Installing Motor Mounts

cntinuum

Registered User
Information from this site is helpful. Finding helpful advice is a challenge since there is so much info that the information can be just noise because there is so much data to sift through.

Is there anywhere on this site that gives a blow-by-blow on how to do R&R the mounts? I have seen posts that have asked this question, 2002-2003 time frame and this question was not answered.

I have yet to find a thread that actually describes the process to do this job.
It would be nice if there was a tab for Articles and this contained "how-to" on maintenance and upgrades.
Searching the Tech forum with "install motor mounts" gives these results
What can I expect with this setup???
Engine install FAIL.
Need opinions on bottom end knock
Cross Tower Brace Interferece
questions about solid motor mounts?
Motor install
Electrical Gremlin
My vibration issue.......
need some testimony from the 351 swap guys
should i gap to .035
serious help with shift linkage!?!?!?! Please help!
Engine swap possibilities
Aluminum rearend buildup
SC Swell car/tough to work on!
AJE K Member ~~~.
General Troubleshooting Lesson Learned
solid vs hydraulic motor mounts....
Longtube header users..a few questions.
Inherited XR7 Some questions
Anybody's SC sound like a Helicopter?
95 Idle Issue
95 SC Coming back together
Fuel Injector O-rings
Changing Motor Mounts

Now, this article actually talked about someone changing the mounts. If your occupation is a mechanic or you have been doing work on this car for decades, it is obvious what needs to be done.

I would think than when doing this job, it would be a great time to check/reseal the I/C tubes so they are airtight. I am sure mine aren't. I have an oil drip on the return tube. What is talked about is changing the plugs and wires.

Pictures, I am camera challenged. The current cameras are so good, they make me look good and they are cheap.

Parts come and go on this car. Did BT Motorsports ever make the mounts they were developing? Post dated 05-17-2003, 04:33 AM.

Okay, I will get off my soap box. Yes I am willing to be part of the solution if human resources are needed.
Your Humble Servant,
-Dave
 
If you want the best MM avail then get a hold of CHuck in the group buy section and see if he still has a few laying around.....

If you want solid stock looking mounts then you can get them from autozone. SCP also sell a set but I think it raises the engine a slight bit.


Its hard to tell you a procedure because you can do them from the top or by lowering the K-Member. If you are doing them from the top you likely need to remove both accesory brackets and both IC pipes....it is almost as bad as doing head gaskets.

If you lower the Kmember you need to support the engine while you drop the whole K-member and suspension assym


You just need to take some time out. You will need to rent a PS pulley remover if you are going from the top.
 
i just changed my motor mounts, first time doing it, and i'm not really the mechanically inclined type. for the driver side, i removed the IC tubes, IC, and PS accessory bracket, then jacked up the motor from the oil pan and was able to remove the bracket for the MM, then just reverse the procedure to put it back together. The passanger side was pretty much the same. remove the intake tube, TB, and JS accessory bracket, and it's the same as the driver side. then reverse procedure to put it back together. Had both sides done in about 3 or 4 hours.
 
You just need to take some time out. You will need to rent a PS pulley remover if you are going from the top.

i didn't pull my PS pulley or pump, i left it all attached to the accessory bracket, and kinda just laid it on it's side in front of the motor.
 
If you want the best MM avail then get a hold of CHuck in the group buy section and see if he still has a few laying around.....

If you want solid stock looking mounts then you can get them from autozone. SCP also sell a set but I think it raises the engine a slight bit.


Its hard to tell you a procedure because you can do them from the top or by lowering the K-Member. If you are doing them from the top you likely need to remove both accesory brackets and both IC pipes....it is almost as bad as doing head gaskets.

If you lower the Kmember you need to support the engine while you drop the whole K-member and suspension assym


You just need to take some time out. You will need to rent a PS pulley remover if you are going from the top.

Does anyone know which mounts {SOLID} are taller or shorter? When I do my engine swap, I want to go with the solid mounts but want the shortest ones available. I will be running a raised SC top.
 
As far as I know the solid ones from Autozone are stock height, SCP are slightly taller....

I am not sure what Spinning Wheels carry.
 
i didn't pull my PS pulley or pump, i left it all attached to the accessory bracket, and kinda just laid it on it's side in front of the motor.



Do you still have that black triangular plate that is bolted to the same bolts that the PS is bolted to then extends to the Water Pump studs. If you still have it then you will have a hard time freeing up the main bracket since you cannot really get a socket down there unless you remove this black bracket.
 
As far as I know the solid ones from Autozone are stock height, SCP are slightly taller....

I am not sure what Spinning Wheels carry.

Does anyone have the measurment on a "stock" height mount? Has anyone tried to lower thier engine via altering the mounts? I'll check old threads but just wondering if I can find the answer here.
 
from the top

Do it from the top, I did my first set from underneath and would not wish that on many people.
You will need to remove and thus reseal the IC tubes, get some reusable gaskets if you don't already have them.
Any replacement mount is going to break again, solid, fluid, mn12, scp, period. Unless you have some kind of torque strap or other to limit engine travel under load.
The redesigned mount that Chuck was selling is absolutely the best thing since sliced bread for the SC!
If you can find them they are more than worth it, they don't break.
Just start taking off parts, starting with the plastic cowl pieces. Good time to do plugs, wires and replace any ground straps going to the mounts.

I'll hang around and drink beer and tell you what to do if you want to drive to Austin, TX.

good luck
MB
 
Do it from the top, I did my first set from underneath and would not wish that on many people.
You will need to remove and thus reseal the IC tubes, get some reusable gaskets if you don't already have them.
Any replacement mount is going to break again, solid, fluid, mn12, scp, period. Unless you have some kind of torque strap or other to limit engine travel under load.
The redesigned mount that Chuck was selling is absolutely the best thing since sliced bread for the SC!
If you can find them they are more than worth it, they don't break.
Just start taking off parts, starting with the plastic cowl pieces. Good time to do plugs, wires and replace any ground straps going to the mounts.

I'll hang around and drink beer and tell you what to do if you want to drive to Austin, TX.

good luck
MB

Just received Email from Chuck W. His custom mounts ARE still available:
Email him. cwarren@indy.net
 
Do you still have that black triangular plate that is bolted to the same bolts that the PS is bolted to then extends to the Water Pump studs. If you still have it then you will have a hard time freeing up the main bracket since you cannot really get a socket down there unless you remove this black bracket.

Months back when i replaced my water pump, i cut it down the middle with a plasma then just put small welds back up it, didn't know if it was much importance. but when it came to remove that again for the bracket to come off, i zipped it off again with the plasma, then took a cut off wheel and got as close as possible to the PS pulley and got the rest off.
 
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