Engine Rebuild Question(s)

Raymondo

Registered User
I am getting things ready, part list, pricing, etc., to rebuild my engine and have a few questions I am uncertain as to the answers. My plans are to bore the block 20 over, port the heads and intake, install a Comp cam - stage 1, Wiseco Piston and Rings, ARP studs throughout, King Bearings, Scorpion roller rockers, and use a late model Supercharger. Here are my unanswered questions:

1 - MAF and Throttle Body, what size do I want to use?

2 - Injectors, what size here as well?

3 - Plugs, stock type?

4 - Dyno, I am under the impression I will need hit a dyno are the rebuild, correct?

Thanks in advance.
~Raymond
 
-75mm TB and 76mm C&L MAF with a sample tube to match injectors.
-I'd recommend going with 60# injectors these days if you can afford them.
-I run Autolite 103's coppers at 40 thou and have been for several years now (most folks run 35 thou). You should change them out every year though.
-You need a tune, the dyno is a tool to help tune a car, but its not a requirement.

Fraser
 
Fraser,

Thank you! Any suggestion on who to get the Throttle Body from? 60# injectors? WOW...was think more along the link of 44s or 48s.

If I do not dyno, what's the best way to tune?

Thanks again!
Raymond
 
Fraser,

Thank you! Any suggestion on who to get the Throttle Body from? 60# injectors? WOW...was think more along the link of 44s or 48s.

If I do not dyno, what's the best way to tune?

Thanks again!
Raymond

For the throttle body, you can usually find them in the Classifieds. If not, head over to SCP and pick one up there.
60# injectors can be found on SCP as well, but it'd probably be cheaper to go and talk to Dave Dalke about getting a set of 6.

A dyno is just a tool like Fraser mentioned. Most people road and dyno tune.

-Corey
 
Power Products makes a pretty good TB for our cars. Fire an email off to Dave Dalke and he can get you setup with the parts you need.

Since the 60's are so good these days and are very accurate even at very low pulse widths in idle and part throttle situations, you might as well get them, then you won't have to worry about them for quite some time until you get up to the huge numbers later. The older style injectors where very bad and very sloppy at idle etc and it was usually very hard to get them tuned in and people where forced to run the car in what they call open loop.

I tune the cars on the road here where I live because I'm out in the country, plus I have the drag stip 10 minutes down the road. The closest dyno to me is 2 hours away.

Fraser
 
Ray, there is a SCT dealer/tuner in the Memphis area--no word on how he is though. I'd second the 60s, cause IF I'm thinking right my 42s will be of no use if I go and get heads/cam. Since there is almost no real difference in price (when looking at new) get the 60s
 
Alright, thanks guys! I'll do some shopping and also contact Dave. If anyone has manufacturers and part numbers for the TB and Injectors I would appreciate it.

As for the tune/dyno there is a shop here that'll dyno my SC for $400...but was trying to find a better solution.

Raymond
 
Alright, thanks guys! I'll do some shopping and also contact Dave. If anyone has manufacturers and part numbers for the TB and Injectors I would appreciate it.

As for the tune/dyno there is a shop here that'll dyno my SC for $400...but was trying to find a better solution.

Raymond

Best person to dyno/tune your car will be Dave Dalke.
 
Install difficulty?

Not too bad, but definately something you don't want to do again if you can avoid it. Basically have to drop the exhaust, then the tank, remove the sender assembly, and follow the directions to change the pump.
 
Actually, once you have the fuel tank out, pull the rear seat and the carpet and cut an access hole for the fuel pump in the future so you can get at it with the tank in the car.
 
Actually, once you have the fuel tank out, pull the rear seat and the carpet and cut an access hole for the fuel pump in the future so you can get at it with the tank in the car.

Really???? what are you doing that requires a fuel pump change so often there is a need to cut a hole in the floor? seems to me dropping the exhaust and tank once every ten years or so wouldn't need so drastic a modification...just curious..................Dan
 
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