No voltage from crank sensor after swapped in new sensor again

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kwikcoupe

Registered User
My car has given me nothing but problems these last few years so its down the road it goes. To do this however I need to fix it. Basically you start the car, upshift light is on constant but no starting. Sounds like the crank sensor to me as well right. After installing 3 new sensors from various places, Dealership OEM, Napa, Autozone Ive concluded thats probably not the issue. I checked the electrical out with a sweep analog gauge and at the DIS I have a pulsing signal from the cam sesnor but nothing from the crank signal. At the crank sensor harness connector I have constant power in but nothing out. Ive tried moving the sensor adjustment to either the upper limit or lower limit and nothing helps. If I cant get it going myself itll go to the dealership. If theres a good mechanic on here in the snohomish county washington area that want to make a few bucks let me know. Itll save me the tow bill to the dealership at least.

Im wondering if theres a common wire thats breaking, or goes out that I havent read about. Ive had this problem for years and appreciate the help. Thanks for the help. Im trying to find the link to the wiring checkout someplace. Im not super technical with fords issues but any help is greatly appreciated. Help save a low miles SC from junkyard please
 
kwikcoupe said:
My car has given me nothing but problems these last few years so its down the road it goes. To do this however I need to fix it. Basically you start the car, upshift light is on constant but no starting. Sounds like the crank sensor to me as well right. After installing 3 new sensors from various places, Dealership OEM, Napa, Autozone Ive concluded thats probably not the issue. I checked the electrical out with a sweep analog gauge and at the DIS I have a pulsing signal from the cam sesnor but nothing from the crank signal. At the crank sensor harness connector I have constant power in but nothing out. Ive tried moving the sensor adjustment to either the upper limit or lower limit and nothing helps. If I cant get it going myself itll go to the dealership. If theres a good mechanic on here in the snohomish county washington area that want to make a few bucks let me know. Itll save me the tow bill to the dealership at least.

Im wondering if theres a common wire thats breaking, or goes out that I havent read about. Ive had this problem for years and appreciate the help. Thanks for the help. Im trying to find the link to the wiring checkout someplace. Im not super technical with fords issues but any help is greatly appreciated. Help save a low miles SC from junkyard please
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I had this problem with my 92, turned out one of the vanes on the ring that sweeps through the sensor was bent and taking out sensors they changed the design in 93. once i found it i cranked the engine to position the bent vain at the bottom of the motor and used some small vice grips and channel locks to rebend the ring
 
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Yes the bolt is still in the balancer. The sensors themselves aren't being damaged by the veins but the veins also arent triggering the sensor to send signal to the DIS. Thanks for the thought though. Ive checked the balancer and its very solid even with no belts on it. Ill look into those trouble codes. Ive got the cheap shcucks code puller but it wont display KOEO or KOER codes. Anythoughts this may be part of the issue. Thanks for the help its greatly appreciated
 
>Ive got the cheap shcucks code puller but it wont display KOEO or KOER codes. Anythoughts this may be part of the issue.

Really...sounds like a tell to me.

Did you go thru the troubleshooting test yet...it will help confirm such issues.
 
Just went as far as I feel comfortabl;e. It says replace sensor but Ive already done that 3 times. new sensors every time and everything. from what I can tell. I dont have an led testlight but Ive got a few different analog meters and I got nothing on the blue wires
 
the vanes pass through the center of the sensor protrusions. I would guess it has less then 1/8th but more then 1/16th of an inch on all surfaces it passes by. When I swapped the sensor I didn't follow the how to because I thought I could do it easier.

I moved the pulley so the vanes were not in the way, loosened the 2 7/32nds screws with a long 1/4in drive socket. I was able to swap out the sensor in a bout 20 minutes this way by sliding it away from the crank pulley center and out of the way.. I in no way pulled on the wires, bent anything or did anything that I would feel harmful. Installation was in the reverse. Total time about 20 minutes. I checked all my fuses, inspected all the wiring i could and didn't see any damage. The engine bay isn't spotless but has no corrosion, rust or other junk. It has a little dirt grime over everything that washes right off your hands and I cleaned all connectors after /before connection. Thanks for all the help again
 
ok hope this helps but not sure myself. The fan for the radiator comes on whenever the key is one? Is this like a limp mode symptom? I called the dealership to see about getting it in for them to check it out for me and they said to check to the fuel pressure? If the up shift light is on while cranking isn't that automatically the sensor? Thanks for the help. if I cant get it figured out by tuesday its going into the shop and Ill let you know what they come up with.
 
The car went to the local dealership today and they did every test they said they could. The end result was everything checked out and the PCM must be bad. I have fuel pressure but no injector triggering is being done. The PCM is getting all the proper signals. It took 5.5hrs to troubleshoot but they only charged me for 3 since i had said that's all I could afford right now. If anyone is in Washington and needs service i would highly recommend Bickford ford. The lead Randall smith took great care of me. Ill provide a tech name tomorrow when I get all the paperwork. If anyone has a leed on a good 90 sc manual trans pcm let me know. Hope this helps anyone. I would say if you run trouble codes, receive no signals, clicks or pops and the rads fan is on, the PCM is bad.
 
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