Engine install problem

kenewagner

Registered User
So I am continuing to try and install the new engine and it just doesnt want to mate up to the tranny. All the bell housing bolts are in but when tighting them up they start to get real hard to turn and end up with about 1/4" of gap between the tranny and the engine. The converter studs are in the correct fly wheel holes. I had the engine in and out like 4 times checking everything. Even took the converter off the transmission and slid it on the fly wheel to be sure the pilot slid into the rear of the crank. It has fought me tooth and nail to match up and once I got all the bolts started it feels like there is something binding and keeping the tranny from bolting up smoothly to the engine. I have done about 4 engine changes in the past and they all pulled up smoothly once the bolts were all in. Looking for a solution or someone who had a simular problem. I have a ton of things to get done on this car besides fighting the bolt up of the engine:mad:

Ken
 
Sounds like the converter isn't seated all the way in the transmission.

I second what Kurt has stated. With the engine back out, stand in the compartment and push the converter with one hand while spinning it via one of the studs with the other. If you have tried drawing it up with too much force, you may have messed up the bushing in the converter. May want to pull it back off completely and check that as well. That will cause a major leak if that is the case Ken...
 
I've had that problem a couple of times, both times the TQ wasn't seated all the way in the pump. 1st time I tried tightening the trans bolts and ended up messing up the snout on the TQ and had to send the TQ back to Alan for a snout repair, lesson learned. 2nd time in a different car couldn't get the TQ to engage all the way in the pump, ended up sticking the driveshaft in and turning the shaft just enough for the TQ to be able to seat all the way.....:rolleyes:
 
prob

also make sure there are not two of those studs hitting each other.. when i did mine i didnt relize that there were two studs hitting, one from the motor and in the same hole in the trans...

stupid but sometimes over looked...
 
Sounds like the converter also. I had the engine in and out 4 times also when I installed mine last fall for the same reason. The converter I had refused to go on all the way, I bought another new (different brand ) converter and the problem was solved. Put a straight edge across the transmission and measure the depth to the mounting pads on the studs, if I remember should be about 1". The converter when seated into the transmission should have to be brought forward to seat into the flex plate.
 
Sounds like the converter also. I had the engine in and out 4 times also when I installed mine last fall for the same reason. The converter I had refused to go on all the way, I bought another new (different brand ) converter and the problem was solved. Put a straight edge across the transmission and measure the depth to the mounting pads on the studs, if I remember should be about 1". The converter when seated into the transmission should have to be brought forward to seat into the flex plate.

I pushed in the converter and it seemed to be seated. Very frustrating to spend 5 hours on a fairly quick job. The alum drive shaft was in in 20 minutes. Guess I will pull the engine again:( I know it wasnt in a inch when I put a straight edge on it. I do remember that the converter had to come forward now that I think of it

Ken
 
I'll dig out the converter install sheet from TCI and see what that measurement should be.

My instructions say 1" +/- 0.050
 
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I pushed in the converter and it seemed to be seated. Very frustrating to spend 5 hours on a fairly quick job. The alum drive shaft was in in 20 minutes. Guess I will pull the engine again:( I know it wasnt in a inch when I put a straight edge on it. I do remember that the converter had to come forward now that I think of it

Ken

Wrong size bushing in the converter?
 
I pushed in the converter and it seemed to be seated. Very frustrating to spend 5 hours on a fairly quick job. The alum drive shaft was in in 20 minutes. Guess I will pull the engine again:( I know it wasnt in a inch when I put a straight edge on it. I do remember that the converter had to come forward now that I think of it

Ken

Wait, you pulled the converter forward before you had the bellhousing tight?
 
agreed you need to turn the converter a min of 8 times while pushing it into transmission. (thats what I was taught by an old master tech) then tighten transmission bolts to engine, then finally when you are done there the torque converter should still be able to be turn by hand. if it doesnt turn with a screw driver up in there something is not right and you need to start over. torque converter bolts should be last.
 
agreed you need to turn the converter a min of 8 times while pushing it into transmission. (thats what I was taught by an old master tech) then tighten transmission bolts to engine, then finally when you are done there the torque converter should still be able to be turn by hand. if it doesnt turn with a screw driver up in there something is not right and you need to start over. torque converter bolts should be last.
The only thing that might be different than listed above is if your converter has studs on it. Obviously, you will need make sure the studs are lined up with the flex plate holes prior to tightening the bell housing to the block.
 
Wait, you pulled the converter forward before you had the bellhousing tight?

Not on this install. I turned the converter while pushing it in to seat it and felt it engage and what I thought seat in the transmission. I am here this morning to pull the engine, AGAIN, and check to see if it is truely seated. I always in the past have tightened up the bolts and than turn my attention to the converter studs

Ken
 
As Kurt said, if the converter has studs you'll need to line up the studs before pulling the bellhousing tight, you won't be able to do it afterward. The converter seats on 2 sets of splines and then the notch for the pump, so there are 3 engagements and it will sit back into the bellhousing like the guys already said.

You sure your flexplate isn't on backwards?
 
When the TQ is seated all the way you should only have about a 3/8" or so gap between the TQ and the bell housing on the pump side, at least on mine that was the case. If you can slide your fingers in this gap then it's definitely not seated all the way.
 
Pulled the engine this morning and than the converter. Inspected for any damage and it is OK. Reinstalled it and spun it a few times, I was rewarded with it engaging all the way this time:D. Engine is all bolted in and ready to start hooking up. Had a diffrent problem pop up, but thats another thread. Thanks for all the advice

Ken
 
I've been told by an old Ford mechanic that working on cars is like a puzzle. You don't need to force anything. If you are forcing something, you did something wrong and need to take a breather.

Glad you found the problem.
 
I've been told by an old Ford mechanic that working on cars is like a puzzle. You don't need to force anything. If you are forcing something, you did something wrong and need to take a breather.

Glad you found the problem.

That is very very true. I would fight something till late one night at the shop. Get pissed off, go home, come back the following morning and fix it in 20 minutes. The converters can be tricky Ken, even though they are so simple. You know and can Feel when they are seated properly....
 
i also agree, sounds like convertor. i had mine almost completely seated and i bolted it back up.... engine wouldnt turn over.... :eek:

had to seperate the two, spin/push the convertor about 6-7 more times and it clicked again. gave it a few more spins for good measure and bolted it back up. no problems. :p
 
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