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View Full Version : while the motors out why not put a higher stall conveter in



92sclikenew
07-05-2010, 08:47 PM
what would be a good suggested stall converter for my car..

i my self know nothing about picking one so looking for some advise..

my job has told me they can get me a higher stall converter for a fair price.

so while the motors out im thinking of doing so..

whats suggested..

my mods are my sig.

Dirtyd0g
07-05-2010, 08:48 PM
You got a dyno sheet on that thing? I'd be guessing 2800-3200 by the sig.

Alan

92sclikenew
07-05-2010, 08:51 PM
You got a dyno sheet on that thing? I'd be guessing 2800-3200 by the sig.

Alan

never seen dyno yet..:(

by the way this is for the street. if that matters when picking

Dirtyd0g
07-05-2010, 08:57 PM
If you kept it around 2800 and deleted the direct drive I think you would get the best all around performance.
Alan

92sclikenew
07-05-2010, 09:00 PM
If you kept it around 2800 and deleted the direct drive I think you would get the best all around performance.
Alan

what would be "deleting the direct drive" mean? i know nothing about trannys :(

David Neibert
07-05-2010, 09:18 PM
what would be "deleting the direct drive" mean? i know nothing about trannys :(

It's what most people refer to as a non locking converter.

David

92sclikenew
07-05-2010, 09:33 PM
It's what most people refer to as a non locking converter.

David

is that a complete swap or is other parts needed?

thanks!

David Neibert
07-05-2010, 09:40 PM
is that a complete swap or is other parts needed?

thanks!

There are non locking (no direct drive) converters built to work with the stock dual input shafts (I got mine from Lentech), but most require a solid input shaft which does involve a little work installing it in the transmission.

If using the stock style shafts, suggest upgrading the inner shaft with a hardened one...it just slides in and doesn't require dismantling the transmission.

I'm sure Alan can hook you up with either style.

David

rzimmerl
07-05-2010, 09:57 PM
2600-2800 be perfect, and you will need to add an external cooler. I had a 3000 lockup converter, and in the end I really didn't like it. First and second were nice with the stall, but cruising thru town you still get the annoying bog when in low rpm's and locked in 3rd. The trans I have going in has a 2800-3000 non lockup, and from talking with others that have the non lockup, I'm gonna love it. By the way its a non lock converter that uses the stock shafts, and the inner shaft has been upgraded to hardened. Alan should be able be to setup you up with everything you need.

RedSC93
07-05-2010, 10:06 PM
You should of picked up mine :)

Jerry

nickleman60
07-05-2010, 10:12 PM
Since the 4R70W's are electronic, Dave Dalke set mine up to not lock in 1st, 2nd or 3rd gears but to lock in OD when he was down here tuning my car and I love it.

fturner
07-05-2010, 10:18 PM
On an AOD there is no such thing as lock up, non lockup etc...... The electronic transmissions have locking TC's because the computer tells it to do that and the TC has the clutches and solenoid for that. The AOD TC does the multiplication thing during 1st and 2nd where you need it, and becomes directly coupled to the drive shaft and crank shaft using the inner shaft for 3rd and OD.

The only problem, and I consider it pretty big, in going with a 3000 stall convertor and getting rid of the direct drive.... talk about a BIG heat generator and wasting fuel if you are planning to cruise around alot.

These cars cruise around at around 2000-2200 rpm, which means that even in 3rd and OD, the TC is working ALOT harder and is "slipping" for the lack of a better word, which generates ALOT of heat and wastes fuel.

If you are building the car just for racing, then go with the 3000 stall, direct drive delete... but if you are spending most of your time cruising around and/or DD'ing the car, then keep the direct drive and go with a 3000 stall, even though the shift between 2nd and 3rd may feel funny at light throttle... WOT ain't going to make a difference anyway because the car will be way above the stall point when it does the 2nd and 3rd shifts.... just get the hardened inner input shaft if you go this route.

Fraser

Dirtyd0g
07-05-2010, 10:37 PM
You have to consider the big picture. Gearing make a world of difference. If you run a 3500 stall and 2.73 gears you will make terrible heat. On the other hand a 2800 stall with 4.10 gears is making the converter about pointless when cruising. on aod transmissions the gearing makes a huge difference in crusing rpms and transmission temperature. If your stall speed exceeds your cruising rpm by too much you will be riding on the converter theentire time, making tremendous heat. Converter diameter is a huge factor as well. I am not a big fan of 10 inch converter on anything that does not have a true lockup, the 9.5's are much more efficient.
Alan

Thomas A
07-05-2010, 11:53 PM
Just ask Alan to build you something similar to the one I have in the Cougar. It really woke the car up!! :eek:

Thomas

rzimmerl
07-06-2010, 01:13 AM
The only problem, and I consider it pretty big, in going with a 3000 stall convertor and getting rid of the direct drive.... talk about a BIG heat generator and wasting fuel if you are planning to cruise around alot.

These cars cruise around at around 2000-2200 rpm, which means that even in 3rd and OD, the TC is working ALOT harder and is "slipping" for the lack of a better word, which generates ALOT of heat and wastes fuel.

If you are building the car just for racing, then go with the 3000 stall, direct drive delete... but if you are spending most of your time cruising around and/or DD'ing the car, then keep the direct drive and go with a 3000 stall, even though the shift between 2nd and 3rd may feel funny at light throttle... WOT ain't going to make a difference anyway because the car will be way above the stall point when it does the 2nd and 3rd shifts.... just get the hardened inner input shaft if you go this route.

Fraser

Have you driven a car with 3000 stall with direct drive? Even with the AR it still is not fun to cruise around in. The 3rd gear RPM's are so low that you must hit the pedal to force a downshift to get it to move.

Dirtyd0g
07-06-2010, 05:13 AM
It really depends how stall is figured. Half of my job is not meeting a desired number but making a combination that works well with the other changes. People don't always get exactly what they order when it comes to stall numbers, I have learned if the combination doesn't sound right it probably isn't.
Alan

BlackbirdSc94
07-06-2010, 08:47 AM
Just get a 5 spd and shift when you feel and how you feel.....:D

Dirtyd0g
07-06-2010, 12:03 PM
Just get a 5 spd and shift when you feel and how you feel.....:D

It has it's ups and downs, a 5 spd will never multiply torque like a torque converter can.
Alan

kenewagner
07-06-2010, 12:51 PM
what would be a good suggested stall converter for my car..

i my self know nothing about picking one so looking for some advise..

my job has told me they can get me a higher stall converter for a fair price.

so while the motors out im thinking of doing so..

whats suggested..

my mods are my sig.

Alan built the one in my car. It is a 2800, 9.5" non locking converter. I was concerned that I would have to dip in to the throttle a lot to get the car moving but on level ground it is not even noticable. On a hill it becomes more noticeable and when loading on to a tilt bed trailer one has to dip into the throttle a lot more. I have not had it to the track so I dont know how much it will lower my ET. I installed a tranny temperature gauge and driving on the street, stop and go it runs about 210. The tranny fluid goes into the bottom of the radiator and than to a tranny cooler with a fan. The thermostat in the car is a 180 degree thermostat so you can see it does heat up the fluid. My car is not a daily driver so for me its not a problem, and Im not concerned about gas milage like someone who does drive the car to work. I do know stepping on the gas hard leaves me just sitting with a nice cloud of smoke as the wheels spin. I would go with what Alan recommends and ignore the 5sp comments you hear. They will be in your rear view mirror all the time anyway:D

Ken

92sclikenew
07-06-2010, 05:37 PM
Alan built the one in my car. It is a 2800, 9.5" non locking converter. I was concerned that I would have to dip in to the throttle a lot to get the car moving but on level ground it is not even noticable. On a hill it becomes more noticeable and when loading on to a tilt bed trailer one has to dip into the throttle a lot more. I have not had it to the track so I dont know how much it will lower my ET. I installed a tranny temperature gauge and driving on the street, stop and go it runs about 210. The tranny fluid goes into the bottom of the radiator and than to a tranny cooler with a fan. The thermostat in the car is a 180 degree thermostat so you can see it does heat up the fluid. My car is not a daily driver so for me its not a problem, and Im not concerned about gas milage like someone who does drive the car to work. I do know stepping on the gas hard leaves me just sitting with a nice cloud of smoke as the wheels spin. I would go with what Alan recommends and ignore the 5sp comments you hear. They will be in your rear view mirror all the time anyway:D

Ken

never 5speed.. if i went with a 5speed i would buy a whole 5speed car.:eek:

Dirtyd0g
07-06-2010, 07:47 PM
never 5speed.. if i went with a 5speed i would buy a whole 5speed car.:eek:

Smart man!