And the HG replacement fun begins!!

phils89sc

Registered User
Well, I am going to start my teardown this weekend in my 89SC. I got my 99 Taurus back on the road, so I can take my time. I guess it would also be a good time to detail up the engine bay and service my M90 as well with a good reseal and new fluid.

Where can I get a good deal on the ARP Head Stud kit? What is the benefit of using the ARP studs other than not having to keep buying new head bolts?
 
Here is what you need
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-233-4003/

They are much a simpler torque procedure then the torque to yield factory bolts requiring tightening, loosening, tightening, and degrees of rotation. You just simply torque them down and your done in increments of 45-65-85 ft-lbs., might want to search to verify those torque numbers.
 
Those are the studs I used also...

I'd still recommend the TTY factory bolts if 1) you're keeping the car mostly stock and 2) you ever intend to sell it.

There's nothing wrong with the factory bolts (new set of course) on a mostly stock car, it's just that the ARP set is a better choice if they "pay for themselves" by replacing the cost of multiple sets of TTY factory bolts. I can't remember the price of the factory bolts...$30-40 a set maybe? So if you are pretty sure you want to upgrade your heads in the future...or plan on driving the car long enough to possibly have to do the headgaskets again (hope not!), then the ARP set is the way to go.

Definitely use the stock fel-pro gaskets too btw.

Ryan does make a good point on the ease of installation too. The TTY bolts are not really much more difficult though.

Good luck with the headgaskets! It may seem intimidating at first, but it's not too bad...just stay organized and don't wait too long before getting everything back together. :D
 
Look at it this way.

the studs (arp or what ever) are a engineering solution
the TTY bolts are a accounting solution.

meaning that the studs are a far superior way (when done correctly) to the Torque to yeald bolt.

if you dont believe this read Corky Bells guide to automotove turbocharging. it explains in depth why a stud is a better choice for almost every engine. when you have a stud and tighten the nut down on top you are pulling directly on the stud in one direction. a torque to yeald bolt or any bolt is twist and pull movement and that is not as effective. this combined with the fact that the stud is made from better material. the 40 dollar difference is not that much.

plus if you ever plan on runing more boost or such later on you know that the head bolts, studs are there..

head gaskets are fun, just keep it clean as you can and read on the board others experiences with this. also zip lock bags for every components bolts help out alot
 
>the TTY bolts are a accounting solution.

Based on assembly line automation/speed/modernization/consistency/quality that was considered best for the manuf. process at the time.
 
>the tty bolts are a accounting solution.

based on assembly line automation/speed/modernization/consistency/quality that was considered best for the manuf. Process at the time.

plus they are cheaper all around.

And if the car makes it out of warranty the manufacturer doesnt care after that.
 
I can't imagine tearing down an SC engine and not putting it back together with ARP's. What's the price delta, like $40-$50? That's less that two tanks of premium.

If mine ever lets go (God forbid), it'll go back with ARP's, even though they're not original.

JD
 
If mine ever lets go (God forbid), it'll go back with ARP's, even though they're not original.

JD

Shocking. I would think you have a least 3 sets of stock OEM, still in the original Ford boxes, bolts. <grin>

Wish I had a few of those shocks you have up there...
 
Shocking. I would think you have a least 3 sets of stock OEM, still in the original Ford boxes, bolts. <grin>

Wish I had a few of those shocks you have up there...

The thing is, I'd consider those OEM bolts junk. Some thing, you just don't mess around with.

JD
 
I bought the studs and regretted it immediately, but used them. Well, one of the heads ended up being warped, so I broke down and took the heads off and sent them to a machine shop. Put them on and used the studs again, so basically they paid for themselves by not having to buy TTY both times.


Justin
 
I did what you did recently and also used a set of ARP's. Also while doing the job, I freshened up the sc, installed a set of ported manifolds. Make sure and pressure test the IC pipes when you are done. I had a huge leak at the IC elbow to intake manifold.
 
I did what you did recently and also used a set of ARP's. Also while doing the job, I freshened up the sc, installed a set of ported manifolds. Make sure and pressure test the IC pipes when you are done. I had a huge leak at the IC elbow to intake manifold.

Thanks everyone for the advice and encouragement. Luckily, I have another car to drive in the mean time. I will be starting this weekend.

Another question I have is how hardy are these heads? I am taking them to a machine shop to get them worked, but should I worry about any cracking? I know they will check for that, just wondering if they were prone to it?
 
Thanks everyone for the advice and encouragement. Luckily, I have another car to drive in the mean time. I will be starting this weekend.

Another question I have is how hardy are these heads? I am taking them to a machine shop to get them worked, but should I worry about any cracking? I know they will check for that, just wondering if they were prone to it?

The earlier heads were prone to cracking (before 88 or so). The years of these cars' heads do crack on occasion, but I have never seen it in person. I think, if they weren't overheated, they are probably fine. But I would certainly ask the machinist to check them out. It's cheap enough that I would have it done.
 
Phil,

You should also pickup a Haynes repair manual for about $20. It will come in handy for torque sequence on the heads and intake manifold and several other things.

David
 
Back
Top