Whats a bottom end rebuild cost an SC owner
- Thread starter Tony8470
- Start date
I went all out and had a shop build it with a 4.3L stroker kit from Supersix Motorsports.
The kit came with pistons, rings, rods, stroker crank, and bearings. The shop I went to did a .050 bore for me and built the bottom end.
All out like that ran me almost $4,000 when all was said and done. No idea what a stock rebuild would cost.
The kit came with pistons, rings, rods, stroker crank, and bearings. The shop I went to did a .050 bore for me and built the bottom end.
All out like that ran me almost $4,000 when all was said and done. No idea what a stock rebuild would cost.
DrFishbone
SCCoA Member
I'd be interested in this too... I ended up simply refreshing the bottom end on mine, but I always wondered the parts costs involved with a the fancy pistons, rods, arp fasteners, etc.
forged pistons from wiseco $522 shipped. forged h beam rods from c.a.t. 315 shipped. rods came with ARP bolts. pistons came with the rings, pin and locks.
stock s/c rod and main bearings, 60 dollars shipped. new oil pump around 200 bucks. boring the block 100 bucks, balancing the crank 100 bucks. hot tanking and magnafluxing the block, free.
comp cam extreme energy 2 with pushrods and roller rockers 400 bucks.
all the seals/gaskets and head bolts a little less than 100 bucks.
and I'm going to throw another 120 bucks into the mix just incase I missed anything.
In total my built engine costs 2,000 all said and done.
(edit): I forgot to include the oversized valves and valve springs. They are 150 for the set of both. so figure around 2100 for my motor.
stock s/c rod and main bearings, 60 dollars shipped. new oil pump around 200 bucks. boring the block 100 bucks, balancing the crank 100 bucks. hot tanking and magnafluxing the block, free.
comp cam extreme energy 2 with pushrods and roller rockers 400 bucks.
all the seals/gaskets and head bolts a little less than 100 bucks.
and I'm going to throw another 120 bucks into the mix just incase I missed anything.
In total my built engine costs 2,000 all said and done.
(edit): I forgot to include the oversized valves and valve springs. They are 150 for the set of both. so figure around 2100 for my motor.
Stupid Canuck
Registered User
A lot less than it did a few years ago.
Sealed power ceased production of the stock replacement hypeuretic pistons before Wiseco (and Dave) came out with the "stock" forged. In between, the only choice was the long rod combos, which was about $1200 and required rebalancing.
Were you thinking of reusing the pistons, and not align-boring? How about grinding/chamfering/polishing the crank? Milling the heads? MLS gaskets and ARP studs? etc....
Refreshing the bearings is nice but not a rebuild. What's the mileage?
Sealed power ceased production of the stock replacement hypeuretic pistons before Wiseco (and Dave) came out with the "stock" forged. In between, the only choice was the long rod combos, which was about $1200 and required rebalancing.
Were you thinking of reusing the pistons, and not align-boring? How about grinding/chamfering/polishing the crank? Milling the heads? MLS gaskets and ARP studs? etc....
Refreshing the bearings is nice but not a rebuild. What's the mileage?
Tony8470
Registered User
I have some new heads getting done. New cam. All new gaskets. Etc... Everything except the bottom end has been looked into and paid for.
I'm thinking when I get the bottom end done it would be a good idea to replace the pistons. Pistons are gonna need milled for the larger valves. From what I have read is the rotating assembly is stout already. If I don't need the fancy stuff for 400hp then I won't get it.
rzimmerl
Registered User
I have about $350 or less in my rotating assembly (thats without the billet cam, timing assy.,gaskets, etc..). Just did a rering job on a seasoned early shortblock. New bearings, new Total Seal Classic Race Rings (not gapless), windage tray, and has been working good so far. 400 has been done before on a stock rotating assy.
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XR7 Dave
Registered User
Stock 89-93 connecting rods are rubber. You can tie them in knots by sticking a large screwdriver through the pin bores and applying moderate pressure. I've seen perfectly good running SC motors come in with 1, 2, or 3 bent connecting rods. That they run up past 400rwhp is a matter of pure luck.
94/5 rods are much better.
My experience is that 350rwhp is about all an M90 is going to make reliably regardless of what you do with it, and attempts to push it beyond that level can result in short block stress levels that exceed the 450rwhp level without the associated net power results.
Ask Ricardo how much be paid for his. His is a 94 shortblock with forged pistons. The pistons will be the last part to break in that motor.
94/5 rods are much better.
My experience is that 350rwhp is about all an M90 is going to make reliably regardless of what you do with it, and attempts to push it beyond that level can result in short block stress levels that exceed the 450rwhp level without the associated net power results.
Ask Ricardo how much be paid for his. His is a 94 shortblock with forged pistons. The pistons will be the last part to break in that motor.
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