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View Full Version : Cam Sensor Interfere W/ SC Belt



KillSwitchNY
03-06-2010, 11:37 PM
Ok so i just set my #1 cyl to the compression stroke and set balancer to 26ATC and dropped in the sensor (with the OTC tool) and it measure very close if not right on 30* to the left of the front of the motor, (used protractor to be precise with the angle)....

I put on an old march overdrive pulley (smaller than stock) at the same time i just did the cam sensor, not the belt is completely touching the sensor plug and harness :mad::confused: what the hell is going on???

decipha
03-06-2010, 11:41 PM
simple

reset the cam sensor and this time put it furthur in, doesn't matter if its at 30 degrees or not just as long as its in the correct position to get the right signal.

thirdbird
03-07-2010, 12:19 AM
The manual reads "30 degrees maximum", so you are safe bringing it in a tooth.

David Neibert
03-07-2010, 11:23 AM
The manual reads "30 degrees maximum", so you are safe bringing it in a tooth.

Decipha is correct. Restab the scyncro stalk.

David

KillSwitchNY
03-07-2010, 11:31 AM
thanks alot guys, i didnt bother setting the 26* timing again, just turned the crank till the OTC cam tool was set in the sensor and popped it out and went 1 tooth over and it clears just fine now.

unfortunately, i buttoned everything up to finish up my leaking timing cover or water pump (not sure which it was) and when i filled the coolant, it started pissing out of the very left side in the same spot. Still not sure if its the pump or timing cover :mad:
this is rediculous i have to pull it apart for the 3rd time. All i wanna do is drive it :(

92sclikenew
03-07-2010, 11:54 AM
thanks alot guys, i didnt bother setting the 26* timing again, just turned the crank till the OTC cam tool was set in the sensor and popped it out and went 1 tooth over and it clears just fine now.

unfortunately, i buttoned everything up to finish up my leaking timing cover or water pump (not sure which it was) and when i filled the coolant, it started pissing out of the very left side in the same spot. Still not sure if its the pump or timing cover :mad:
this is rediculous i have to pull it apart for the 3rd time. All i wanna do is drive it :(

are you sure it isnt leaking out the lower intake and down to were your seeing it.

KillSwitchNY
03-07-2010, 12:08 PM
are you sure it isnt leaking out the lower intake and down to were your seeing it.

im not 100% but im pretty sure its the water pump, Its leaking worse now than before i replaced it. before this project began, it would only leak out under pressure. Now it flows right out just by filling the system. i think something might have gotten messed up. Its an A1 Cardone pump and it may be a defect, i got it with a pulley bolt hole tapped crooked too.

XxSlowpokexX
03-07-2010, 01:54 PM
did you use the proper gaskets? and silicone? Unsue if various WP gaskets are different for the 3.8 but I know I had that issue with my sbf a few times

KillSwitchNY
03-07-2010, 04:11 PM
did you use the proper gaskets? and silicone? Unsue if various WP gaskets are different for the 3.8 but I know I had that issue with my sbf a few times

i usually use gasgacinch, usually works great. I was thinking about silicone'ing the everliving Sht out of it tho. last night it was2:30am, i been working on it since 5 and i was cold and aching. SOOO angry when it leaked again :mad: all i wanted to do was drive it last night.

decipha
03-07-2010, 07:04 PM
i know exactly how you feel, i bought a 92 5spd a few weeks back that was wrecked, after replacing the radiator support, fenders, bumper cover, bumper, and adjusting everything accordingly so it looks perfect and you can't even tell it was ever wrecked even if you pop the hood and snoop around :p, i put the radiator in and started filling her up, she was leaking like a muther at what appeared to be the timing cover, i was so fed up that i just let the car sit until that weekend, i finally started inspecting it and found that the water pump was shot. Changed her out and been supercoupin' ever since. ;)

66k miles and hopefully a full life ahead of her

KillSwitchNY
03-09-2010, 02:19 AM
you guys are mint.... I knocked my cam sensor 1 tooth back and it clears the belt AND the car started right up....

Unfortunately.... i buttoned everything up and was ready to roll.... started filling up the coolant and ppsssssshhhhh..... LEAKING AGAIN!!!!!:mad: took all the accessories off the front i.e. belts, tensioners... etc... turns out the brand new water pump has a fracture right thru it. so yeah damnit... got new gaskets again and put my old pump back on, (rock auto is gonna get this one thru someones head).

i have another issue tho. I know the valvetrain was dry cuz i did an oil change after some water got in the pan. I started it and it sounded like the entire valvetrain was going to explode.... Clicking and Clacking like crazy. Basically like lifters and rockers with no oil.
I do have oil pressure and after letting it run for a few seconds the noice calmed down but is still noticeable. Any ideas whats up?

Oh and what if i turn my cam sensor 1 more tooth inward? (plug would be about parallel to the font of motor) because the sensor plug is actually sitting in between the SC belt and i feel if the tensioner bumps a little it might hit.

thirdbird
03-09-2010, 12:35 PM
Clicking and Clacking like crazy. Basically like lifters and rockers with no oil.
I do have oil pressure and after letting it run for a few seconds the noice calmed down but is still noticeable. Any ideas whats up?

Oh and what if i turn my cam sensor 1 more tooth inward? (plug would be about parallel to the font of motor) because the sensor plug is actually sitting in between the SC belt and i feel if the tensioner bumps a little it might hit.

If the oiling journals cavitate/empty out, then its a good idea to prime it(turn oil pump counter clockwise) with a drill and a 8mm straight hex bit (has to be a long one).
The noise is oil not making it's way up to the heads.

As long as crank/cam is in correct location, you can set cam sensor anywhere it wont hit anything else.
the tool sets it to ~10*atdc automatically.
I would check it with a light and spark output plug by DIS removed if no alignment tool.

KillSwitchNY
03-10-2010, 01:13 AM
Guys, thanks so much for answering all my questions! after 3 grueling weeks i got my bird flyin tonite.

unfortunately it seems like there is still a tiny tiny coolant leak somewhere. but it is much better than when i first started. im thinking its a buried heater hose or something.

anyway, while im here... i put on the new March 10% SC pulley, the car feels so much more peppy off idle:D.... only thing that worried me was when i was screaming down the road at about 14.5-15 psi and near 5500rpm the car stuttered and bucked till i let off.... im very scared of blowing a gasket with the added boost and stock cats. any ideas on what would make it act like that? you think there would be any belt slippage w/ just a slightly smaller pulley (tensioner seems to have taken up most of the slack)

1 more thing, the valvetrain noise was a false alarm as i expected, after a few mins of running the motor oiled itself back up and no more noise.

David Neibert
03-10-2010, 01:22 PM
any ideas on what would make it act like that?

Sounds like it's running out of fuel.

David

KillSwitchNY
03-10-2010, 04:27 PM
Sounds like it's running out of fuel.

David

Ah please nooo!
I have a 255lph forced induction walbro
Stock injectors
It looks to be maxing out at 16 psi... Then it starts to putt putt putt at high rpm or in low gear with a load...

Also do u guys think its a time bomb with this type of boost and stock cat/resonator w flowmasters?

Going to be installing magnaflow cat/pipe/resonator setup with dual 2.5" pipes to flowmaster super 44's in a few months

Mike8675309
03-10-2010, 05:15 PM
What did you gap your plugs at? What plugs are you running? And do you have a tune and/or a wideband sensor?

You could be running out of fuel, as well you could be blowing out the spark, or fuel fouling the motor.

KillSwitchNY
03-10-2010, 05:38 PM
Plugs are. Ngk G power platinum.. They are like stock. Maybe a bit better. Stock gap. No tune or air/fuel gauge.... Car is pretty much stock besides the pulley and a cold air kit and flowmaster muffs

Ira R.
03-10-2010, 05:40 PM
Plugs are. Ngk G power platinum.. They are like stock. Maybe a bit better. Stock gap. No tune or air/fuel gauge.... Car is pretty much stock besides the pulley and a cold air kit and flowmaster muffs

The answer to your questions are yes, yes and yes. ;)

We'll go over it all later :D

Ira

David Neibert
03-10-2010, 05:59 PM
Plugs are. Ngk G power platinum.. They are like stock. Maybe a bit better. Stock gap. No tune or air/fuel gauge.... Car is pretty much stock besides the pulley and a cold air kit and flowmaster muffs

If it's stock, then power peaks at around 4700 rpms and you really shouldn't be revving it to 5500. With stock heads and cam my supercharger belt started slipping like crazy at 5300.

I wouldn't go any higher than 5200 rpms until you free up the exhaust..especially the resonator.

David

KillSwitchNY
03-10-2010, 06:02 PM
I could be wrong on the rev #'s. Its an auto so whenever it shifts, it shifts.

sinhumane
03-10-2010, 06:31 PM
i would back off on that overdrive for now. get your cooling and fueling in check before adding overdrive.

<----- this guy learned the hard way... ;)

KillSwitchNY
03-10-2010, 07:03 PM
i would back off on that overdrive for now. get your cooling and fueling in check before adding overdrive.

<----- this guy learned the hard way... ;)

yeah, i was thinking im just going to put the stock pulley back on for the time being :( . i just had it at about 17psi on the parkway home, only for a few seconds though. didnt buck or stutter this time. very confusing. But do i require a tune to run that high? and are the stock 36lb injectors enough? magnum powers told me that all i would need when doing his 15% kit would be a 255lph pump. never mentioned tuning or anything.

also, has anyone dropped boost by doing a raised top and high flow exhaust? Just wondering, cuz in theory it would be more volume less boost right?

Tim Groth
03-10-2010, 07:13 PM
yeah, i was thinking im just going to put the stock pulley back on for the time being :( . i just had it at about 17psi on the parkway home, only for a few seconds though. didnt buck or stutter this time. very confusing. But do i require a tune to run that high? and are the stock 36lb injectors enough? magnum powers told me that all i would need when doing his 15% kit would be a 255lph pump. never mentioned tuning or anything.

also, has anyone dropped boost by doing a raised top and high flow exhaust? Just wondering, cuz in theory it would be more volume less boost right?

A tune isn't required to bolt on and go but to get the most out of your upgrades and to make sure AF is right, its a good idea.

Freeing up the exhaust will reduce boost #s... a raised top probably will have little effect.

-Tim

Mike8675309
03-10-2010, 07:55 PM
If you want to continue, I'd tighten up the gap on the plugs. I'll say it so someone can correct me if necessary, but I recall the stock tune is generally really rich under wot. Though some cars work out to start leaning out too.

I would be more worried about those RPM levels with the stock SC torque converter.

XxSlowpokexX
03-10-2010, 10:05 PM
One of my sc;s ran a 16.6 shifting at 5000 and a 15.4 shifting at 5500..Needless to say the stock tach may not be accurate..Only one way to find out. Go to track