orifice replacement kit
- Thread starter flynbrd
- Start date
TbirdSCFan
Registered User
Cut out the old Otube section from the liquid line with a hack saw. the crimp mark on the line is where the center of it is. Lay the new otube on top with the Oring on top of the mark and the screen facing towards the front (the inlet). Make a mark on each end and cut out that section with a hack saw. Clean out the lines as best as you can and smooth off the cut ends.
Insert your new Otube into the cylinder. The arrow on the side indicates the direction of flow... you want the screen end of the otube to be on the inlet so that it will keep particles from clogging the tube. Push the smoothed line ends into the cylinder ends and tighten securely. The flared tip line section matches up to the screened end, the hose line section matches up with the outlet, or arrow point.
Install your new line and charge with r134 until it cycles at about 20psi on the low end. You may need to adjust the pressure switch on the top of the canister 1/8 turn at a time, if it won't go low enough (it wont.. go ahead and adjust it first). Take the connector off the switch, peer inside and turn the small screw ccw a bit.. make a note of were it was when you started and how much you've turned it. Your high end pressures should be around 2.5x outside air temp. I will let it run up to 350psi on a 100+ degree day to get decent cooling.
BTW, all this may not do much for you if you still have the original condenser. It just can't shed enough heat to work well with r134a.
Good luck.
Insert your new Otube into the cylinder. The arrow on the side indicates the direction of flow... you want the screen end of the otube to be on the inlet so that it will keep particles from clogging the tube. Push the smoothed line ends into the cylinder ends and tighten securely. The flared tip line section matches up to the screened end, the hose line section matches up with the outlet, or arrow point.
Install your new line and charge with r134 until it cycles at about 20psi on the low end. You may need to adjust the pressure switch on the top of the canister 1/8 turn at a time, if it won't go low enough (it wont.. go ahead and adjust it first). Take the connector off the switch, peer inside and turn the small screw ccw a bit.. make a note of were it was when you started and how much you've turned it. Your high end pressures should be around 2.5x outside air temp. I will let it run up to 350psi on a 100+ degree day to get decent cooling.
BTW, all this may not do much for you if you still have the original condenser. It just can't shed enough heat to work well with r134a.
Good luck.
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Ok two problems, first the emergency repair kit is lacking the directional arrow, I noticed that end has a small tapered opening. Second where do I cut exactly? If I'm guessing right its before the crimp/condensor side. The old one I cut had the tip part of orifice in the crimp of the tube and the larger screen towards the condensor side.
TbirdSCFan
Registered User
The orifice end should go in the smaller tapered end. The screen end should go facing the condenser. Just think about how the liquid flows, from the condenser thru the otube and into the evaporator, and it will make sense.
And you are correct.. cut the line right about where you mentioned. Doesn't have to be exact. within a 1/2" or so.
Got it done over the weekend. WHAT A NIGHTMARE! for the most part it was truly easy but Fing kit I got from napa had the wrong size conical locks. They would not slide over the pipe. In the end Napa had to take parts from another kit to get it to work. My a/c works so so, not sure what could be wrong with it at this point. It blows 70 degrees with outside temp at 100. Line pressure is 40low 330 high at 100 outside temp. I'm running new VoV currently, new parallel flow condensor, 143a, new compressor, liquid line, new dryer.
TbirdSCFan
Registered User
You may need to adjust the pressure switch as 40 is too high. Should be somewhere around 20 when it cycles. That should bring your evap's core temperature close to 32. You want it as cold as possible w/o freezeup. Be sure the cooling fan runs whenever the A/C is on.
As far as I can tell the compress with the max ac on does not shut off. I believe the system only has around 28 ozs in right now.. I suppose its time to have the professionals take a look and see if they can tune it.
TbirdSCFan
Registered User
On a 90 degree day, you should be seeing no more that 270-300.
Basically, while the compressor clutch is engaged and the engine running, the low end pressure should slowly and steadily drop until the clutch disengages. You want that to happen at the lowest you can get it w/o the evaporator freezing over. Thats around 20 psi. On the high side, as long as its making reasonable pressure and isn't too high, thats all you need to watch.
A rule of thumb for an empty system is to start with 80% of the original r12 amount. Mine came with 40weight-oz of r12, so 80% is 32weight-oz of r134a. Thats around 2-1/2 cans. If you don't have enough refrigerant in the system, it won't pull down or will short cycle.
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TbirdSCFan
Registered User
As long as your high end pressure isn't bulging the lines, I'd add more. You can add more in by placing the near empty can in warm water. Otherwise, it takes a long while for it to work its way in. 15 minutes or so with the engine running. As refrigerant is added, you should see it start to cycle lower and high end pressures should rise somewhat.
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TbirdSCFan
Registered User
Ummmm.. maybe.. I've run up to 350 on a 102+ degree day to get decent cooling.
When 102 heat's beating down on you, as long as it holds together and its blowing cold.. you tend to overlook it.
on a 102+ degree day to get decent cooling.When 102 heat's beating down on you, as long as it holds together and its blowing cold.. you tend to overlook it.
The formula I saw was "Roughly 2.25 to 2.5 times the temp in degrees F" for the high side, and my Malibu is 30psi on the low (below, and it's add / repair time).
So I've been worried about 20psi on the low side on the Cougar as I'm rebuilding the A/C.
Given 90F, about what should I see? Around 200 to 225? What would be a "OMG I'm totally frelled!" on the high side?
And given the gauges are Harbor Freight specials - I MIGHT have a set that reads high (Oh, gee, you reckon?)
RwP
So I've been worried about 20psi on the low side on the Cougar as I'm rebuilding the A/C.
Given 90F, about what should I see? Around 200 to 225? What would be a "OMG I'm totally frelled!" on the high side?
And given the gauges are Harbor Freight specials - I MIGHT have a set that reads high (Oh, gee, you reckon?)
RwP
get this for scary! after the auto shop filled the system my high side was hitting 550 due to the orange orifice and high amounts of 134a.(which I think killed my reman compressor ... currently running my stock one again cleaned up ) They filled the same amount of 134a to r12. hopefully the shop can find the plug. The ac shop told me today that evap core being plugged is near impossible. So I'm left with either bad suction line or defective condensor I just bought. Off chance the system is overfilled, If thats the case then I really really bled some serious amounts of a/c into 134a can I had connected. For my system to be overcharged the can had to be holding 24 ozs in a 14 oz can. .
... currently running my stock one again cleaned up ) They filled the same amount of 134a to r12. hopefully the shop can find the plug. The ac shop told me today that evap core being plugged is near impossible. So I'm left with either bad suction line or defective condensor I just bought. Off chance the system is overfilled, If thats the case then I really really bled some serious amounts of a/c into 134a can I had connected. For my system to be overcharged the can had to be holding 24 ozs in a 14 oz can. .