Bird with 208267 miles

Hey all, i'm new here, I've been reading all the advice for a few years,Well i got a 89 bird "Christine" and she's got a lot of miles, but she's ok, until tonight, Driving home the check gage light came on a few times but hasnt come on since! I was wondering about that and I havce already spent 6000 in repairs new clutch and cam sensor and crank sensor, and banancer, and all new brakes, So this winter i'm having my motor rebulit and a new tranny, I just put in a new oil sending unit a few months ago, so i don't think it would be the problem with the gage light, the oil pressure does go between the o and m but never lower, any help would be good, thanks guys Matt

Was it the "Check Gauges" or "Check Engine" light? The check gauge light generally points to a situation that requires immediate attention (high temp, RPM's, low fuel, etc.), the check engine light indicates the EEC has detected an "out of range" situation from a sensor. In most cases the EEC will attempt to make corrections by adjusting fuel, air, and other controllable components.

Did you notice anything unusual when the warning light came on?


The best thing you can do is invest in a code reader. Check the automotive department at WalMart, or go to your local parts store and see if they have one for your model year. Should cost around $30.00 for a basic unit.

What area of the country are you located? There are probably some other SC'ers near you that would be happy to give you a hand with your bird.

Contact me if I can be of any assistance.........

Another thought on the Check Gauges.

There are two coolant sensors on the car. One feeds the gauge on the dash, the other the computer. I had a wire on one of the coolant sensors break due to the heat turing the wire into custy plastic.

Check and make sure the wire is still connected to the sensors.

The lower sensor I believe is for the gauge. the upper sensor is for the ECM. And the third circle is for the bleed screw for the cooling system.

thanks guys, everything seemed fine, not nosie or anything when the light came on, it was the check gages light, I'm in Illinois, Theres going to be a lot done to this car over the next 2 yearsm everything new, My uncle who works a shop said by the time i am done with ever thing i want done, abd to replace everything but the body and inside i will spend around 28,000.00 she will have all stock parts except for the exsust, this is my first car so, I am worried about some rust on the bottom drivers side floor, the wires are showing throughm i'm getting that fixed this winter, while i am driving a 1977 buick , if anyone as has any ideas let me know, I will go get the code reader on friday, thanks, matt

Check those wires that I mentioned. If the engine can't get the right coolant temp you will get poor fuel economy as it may run in cold start mode all the time.

Well she hasn't done it since the other night and I've put 250 miles on her, so, i guess she fixed her self,.?? I think she has a mind of her own. Thanks

dood.. if you spent 6000 for a clutch, cam and crank sensor.. can i get some of your perverbial wallet cash.. heh.. can you say overkill on the price.. i really hope your exaggerating or there were otherthings done.

there was more then that

2 gs to get her, 400 on all new brake parts, cranks and cam sensor, harmonic balancer, and it was 1856.00 for the cluth and tune up and the cam sensor and power streeing hose. and 100 for new tires, 25 for new rim, and other stuff. matt

how much fuel did you have in the car, if you were a little low the check gauge light will come on and then go off until you get under 2 gallons then it will stay on, maybe you were low on fuel and went up a hill or sometihng and the fuel headed tords teh back of the tank and tripped the light..

just a thought

or it could be a bad oil sender unit, those are notorious for failure and are nothing more than a switch, oil pressure = n-M on gauge, no pressure = Check gauge light, maybe you just need to clean it

only other check gauge light is temp and thats pretty self explanitory, if the gauge gets too hot it comes on.

well the gas tank was full i hardly ever let it get past 1/2, except everyother tank, and i am replacing the oil sending unit soon, and the cool think she still gets 280 miles to the tank before the low fuel light comes on and 50 more after that, and all with with ovr 208860 miles, she's great, matt

SHE"S DOINH IY AGAIN

well alomost a year later the Check Gauge light comes on when i press hard on the brakes, so i am think brake fuild, but i check and its ok, and now that i know a lot more about these cars then i did when i first had it this should be easy, also the temp gauge was reading under the "n' and this is after 150 miles of driving in the country and with the air on, PLEASE help, my moms care is being stupid too, so on freaking car at a time please,

Matt

I'm not sure what would be causing the Check Engine light to come on when you apply the brakes... Generally, you would either see the BRAKE or ABS (or both) warning indicators flash when there is a brake related problem. It could be that the rapid drop in RPM's from hard braking triggered something in the ECU (computer). Maybe related to the IAC (idle air control) or TPS (throttle position sensor). If you can get to your local WalMart (or equivalent), you may want to pick up a cheap code reader (I paid about $30.00 for mine). They come in very handy when you are trying to diagnose a "potential problem".

The temp guages are notorius for providing "goofy readings". However, if you were traveling above 45 mph, the fan cuts off and the radiator uses airflow from the dam under the bumper cover. I always get lower temp readings while hwy driving, even with the A/C on, than I do with the fan on around town. You may want to check the contacts on the sending unit (next to the thermostat) to make sure they aren't corroded....

It was the check gauge light, and i know that i will soon need a IAC but one car problem at a time, if anyone knows anything abotu the older cars like a 86 olds cutlass, let me know it would be great,

Matt

Mike8675309 said:

Another thought on the Check Gauges.

There are two coolant sensors on the car. One feeds the gauge on the dash, the other the computer. I had a wire on one of the coolant sensors break due to the heat turing the wire into custy plastic.

The lower sensor I believe is for the gauge. the upper sensor is for the ECM. And the third circle is for the bleed screw for the cooling system.

Click to expand...

The lower circled sensor is the oil pressure sender. The middle circled device is the sender for the temp gage. The ECT sensor (for the EEC) is located on the pass side and not visible in the photo.

Yep, figured that out a few days after I posted that back in 2002. Wow, this thread got dug up didn't it.