failure to start

jeriley

Registered User
Got a little problem starting the car after I replaced an injector -- car won't start, at all.

So far, just for fun I've taken the belt off, tried a variety of unplugging of sensors, double checked my spark plug wires, made sure my contacts were good on the battery, etc etc etc but nothing has worked nor made it better/worse so far. I'm wondering if something else has failed and I'm not aware of it yet. I haven't dorked with the timing or anything goofy like that but I did go as far as yanking the valve cover on the driver's side -- was conerned I might have busted a valve spring. Everything looked happy.

When it attempts to start, sometimes it just gives up, but usually ... 2nd time on average, I get this glub-hickup-FSSSSSSS noise from the inlet and sometimes a mist of something. Makes me wonder maybe one of my tubes isn't sealed good?

I've posted up a vid (you'll need quicktime) here but I welcome any and all ideas. It's kinda big, ~20m for 15s of vid and its not really an mpeg, its 3pg (host doesn't allow 3pg)
 
Do you have the injectors plugged back in to the correct connectors, or you have bumped another connection loose in the process.

Is the upshift light on while cranking?
 
Did not view video.

Did you use shut off in trunk prior to disassembly.

Have you checked pressure off Valve. Gauge or wadded up cloth and depress with cloth over valve.

Any smell of gasoline indicating leak after previous start attempts. Injector may not be seated top or bottom. Rail pressure collapses with leak.

If engine was running fine prior and all is OK with above then it may be a case a retracing assembly, electrical and vacuum.
 
Do you have the injectors plugged back in to the correct connectors, or you have bumped another connection loose in the process.

Is the upshift light on while cranking?

yep, sure on the plugs and the up light comes on after but not sure if it's on while its cranking... will check

Did not view video.

Did you use shut off in trunk prior to disassembly.

Have you checked pressure off Valve. Gauge or wadded up cloth and depress with cloth over valve.

Any smell of gasoline indicating leak after previous start attempts. Injector may not be seated top or bottom. Rail pressure collapses with leak.

If engine was running fine prior and all is OK with above then it may be a case a retracing assembly, electrical and vacuum.
no.

is that the valve at the side of the plenum?

Yes but it varies ... sometimes it does, sometimes not. Injectors should be seated. Rail pressure was good (checked that and it shot out like hell)
 
yep, sure on the plugs and the up light comes on after but not sure if it's on while its cranking... will check


no.

is that the valve at the side of the plenum?

Yes but it varies ... sometimes it does, sometimes not. Injectors should be seated. Rail pressure was good (checked that and it shot out like hell)

sounds like ether wires could be mixed up.. :rolleyes:

or in the video you can hear the blower whine. even mine with the mods listed in sig dont have much blower sound till it is gotten on. sounds like it could have a vac leak. possibly after the blower.

other wise your gonna have to check everything over..
 
sounds like ether wires could be mixed up.. :rolleyes:

or in the video you can hear the blower whine. even mine with the mods listed in sig dont have much blower sound till it is gotten on. sounds like it could have a vac leak. possibly after the blower.

other wise your gonna have to check everything over..
Oh I would be pissed if that was it. Got a cross ref for the plugs? I got the Hayes manual but hey, never know

Forgot to mention there is a laundry list of upgrades but I don't think thats the blower you're hearing ... that's the starter (that zzzzzz sound)

...and I keep hearing vac leak. Damn, those are always a p.i.t.a.
 
Oh I would be pissed if that was it. Got a cross ref for the plugs? I got the Hayes manual but hey, never know

Forgot to mention there is a laundry list of upgrades but I don't think thats the blower you're hearing ... that's the starter (that zzzzzz sound)

...and I keep hearing vac leak. Damn, those are always a p.i.t.a.
thats the proper way double check it;)

http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showpost.php?p=452963&postcount=2

i also hear the higher whine you talk about im talking about that deeper blower whine it has. check the wires because i know one of those manuals are wrong. maybe both.
 
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did you break one of the wires for the harness that goes down the front of the motor to the cam and crank sensor? There is a ground in that harness that likes to break.

Make sure the cam sensor connector is on there good.

Also check all the harness connectors. Make sure the big one by the front of the blower is good and that the ones on the passenger side for the fuel rail are good.

Don't fail to take a hard look at everything. Just because you were working on the injectors doesn't mean something else might not have picked right now to fail. So back track the work you did, check it all, and once you are satisfied it is perfect, then start looking at other things that could cause it.
 
Why did you replace the injector? Did the replacement come with fresh o-rings?
#4 was dumping fuel and making a hell of a bunch of noise. Yanked the plug, was wet, smelled like gas (and had a friend spot check me, confirmed). Did a compression test just to be sure, checked out ok. New injector was an OEM and yep, came with new ring. Yay rock auto.

did you break one of the wires for the harness that goes down the front of the motor to the cam and crank sensor? There is a ground in that harness that likes to break.

Make sure the cam sensor connector is on there good.

Also check all the harness connectors. Make sure the big one by the front of the blower is good and that the ones on the passenger side for the fuel rail are good.

Don't fail to take a hard look at everything. Just because you were working on the injectors doesn't mean something else might not have picked right now to fail. So back track the work you did, check it all, and once you are satisfied it is perfect, then start looking at other things that could cause it.
All possible. I did have to basically strip that driver side of the engine so I wouldn't be surprised. Any tests with key on or something that I can verify those sensors are getting power?
 
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