Does the rear end need to come out to remove trans?

Drummer

Drummer

Registered User
Took my 1990 SC to a transmission shop today to put another M5R2 transmission in. Took it in at 9 this morning and they said it would take 3 or 4 hours. Called them back at 5pm and they said it wasn't even out of the car! I drove to the shop and asked the owner if there was a problem? He said they had to drop the rear end to remove the transmission......Is this SOP for a transmission removal or are these guys just uneducated. The sign on the door says "28 year experience" Please tell me this is not so.:confused:
 
To remove the trans one of two things has to happen... drop the fuel tank to remove the driveshaft or drop the rear to gain clearance which enables the driveshaft to slide toward the rear of the car allowing removal the trans.

Don't ask me how I know:rolleyes:

Bryan
 
no you don't have to drop the whole rear but you do have to unbolt the front mount and drop the front of the dif. down. plus you have to drop the exhaust system and the gas tank. it is more of a pain in the @#$ then most.
Scott
 
just reread your post it should not take 8 plus hours to take it out. I can do it without a lift on my back in 4.
Scott
 
SmokinTbirdSC said:
no you don't have to drop the whole rear but you do have to unbolt the front mount and drop the front of the dif. down. plus you have to drop the exhaust system and the gas tank. it is more of a pain in the @#$ then most.
Scott
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If you drop the diff, you do not have to drop the tank. But yes, you will have to drop the exhaust regardless. Personally, I always drop the diff. Just 4 bolts (might have to unbolt the abs sensors, I can't remember) to drop the diff and then slide the driveshaft over the front of the pumpkin just enough for the yolk to clear the transmission.
 
dude, the exhaust and fuel tank come down rediculously easy. better off just doing that and take the driveshaft out rather than mess with the rear.
 
The really quick way is to take the front driveshaft u-joint apart. Then you dont have to mess with any of the above. I have done it all three ways though...
 
remove the 2 forward bolts on the pumpkin, pull it down and slide the drive shaft back onto the top of the pumpkin, it will be tight be will work. if you need to you can take the rear pumpkin bolts out to. it will not fall and will rest on the side drive shafts.
 
when I did mine, i just unbolted the rear end (exhaust removed first) and let the rear end hang down the drive shaft will then slide back over the pumpkin and allow you to remove the transmission.

gas tank does not have to be disturbed.

it is a toss up on the tank, or rear end and i will go for the rear end anyday because there is no chance of causing a leak or damaging a plastic fuel tank by removing the 4 bolts for rear end.

as a precaution i would also remove the abs sensors from the rear end to prevent any accidential damage.

i dont see how dissasembling the front u joint is any easier.
 
I find the fastest way is to only remove the 4 mounting bolts on the rearend and let it hang on the axles. I have removed a transmission from a 95 4.6 in less than 20 minutes and this is the technique I use.
Alan
 
Wow, now that's a spread. From 20 minutes to 8 hours. Seems to me that to maintain and fix a SC you need to be...

A. A mechanic with $$$$ worth of tools and probably a lift.

B. Wealthy enough to fork over major cash to get someone to fix your SC ailments.

I love my SC, don't get me wrong but this is really getting nuts. I don't think the Space Shuttle is as complicated.
 
I dropped the AOD in my car, rebuilt it and put it back in the car in about 12 hours. I do have a lift at the workshop though.....Dan
 
Just a footnote to all of this. Bought a transmission from a member on this site. Thats were all this started to begin with. The shop just called me and said the transmission that I got is bad aka locked up. Almost $400 for the transmission and now $600 for the labor to do the swap back. I am livid and way cannot afford this.:mad:
 
Drummer said:
Just a footnote to all of this. Bought a transmission from a member on this site. Thats were all this started to begin with. The shop just called me and said the transmission that I got is bad aka locked up. Almost $400 for the transmission and now $600 for the labor to do the swap back. I am livid and way cannot afford this.:mad:
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Sorry for your mishap but did you bother to open up the case and look inside to see if the blockers were in good shape? That is starndard procedure before trying to put used stuff in the car. Plenty of info on this site on how to check. I would have at least spun the input to see it it spins......

What was wrong with yours?
 
2nd and 3rd gear syncros were out. Grinding. That was kind of the idea behind the purchase. I made it VERY clear that I wanted something I could just swap out. Something that was already good. I am no mechanic and again made that very clear in my post.
 
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Drummer said:
2nd and 3rd gear syncros were out. Grinding. That was kind of the idea behind the purchase. I made it VERY clear that I wanted something I could just swap out. Something that was already good. I am no mechanic and again made that very clear in my post.
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You dont need to be a mechanic to check the blocker rings, with a little guidance we could have helped you not be in the situation you are in.

Dont trust people. I would advise telling the shop to roll the car into a space in the shop, and do a rebuild of the blockers. Any gear or trans shop can put it together. It is not a complicated trans to work with. Southern Gear is the place to get blockers, seals and nuts to do the job.

Again sorry for your mishap.
 
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