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EATONBIRD

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Driving yesterday I started smelling raw fuel, Really strong! Pulled er into the garage and boom. Puddle started forming. It eventually stops. Bump the ignition to on a couple times to prime, starts pooling again. so its only when pump is runing, (line). grab a wheel chalk and start jacking it up. Its pooling around the passenger side of the tank, not on the driver side also. kinda tells me its on the passenger side in one of the lines. its around the three lines were the bends are going to front. How bad is it to drop these tanks? Do I really need to? Anyone had similar siuation? Im worried about the strap braking. What should I do? Its a 95 auto. Thanx for all help. Tim
 
Dropping the tank completely is a bit of a pain but no worse than other things we have to do on these cars...in addition to the four bolts on the straps there is a crossover hose that wraps over the driveshaft thats a bit of trouble to get loose. The filler hose and vent can be a booger too. If you've never done it before there might be a couple of curse words spoken before its over but it's doable.....................Dan
 
You'll have to drop the exhaust, and then the tank. Sounds like you may have a line that has a hole in it, the connector came off the tank unit, or the rubber O ring that seals the sender to the tank is bad.
 
good inputs. I wasnt aware of the crossover strap. The tank is almost empty, 1/8 tank ayway so thats good. Hopeing it is just a seal. Do the staps break often on these cars. It seems a little rusty but not horrible. Are the bolts extremely awfull to ge to? I just need a little guidance. Thanx again! Tim
 
good inputs. I wasnt aware of the crossover strap. The tank is almost empty, 1/8 tank ayway so thats good. Hopeing it is just a seal. Do the staps break often on these cars. It seems a little rusty but not horrible. Are the bolts extremely awfull to ge to? I just need a little guidance. Thanx again! Tim

Remove exhaust, put a floor jack under the tank and unbolt the straps, then slowly lower the tank. Tank should fold down far enough to access the lines without unhooking the fill or crossover line.

Based on what you have said, I'm betting the the pressure or return line has a hole worn through it, back near where it makes the turn to connect to the top of the fuel tank.

David
 
If it's only when the pump is running, then it's a line, not a seal. (As David N. said.) The plastic lines must have been pinched at assembly and have been wearing through ever since. On my car, I caught them before they wore through. They are worn down, but still intact ... so I moved them to avoid further chafing and I haven't had any other problems.

Actually, I suppose that I was quite fortunate. I discovered the chafing ... and a destroyed fuel pump connector ... because the fuel pump died. And I also solved a fuel leak I had for a while, which was from the O-ring at the pump and sender assembly. But that was never enough to leave a puddle.

Anyway, I think you will be able to use one of those nylon fuel line repair kits that let you splice in a new section. But you will probably have to zip-tie the lines a certain way, or shield them, to prevent it from happening again. And definitely check the electrical connector at the tank for deterioration. And if you have the tank down ... you might want to replace the fuel pump, if it's original. And in so doing, you would replace the O-ring at the sender.

I don't think you will have too much trouble with the straps. I live in a rust belt state, and that wasn't the real problem. Getting enough space to work was difficult, with no lift. And getting at the hoses was tough ... I would up replacing the crossover hose because it was deteriorated and didn't survive the removal. Removing the exhaust was difficult due to the rust. But once the exhaust was off, it all went okay.
 
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My 95 has steel lines, maybe they were replaced at one time though. Here's the deal, if you buy new ones from ford they will be steel. Thats what I recommend. Same thing happended on my 89, return line
 
Whats that cost roughly? Planning on dropping the tank soon. May see if its simple enogh to run rubber fuel line if not so long of a strech. I wish it would have happened when I had more cash! I would have ran all new with a new high volume pump and be done.
 
I know my 92 had a safety recall for that problem. All they did was zip tie loom over the plastic lines where they run up to the tank. Check at the dealer and see if your is covered by that.
 
Dropping tank approx. 10" on jack allows access to everything. Factory clamps at filler neck (2) and drivers side connection for crossover line should all be orientated to you for removal. (looking up from passenger side-if unmolested)

There is a small dimple in tank- front passenger side approx. 2" in to send lines up to sender away from side. The filler necks on top of tank will keep the bulk of the line out of contact with floor.

Replace bolts loosely till all are in. Leave front passenger strap to last, again with the back bolt loose enough to flex mounting bracket into position.

I used a light coat of WD 40 on filler neck metal. Area is tight with no room to speak of to leverage the 2 lines on. Double check clamp orientation to ensure access point for tightening.
 
If swapping out pumps I would be inclined to drop complete.

The locking ring can be difficult to turn and you need to block off tank to get it to started.

I ended up reusing the O ring. The new one supplied was so thick that I coundn't get ring to sit down deep enought to start lockup.

Keep in mine this tank had already been upgraded to a 190 once and the ring was in like new condition.
 
Removing the tank isn't too crazy. You just need a jack (with wood to spread the load) or a helpful friend to let it down and maneuver it. By raising the entire rear of the car about as high as a standard jackstand will go, you will have enough room to slide the tank out from under the car. Then you can get the ring off, do the pump, etc..
 
Can the pump/sending unit assembly be removed/replaced by lowering the tank VS removing it?

Yes...but only if the car is jacked up high enough. This how it looked when switching to dual pumps on my 93 SC.

dualpumps.jpg


David
 
Thanks David,
Jacking up the car that high wont be an issue. I just want to get to this stupid fuel gage issue. And replace the FP while im there as a precautin since it just rolled to 118.003
 
Not that bad!!!! Fixed. Plastic line was pinched/cranked. Called dealer to see about recal, No active recals. I know this was mentioned earlier but mine is a 95 so that could be why or it may just not be an active anymore. All is good for now. You know when this happened, the tank was about empty. :eek:
 
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