Please help me and my situation!!

Head Gaskets

Needs Head Gaskets! Get MLS. Gaskets from Fel Pro They are the best. You will most likely need to have the head decks milled. You will also need new head bolts, they can only be used once. Search the forms on Head Gaskets and head studs, the best way to go!
 
thats what i was figuring. thanks so much. could that be the reason its getting so hot? or no? i know the white smoke was the head gaskets witch are $83.99 for the full set for the top half of the engine. also the head studs are going to be 16.99 for ONE side. and i figure ill need a fuel pump also and thats $101 and some change. $216 all together. thanks so much again. if you know anything else that could help let me know

Nate
 
Head Gaskets

Our cars are noted for blowing head gaskets, nine times out ten it's because the cooling fan fails and or the temp sensor/ gage gives a false reading. The temp sensor goes bad and reads fine but all the wile the engine is cooking. These cars run hot as it its, you need to get a 180 Tstat, I use one from a early model ford 302 mustang engine. The stock Tstat is a 195 way to hot for me. There are two temp sensors on the engine, the one on the Tstat housing is for the gage the other one that is on the #1 cyl bank on top of the intake is for the fan control. Thats the one that goes bad! The fan has two speeds, high speed runs when the A/C is running low runs at normal driving and shuts off above 45 MPH. You said that you are going to change the fuel pump, do you mean the the water pump? It would be wise to do so that way you know it's good, get a good one though better to spend good money once then bad money twice. Make sure that the rad is good no leaks and that is flowing and not full of junk. I would go with the studs and MLS head gaskets by Fel Pro they are more money but they are the best! the stock replacement gaskets are OK but they will fail over time if you plan on doing any mods to the engine. The head studs are much stronger then the stock bolts and last forever, you will never have to change them also they have a higher torque value then stock bolts. My car has a Coy Miller stage 2 engine 396 RWHP 488 ft lbs torque, 14 lbs of boost,(it brakes parts!) MLS head gaskets lasted six years before they went, do the research on the MLS gaskets and head studs before you dive in. These cars are not easy to work on and not to many people will even touch them, I restored my car from the ground up it took three years, truck loads of money and two years of research before I even opened the hood. Once you learn how to work on these things there not so bad, all the info you need is on this site, use the search tab for the gaskets and the studs you won't be sorry. Like I said better to spend good money once then bad money twice.
 
yea, when i took out my tstat i drove it 5 min away to get beer, ended up whistling out of were the tstat goes. i was lazzy and didnt put a diff gasket in for that. just kinda hard to afford all this when i just got laid off and i have to pay rent.. but thanks so much im just going to get it out to my moms bf's garage and start ripping it appart. is there anything i should know before i start taking it apart. or is it ok to just take it apart. there is like a "how to change head gaskets" on this board right? anyone willing to let me call them if i have any questions? lol
 
Head Gaskets

I wouldn't RIP anything apart until you have the money and parts you need to do the job. It is not good to take them apart and leave torn down for a long time. You will have to take the heads in to a machine shop to have them checked and resurfaced, that will be around a $100.00 or so. you will need to find out. You should also get a Ford shop manual, not one that you buy at the auto parts store you need the REAL DEAL! It will save you a world of hurt! look for one in the for sale post's or place a add in the wanted post's. If you have never had one of these cars apart then you need to find someone where you live that is knowledgeable, these cars are not easy for a novice. If you have never done head gaskets on another car I strongly advise that you seek help! You can write me at supercoupe38@hotmail.com Mark
 
i ordered the set of gaskets today, also ordered the head studs. how big of a deal is it if i don't take the heads in? what do they do to the heads in detail? would i be able to do it? i most likely will i'm just wondering. Ive got the car taken apart for the most part. just gotta get the headers off and the valve covers. got everything else out of the way. this isn't as hard as it seemed, but it is still a pain in the A#%. the bracket for the power steering took us a wile just cuz we couldn't find the bolts right away. but that's all good now and out of the way. thanks for all your help. ill let you know about any more progress i get too.

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Remember that the stock head bolts are torque to strech, and on top of it all you have to angle torque them as well. I am not sure how the torque is when you stud the heads but that is one thing to keep in mind.

The more you know or learn before youstart, the better off you are. These cars are complex and not cheap, But you gotta pay to play.

Best of luck bud.
 
Heads

The heads must go to a machine shop, unless you want to do it all over, like right after you drive it around the block!!! The Machine Shop will Pressure Check them for leaks or any cracks from overheating then they check the decks/ mating surfaces to see if they are warped, witch they most likely are! Otherwise you wouldn't be doing this in the first place. The heads are placed on a Milling machine and the decks are cut flat so that new gasket has a perfect seal!
 
This sure is a nice site and you guys are very good for helping with the right advice for some one getting into it for the first time. Alto this one isnt for me I thank you all for helping as you do. Very nice!!
 
I guess I didn't see any indication of head gaskets. Certainly it doesn't hurt to do them, but you could still have overheating issues when you are done.

Since you are digging into it, I recommend also replacing the water pump, unless you are sure it was already done in the last 40,000 miles. It would suck to get it all done and a month later it starts weeping out the weep hole.

At idle, or cruising around under 40mph, if the cooling fan doesn't come on, engine temps will get really hot. The radiator is not big enough to get rid of all that heat without a fan at under 40mph speeds.

Forcing the fan to run all the time can lead to failure of the fan motor.

Just make sure you take it easy and be methodical in how you approach the issues on your car.
 
At idle, or cruising around under 40mph, if the cooling fan doesn't come on, engine temps will get really hot. The radiator is not big enough to get rid of all that heat without a fan at under 40mph speeds.
Forcing the fan to run all the time can lead to failure of the fan motor.

the fan runs on the high speed all the time. ive changed everything else cept the water pump and the radiator. so if i have overheating problems its one of those. but yea i guess ill have to send the heads in..

thanks guys
nate
 
Maybe the shop might have a set done (mine did). I paid $400 for remans with new guides, seal,s and a complete valve job, (Like new). All heads from 89-95 are the same to the best of my nolege.

By the way, what is the torques and process on studs for the heads?
 
Head Bolt Torque

The head bolts torque @ 60 ftlbs if I remember right. The studs torque @ 80 ftlbs. search the forums to be sure, you will also find the sequence. Note these are final torque values.
 
I would highly recommend replacing the radiator or at least take it to a competent radiator shop and have them look at it.....

Rust in the overflow tank is not a good sign.....:eek:
 
ill be asking more questions as i get further. but for now, is there anything i need to know abou taking the valves out? i dont leave them in right? lol just sucks cuz my moms bf works in indiana now at gm so hes only here on the weekends. so its just me working on it during the day. and i really dont wanna mess anything up, hence the reason im asking so many questions. :p:p:p

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I would highly recommend replacing the radiator or at least take it to a competent radiator shop and have them look at it.....

Rust in the overflow tank is not a good sign.....:eek:

totally agree If the rad is partially clogged (Which im sure it is if your seeing rust in the tank) you will still have overheating issues which will lead to re-warping the heads again. After my first headgasket change I still had high temps a new rad fixed it.
 
The head bolts torque @ 60 ftlbs if I remember right. The studs torque @ 80 ftlbs. search the forums to be sure, you will also find the sequence. Note these are final torque values.

The head bolts are also angle torqued too! Thats what I am talking about. What is the prosedure in torqing done the heads when using studs?
 
when removing the rockers and the push rods and you need to keep them marked for their location so you can put them back in the same spot. Same goes for the valves, retainers.
 
head bolts

I called the place that would be doing my heads. they said i could just leave my valves and springs in the heads and just give it to them.got the valve covers off, so now how do i get the heads off? seeing as you guys are talking about angle torquing them.. what are the actual specs so i don't mess the bolts up? i just take them off with a socket wrench then torqe them when i put them back on is what your saying?

:confused::confused::confused:
 
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