pure ignorance

lpfan

lpfan

Registered User
this makes me so angry this is stupidity one spark thats it slowpoke this is the one i just bought
 

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That's how many aftermarket fuel pump kits are. A spark inside the tank isn't as dangerous as you think. Fuel needs oxygen to burn, and there's hardly any in the tank.
 
man, you better bring that back, fast before the stupid rubs off of it. make sure you wash your hands.

maybe some heat shrink would keep it safe. not sure how heat shrink would hold up to fuel though.

and 96sc might be right about the oxygen part. if on a low tank though, it gets a spark that might do it, again might not. that boarder lines a myth buster thing. infact im gonna check to see if they ever did something on that.
 
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Not real nice connectors, but not an issue either. There's no difference between the connectors or the exposed terminals at the right in your pic.
 
DLF said:
Not real nice connectors, but not an issue either. There's no difference between the connectors or the exposed terminals at the right in your pic.
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There is one difference, and that is that the wires are able to flex ... and could therefore possibly come close enough to spark.

slowpoke said:
maybe some heat shrink would keep it safe. not sure how heat shrink would hold up to fuel though.
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Some types hold up and some don't. When I replaced my pump, I researched it. I wound up soldering the wire and using heat shrink ... I think it was PVC variety. I think if I did it again, I would have put an extra layer over the connection. Maybe 3 total.
 
ok then well on the positive connection a little bit of wire is exposed im thinging of soldering it and wanting to use heat shrink but how will that hold up to gas
 
Here's the last one I did (in my LSC). I used heat shrink connectors.
 

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ok if you guys say so i will leave it now to find why the pump is not getting power i thought it was burnt up but its not
 
in the trunk theres the inertia switch, i believe theres atleast 1 relay switch to for the fuel pump. i can check the pub to make sure. also try a continuity test on the wires to make sure they are all good. i also remember reading alot about the grounds and wire set ups for the fuel pumps in general being bad. but im sure you already went over that. ill also say from experiance when my fuel pump went out about 3 years ago, it to worked after i got it out. all the bumping around must have broken it from a bind or something. i did no wire work, and changed no relays. i put the new pump in and havent looked back since.
 
lpfan said:
the inertia switch has been bypassed before i got it im gonna test the relay
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IMO, that connection is not unusual in a fuel pump replacement. Usually heat shrink connectors are used. Before you condem the pump/relay/inertia switch, make sure to check the wiring for corrosion or breakage at the IRCM. That controls the fuel pump relay in the trunk. The positioning of the IRCM and sharp bends at the connector, make it easy to have a wire break and it look just fine, unless you unbolt the IRCM and visually look at the connector, you won't see the broken/corroded wire.
 
that is perfectly safe, heck mine burnt the wire through at the top of the tank, it got hot enough to melt the insulation off the wire and no flames or bang..

although I dont condone it the crimp connectors are just a cheap way to connect wires. the second pic is much better and a better repair.

heck BMW uses bare connectors in the tank, on pump side and top of connector..
 
Fuel is not a conductor, and there is not enough oxygen or pressure in the tank for any combustion to occur.

Is it quality work? No. Is it safe? Yes.
 
well figured it out finally it was the fuel pump relay
*kicks self in buttock*
 
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