any Tranny experts

I have an aod and tried to rebuild it myself put all new clutches
and a art carr converter.
The problem is there is no nutrall and park seem like it is putting a load on the motor like it might want to do foward and reverse
don't move till i rev up the rpms.. 123 moves the car but not untill the rpms are up a little.

is this fixable without taking the tranny down or is it internal?
I followed the book when i did this it seemed like everything was going together nice.

one more thing when we tried to start the car after the rebuild
the car wuold not crank over like it was binding up. But then we loosen up the bell housing bolts and it started.


Any ideas

you may have a clearence issue inside the trans. (by the way every time you take the trans out, you get way faster, I can take it out by my self in less than 2 hours now. hahah) did you try to turn the output shaft while the trans was out, it should be moderatly able to turn. but i'm not sure on all this, because how could bind up inside be relieved when you loosen the bell housing bolts. is the torque converter the only thing that isn't OEM??? maybe its a bit to thick, but as for problems with driving and rpm untill engagement, maybe the torque converter is wrong. and last thing, did you put all 12 quarts of oil in. also, did you let it idle a while before driving, and also sit with parking brake on and go up and down through the PRNDL and sit in every gear for a couple seconds, with going to N in between. do this for about 5 mins.

i don't know what else. call art carr.

jim

alright

First of all what stall converter is that. if higher then your rpm's will go up. I know you know that but thought I say just in case.
Also I have talked with people that have bought a torque converter and was the wrong size. Meanin to wide causing to much pressure on the front pump and hopefully it doesn't crack. That in turn puts pressure on the rest behind the pump and also the shaft in the torque converer might be another thing. First of did you spin the tranny when you got it rebuilt. I mean the front two shafts individually trying to spin them. If all seemed to smooth then the torque converter has to be it. If you had measurements on how far it is supposed to stick out then you could measure it. Tranny shop might tell ya. i don't have the specs because I put stock back in and didnt' worry about that.

I have rebuilt mine also and with the valve body is very delicate when being bolted back on. I mean you don't just torque them they have to be torqued in sequece and also in inch pounds and not foot pounds. When you got done with the rebuild did you measure end play of the tail shaft. Also did you soak the friction disk in fluid a good 15 minutes before install. Also you need to measure the end of the disc and the c clip you put back in. If they are tight that will cause a problem with not enough room making it seize like it is.

Ok I need to know if there is just a reverse or just drive or both ( the 123 that you are talking about) I am guessing that the car only goes forward. In this case you need to drop the pan and take off the valve body and line up the shaft in the valve body. The one that controls the shifting. Let me know if you have no idea what I am talking about and i will exsplain more.

Well that's a some of what it could be.

Raymond

also,
check in the engine compartment, the cable downshift cable, its the one that has that big plastic block on it and can make adjustments against it. theres a little cap at the end of it crimped to the wire, make sure there is no slack on the wire. if there is when you open the pan, next to the shaft that controlls the shifting, there is a little spring that you have to bend down and around and let it rest against the seperator plate, you should be able to see where it goes.

sorry i don't have pictures
anyway this should have little to do with your problem but just thought i would mention it

jim

re

Ok talked to my Dad today and told him what i did heres what i got.


When i did this i had the motor and tranny out of the car.

step 1 I bolted the converter to the motor.
step 2 I bolted the tranny to the motor.
step 3 I did not have the converter seated right
and was causing it to bind.
I started to take out the tranny tonight. how far should i go?
I guess i should take it apart to see if there is any damage.
Hope the new converter is not cashed!!!


any suggestions? Thanks Chris

oh oh

You should take it all the way out. If it an AOD the converter has to slip into three different shafts, plus the seal. Make sure you didn't hurt the converter? It is in all the way when you can't slip a finger in between the bell housing and the torch converter. You usually have the jigle and spin it at the same time to get it to seat. You will feel and see it slip every time.

ow ya

I would if I was you take it all the way out because you need to see if it cracked the front pump. You don't need to take it apart but just look at it visually and if no cracks check all arround and mainly at the back for cracks in the case.

Well at the time you put it together the first time did you hear any snaps or anything to the sort? If not then good nothing major.

spin those shafts and see if they are smooth and has a little force when spinning.

After you looked it all over then put the torque converter back in the AOD and make sure it seats all the way my by what the others said. Wiggling it in and spinning it.

Well those are some thoughts.

Raymond

tranny problem

Your problem is in "step 2" where you bolted the converter to the engine before installing the trans. You cannot do this on ANY automatic transmission, it will bind or 'stack' the pump. This is not unique to the AOD. You have to install the converter on the transmissions shaft, spinning it as you push it on the splines. there is more than one set of splines it has to line up on (2 or 3 not sure on the AOD) but the principal is the same. THEN you install the trans in the car, bolt up bellhousing bolts first and then bolt the converter to the flexplate. If you started it when it was installed the other way you very likely ruined the pump to i'd at least check that out while the trans is back out.

tranny

Chris

What's going on with the tranny and all?

Raymond

tranny

Hey guys thanks for all the input. Got the thing out a
few days ago and the converter looked ok thank god or $600
bones down the drain. I figured I should have someone look at
it so i took it to a place called Bill transmission here in Dayton
he seemes like a ok guy. But however didn't even know that AODs
could be beefed up, kinda scared me. But I let him go ahead an rip her apart, he found that the gears in the pump were a bit munched and that the very first set of cluth pak were burn up.
this is because when i replaced the clutches myself I didn't go
deep enough into the tranny. My fault there, other than that
should have the thing done tomorrow. I can't wait because
i did a HI PO rebuild on the motor and it should really put out some HP but only go a few weeks to enjoy before i have to put her away for winter.

I'll keep you guys posted i'll have her dynoed as soon as i get her broken in and should have some 1/4 mile times also
shooting for low 12s.
Thanks guys
Chris