SC breakin engine startup! DEATHBIRD LIVES!!!!!!!

flynbrd

Registered User
Ok if you watch the video any thoughts on why its not starting. The gas is 3-4 years old about 2 gallons but I added 3 fresh gallons today to mix. I'm going to take a fuel pressure check tomorrow. The fuel pump could be dead because I'm not hearing it at all. Any other ideas as to cause? the firiing order seems right

Passenger side 123 Drivers
564

Here's the link

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqiUmvq_7IQ

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MqiUmvq_7IQ
 
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Hard to say from the video, did you clearance your crank sensor to accomodate the reluctor ring on the harmonic balancer? If the upshift light stays on when cranking you have no crank sensor signal. That is my first obvious thought. It sounds like it wants to fire, so that makes me think you are getting spark and gas(whether its junk or good). Remember the gas in the fuel line is probably nasty so you might want to disconnect that just to let some of the old gas out.

The important thing on vaccum lines is that the fuel pressure regulator line goes to the return plenum and so does the bypass valve(both see the boost side. Otherwise, I don't think anything is a huge deal for being able to start the car. Btw, did you install an adjustable fuel pressure regulator? If so, you have to adjust the pressure for that. The fuel pump should cycle for a few seconds when you turn the key to the run position, if it doesn't then the pump is not working. If it does cycle, you should have some pressure but possibly not enough to start the car. That would indicate the trying to fire symptom
 
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Firing order is right, and I set the crank sensor to be a business card width from the trigger ring. I have a spare crank sensor perhaps I should swap it out.

Update
I tried starting the car while staring at the upshift light

1.Turn key on
2. Engage starter
3. Engine cranks
4. Upshift light blinks
5. Engine cranks alitte more
6. Starts for 1/2 a second
7. Engine dies

Does the upshift light blink mean problems with the crank trigger. I imagine it could have been damage when they disassembled my motor.

Also I disconnected the cam sensor and tried to start it. No luck.
 
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Firing order is right, and I set the crank sensor to be a business card width from the trigger ring. I have a spare crank sensor perhaps I should swap it out.

Update
I tried starting the car while staring at the upshift light

1.Turn key on
2. Engage starter
3. Engine cranks
4. Upshift light blinks
5. Engine cranks alitte more
6. Starts for 1/2 a second
7. Engine dies

Does the upshift light blink mean problems with the crank trigger. I imagine it could have been damage when they disassembled my motor.

Also I disconnected the cam sensor and tried to start it. No luck.

not sure about blinking, i remember when my crank sensor went out the shift light came on and stayed on while cranking the engine over. once and replaced it and to current day the light goes out completely once it starts cranking over.
 
i agree with out a good crank sensor I dont think the pump works.

only the time to prime the system when key is first switched on. then no crank signal no pump after that.

have you tried to simply push the schrader valve on the fuel rail while cranking? that will eliminate the fuel idea..

that upshift light is a concern also.

my SC did same thing when I installed the motor this winter and in my case I had a wire come off the new pump I installed in the tank.

but a fuel pressure test will confirm or pass off that idea.

will the car start if you press the gas pedal when it does start to fire?
 
The up shift light should go out as soon as you start cranking, and stay out. If it blinks and stays on then you have an issue either with the crank sensor itself or the wiring to the crank sensor.

Focus on that problem first before you start chasing the fuel problem since the motor is not going to run even if the fuel supply is working properly.

Fraser
 
not crank sensor or fuel pump

Today I swapped out the crank sensor for a new one I had for years now. I chipped off the engine paint the install left on the trigger ring. I'm sure my old sensor didn't enjoy getting hit by runs in the paint. I hooked up the passenger side ground from the engine to frame. Previously I was running battery to driverside engine mount ground.(both sides are grounded now). The engine acted the exact same way as before. I left my foot off the clutch and turned the ignition to the start. This allowed me to hear the fuel pump working away just fine. Upshift light is off for the most part. I'm thinking bad fuel right now. Tomorrow I'll drain the tank install a new fuel filter and try again. Where can I ground out the fuel pump relay so I can drain the tank from the fuel filter?
 
another update!

Ok one problem down! The fing ignition switch is not holding the car in run position. The spring pushes it back to far so it kicks off the engine. I can hold it just after the start disengages and keep the engine running. It runs real rough and I have to use the gas pedal to keep it going. There's no vacuum at idle, only at 3k did I see about 15psi for a second then it died. Anyway time to fix the ignition switch.
 
Today I swapped out the crank sensor for a new one I had for years now. I chipped off the engine paint the install left on the trigger ring. I'm sure my old sensor didn't enjoy getting hit by runs in the paint. I hooked up the passenger side ground from the engine to frame. Previously I was running battery to driverside engine mount ground.(both sides are grounded now). The engine acted the exact same way as before. I left my foot off the clutch and turned the ignition to the start. This allowed me to hear the fuel pump working away just fine. Upshift light is off for the most part. I'm thinking bad fuel right now. Tomorrow I'll drain the tank install a new fuel filter and try again. Where can I ground out the fuel pump relay so I can drain the tank from the fuel filter?


Ground the marked terminal of the EEC test port to keep fuel pump running with key on engine off.

fuel%20pump%20test.gif


David
 
renaming project to deathbird.

I feel that calling this startup breakin project deathbird is fitting considering its killing me. Here's a run down of what I've done

1. New battery
2. New crank sensor
3. Flushed Fuel out, new 91 octane and fuel filter
4. Ignition switch replace (why the motor was cutting out)
5. scanned for codes (none) startup test passes
6. Replace ignition DIS module (old unit failed on threshold, now the motor can idle but very rough)

Plans for tomorrow.
1. check plugs for fuel foul. (ill be angry if the damn dis module caused them to foul due to bad timing)
2. Replace plug wires with standard set (cant tell if my 9mm svomotorsport wires are connecting to the spark plug well. seem loose on plug)
3. Remove supercharger and video record my vacuum line layout, then reassemble.
4. Check TPS voltage


Any suggestions?

Btw on the cam sensor install, I'm 98% certain I had number 1 at 25 degrees atdc with alignment tool. The only way for me to check now is to remove passenger valve cover, wait for cylinder 1 intake to open/close then watch on the balance as 25 degrees atdc lines up at the pointer.
 
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plastic teflon seals.

update: tps voltage was at .58, now after a few mods and adjusting its .95 cold

I managed to get the eec to make the car finally idle without me playing with the gas pedal. The eec learned just enough to maintain idle while I check for vacuum leaks. Sure enough its sucking air on the bottom side of the manifold inlet elbow to lower IC tube. Once the engine cools I'll loosen the bottom bolt and retighten it. Leak was bad enough that when I get it with carb start stray the engine roared up perfectly.
 
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finally, THE CAR LIVES!

Finally after

1. New crank sensor
2. New Ignition key switch
3. Fuel Flush
4. Checking wiring, vacuum lines, firing order
5. New Ignition module
6. Voltage TPS set to .95 from ..45
7. Resealing IC tubes

The car now purrs at 1.5k rpm for warmup then slight lope from the cam at idle 900 rpm or just needs to breakin more. Tomorrow I'll video record the true breakin, getting to operating temp and holding there.
 
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