Rough acceleration with shudder 5 Spd manual???

BlackbirdSc94

Registered User
Someone suggested I make a new thread on the topic so here we go

Car has just came back from the shop, work done: New motor and trans mounts, Valve cover gaskets, Rear main seal, New clutch slave cylinder and throw out bearing, new oxygen sensors, two rear rotors and one new rear caliper and pads.

I was supposed to have got new plugs and wires but the dum dums at Washtenaw Auto Care in Ypsilanti Mi had my car for a month and still couldnt complete all that work on time not to mention various screw ups Ive found. Im about to report them to the state, they even left one of my parking brake cables disconnected, didnt put the insulation back under my console then when I said something to him about it when I went back (just the insulation, hadnt found the cable yet) he tells me, the guy that already gave him 2300 dollars the day before that he can take care of it tommarow his schedule is busy right now. I said but none of those people have paid you yet and you have my money and this is your guys mistake, He just says sorry man Ill get it tommarow......... BITC****!!!!! :mad: I just left and thats not everything that was wrong. I havnt been back up there because I dont want to do something I might have to answer for:mad:

Hopefully the stat will make them give me my money back or at least make them do the rest of the work for free or a partial repayment.
 
Ok so under normal driving conditions on the street, what rpms and how should you launch to not damage the clutch. Also if im trying to aviod wheel hop is there a certian rpm for that.

My speedos broken too so does anyone know what rpm is 35 45 and 50 mph in the gear they pull hardest and the "overdrive gear"

Is it normal to get on the gas at 1200 to 1500 rpms and feel a slight shudder in the steering pedal and shift nob, just had my clutch serviced and the motor and trans mounts done and Im wondering if its related to that or is this just something that these cars do since I bought the car with those problems. Only thing is I dont recall it doing that before I had the car worked on even needing new mounts

You guys are gonna start calling me the revival king if I keep finding these old threads


Start a new thread about your shudder. it's not normal.

to avoid wheel hop, don't spin your tires. if the tires don't spin, they won't hop.

when driving on the street you don't usually call it launching. Thus you use whatever RPM and clutch position is necessary to move the vehicle from a stop.

Whenever my speedo has not worked I pretty much just go and drive the car down a road with other people and pace them. Then I call that the RPM. You can try this calculator if you want: http://golenengineservice.com/calc/calcrpm.htm


oh and will not pushing the pedal to the floor damage the clutch, cause itll shift after like a inch or two of travel. I usually go half way down though

No it won't hurt it. BTW, what's a "steering pedal" ?

David

I'm just guessing, but I think there is a comma missing between those words.....Dan

Dan,

I thought it might be drifting lingo for gas pedal, but the missing comma makes more sense.

David

definitly missing th comma, I think its a engine issue, its become a sometimes thing and when the car dosnt do it she pulls hella hard, its like you go the flu and your chest is congested, then you cough and breathings a bit easier. Its like the car just goes easier when its not shuddering and the shudder only happens inbetween 1500 and 2000 rpms under gas but the dash shakes the shift knob shakes so does the steering wheel and I feel it in the pedal too

That almost sound like your in too high a gear for the rpms. Is this happeneing only in 1st when you first start out? Andis it happening regardless of how hard or soft you release the clutch?

Ira

.

sometimes it happens in first too not often though, but in the mornings when its cool and the cars just warmed up a bit she runs great under the same conditions, I can have the car in third doing 25-30 mph. I dont know cause my speedos not working but I pace people. Anyway the car will be at like 1500 rpm and when I ease in on or hit the gas hard she just goes smoothly and stronger.

When its running funny the car will have the shudder and be slightly slower to pick up speed but after you get past 2k she pulls and accelerates smoothly.

Then sometimes itll be running smoothly and Ill go to speed up while doing like 35-45mph and shell take off but then its feels like a sputter but the sputter isnt a bog down but like a small extra burst of power. It only seems to do that after Ive been driving for a while or its real hot out

.............................
 
oh and can I use the Maf from my 94 auto on the 91 manual just to see if she runs anybetter or are they diffrent in a bad way
 
low power@ lower rpm's

if you think that car goes fast now at the higher rpms, wait till you replace that harmonic balancer.:eek::eek:.
mine did that for a whole month, and I was just thinking tune up. cam sensor but, no! the bolt was broke and the bal. cracked in the usual place.
I hope this not your actual problem though,. just sounds so familar.
 
anybody got pics of what/where to check on the balancer and bolts or do I have to take it off to check??? Sometimes it runs fine the others its the boo boos. Is the balancer a steady thing or a come and go type.

On another note Im eating coolant and cant tell where its going. Did a pressure test on the coolant system when she was warm and it held pressure. I had been seeing a small leak on the left side udner the radiator when I got the car but it hasnt done that in a while. No smoke or funny smells from the exhaust and the coolants clean, gotta verify the oils clean but Im pretty sure the last time I checked it was after this started.
 
Did the shop drain and refill your cooling system when they did the work? If they did your missing coolant is most likely from trapped air in the cooling system being purged when the coolant gets up to operating temps. Then when the engine cools back down coolant in the overflow bottle is sucked into the radiator to replace the air that was purged out. Not sure if that's what your seeing but it's a possibility. BTW, if at all possible avoid taking your SC to automotive shops and even Ford stealerships for work. They can do more harm than good and it's really not that hard to do most of your own work if you want plus you'll save a ton of money. If you ever need a hand with your SC let me know, I'm not to far away from you.
 
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Did the shop drain and refill your cooling system when they did the work? If they did your missing coolant is most likely from trapped air in the cooling system being purged when the coolant gets up to operating temps. Then when the engine cools back down coolant in the overflow bottle is sucked into the radiator to replace the air that was purged out. Not sure if that's what your seeing but it's a possibility. BTW, if at all possible avoid taking your SC to automotive shops and even Ford stealerships for work. They can do more harm than good and it's really not that hard to do most of your own work if you want plus you'll save a ton of money. If you ever need a hand with your SC let me know, I'm not to far away from you.

whats the most coolant it could possible eat before I should be worried, it hasnt been over heating. Thanks for the offer, Ill definitly have to get with you on that. I have two that need work this one and a 94
 
On my SC's draining and refilling the radiator, filling the overflow to the full hot line which the owners manual calls for. After I get all the trapped air out that I'm going to get out the overflow will be almost empty. It takes me about five heating/cooling cycles to get it all out or to get all the air out that's going to come out. Whenever the radiator is drained and refilled your going to get trapped air in the system..no way around it.
 
On my SC's draining and refilling the radiator, filling the overflow to the full hot line which the owners manual calls for. After I get all the trapped air out that I'm going to get out the overflow will be almost empty. It takes me about five heating/cooling cycles to get it all out or to get all the air out that's going to come out. Whenever the radiator is drained and refilled your going to get trapped air in the system..no way around it.

So are you saying that it should go empty up to five times???
 
No, I'm saying keep an eye on you overflow bottle and add a 50/50 mixture of coolant and distilled water if or when the level goes below the full cold mark. Check it with engine cold. If trapped air is your situation you should see the coolant level in your overflow stabilize (stop going down) within a week or so. Always check cold.
 
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i put headgaskets on my sc around may 16th it ran warm for a while , i think it took a month to get all the air burped out of the cooling system now it runs around 1/4

ralph
 
Problem solved!!!

Well the rough acceleration and shudder have been solved. My fuel filter was clogged and crushed, the last person to put one on (if it wasnt the original) tightened it down with a hose clamp so tight that they caved in a side of the canister. I tried to blow air threw it and it was like pressing your two fingers against your lips real hard and blowing where as the new one was like blowing threw a jumbo straw.

I also had the pcv hose that goes from the driverside valve cover to the intake tube disconnected but the shop left that one undone when they did the gaskets.:mad:

she runs smooth as butter now all the way up to 120+:D She was just starving for fuel. If you dont feed your lady, your lady's not happy;)

Oh and I do have a leak in the radiator, but I dont understand how she held pressure when I did a pressure test. The thing didnt leak a drip on the floor when I did it either.
 
~~~ the problems back this again, went and got another filter just to be sure and its still running just like it was before I changed the filter the first time????

Now Im stumped
 
Codes in, any suggestions???

Maybe your fuel pump is starting to go.....


I was thinking that also, could it be the sending unit as well???

I ran the scanner on it and got back a few things
Fuel pump primary curcuit fault, secondary circuit too.

HEGO2 Hot exhaust gas O2 sensor running lean(Oh I also added a can of STP concentrated fuel injector cleaner and two cans of gas treatment to the tank if that might make the O2 sensors run lean)

10 Cylinder 1 out of balance

RPM change insuffecient during dynamic test

Intake air charge sensor out of range/something other about a vane (I think on the last part will verify soon)

theres one or two more I forgot to bring the book with me but thats what I remember of the top of my head

Couple things about the car, the fuel pump inertia switch has been jumped by some hack so I have to figure out how to rewire to stock and then solve the problem they had that made them jump the switch in the first place:(

In the morning it wont start to run funny until the temp needle gets to the N, everyday like clock work. Dosnt matter how long I drive, if I take it slow and dont heat her up real quick I can get a fair distance, If I let it warm up sitting there she runs like crap from the get-go
 
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