 1, they are fairly cheap. not certain here but it almost sounds like low fuel pressure. also check all wires, plug wires, water level, and also try starting it with the gas cap off.
 
do you have a fuel pressure gauge on the fuel rail, if not get 1, they are fairly cheap. not certain here but it almost sounds like low fuel pressure. also check all wires, plug wires, water level, and also try starting it with the gas cap off.

Slowpoke,
Thanks for the suggestion, but as I said in the OP, I've checked the fuel pressure at the rail and it is good. (It was one of the many issues I originally had when putting the car back together and had to put a new fuel pump in.) The rail stays at 35psi throughout the starting/running process now and loses about 1-2psi an hour after shutdown.

I also have new wires and checked spark at every plug. H2O is good and tried with the gas cap off as well.
 
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Stigs,

In the OP you mention testing or replacing several sensors. The SC camshaft position sensor has eaten my lunch more than once. I have had them just cause annoying drivability problems to horrible detonation, to symtoms like your car is exhibiting, all without thowing a code. They are pretty cheap so for about $30.00 you could try another one.

Sent ya a PM also
 
Stigs,

In the OP you mention testing or replacing several sensors. The SC camshaft position sensor has eaten my lunch more than once. I have had them just cause annoying drivability problems to horrible detonation, to symtoms like your car is exhibiting, all without thowing a code. They are pretty cheap so for about $30.00 you could try another one.

Sent ya a PM also

It is a new CPS. Do you have a known good I could borrow from you? I sent you an e-mail, thanks for all your help...it is TRULY appreciated.
 
update

I went out and started it with MAF disconnected (only way to get it run at all) and sprayed engine down with carb cleaner..no luck. My only other update / question is...

Will running the car with MAF disconnected cause it the run very rich? Or is this a symptom of the original issue?

Thanks, y'all
 
If it was my engine, I would go back to the basics. Compression, fuel, ignition. I would check the compression to look for any cyclinder that is not with-in the range of the other cylinders. Most common internal problems will show up with a compression check. I would verify my ignition with a timing light to ensure all plugs are firing. I would also verify that the #1 plug is firing with the timing marks. If not the cam positon sensor may be bad or installed incorrectly. It sounded like you checked your fuel pressure for consistent pressure while the engine was running so I don't suspect a problem with fuel.

By listening to your video and what you said in your OP I would suspect you have a air leak in one of the inter cooler tubes or a major vacume leak.

Mark
 
whats wrong with jasper remans ??? i know my probe engine 2.5 from jasper didnt last
 
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