supercharger removal egr problems

tx94sc

Registered User
Question in short form, whats the easiest method for removing the egr so i can pull the SC off and replace the valve cover gasket.

continue reading for my hellos it being my first post and the car info i just bought. Thanks to everybody in advance.


Hi there, first post so lemme introduce myself, i just bought my 1994 sc auto black with grey leather interior 75k orig miles with every piece of paper the car was ever issued( including window sticker ) for $1200 from a guy paralized at the waste down ( he drove it with hand controls which i have still ).

The only issues with it are the blinking firm ride light and a leaky passenger side valve cover.

thats where this thread comes in, im trying to get the valve cover gasket changed out, i pulled out the airbox,air tube, throttle body, upper intercooler pipe, disconnected all vacuum hoses to supercharger and pulled the 3 bolts that hold the supercharger on off, all i have left to do is disconnect the egr and then i can remove the SC and change the gasket.
 
On my 89, there are just two bolts (10mm I think) holding the valve to the SC inlet...assuming it's the same, just take them out, then you're free!

It's definitely easier than unscrewing it from the exhaust - trust me! :rolleyes:
 
i was hoping you wouldnt say that lol, i got the bolt closest the fender off, but the hump of the tube blocks the other, did you use a short/long socket or a wrench or what, im tired of beating up my knuckles on this one
 
Yeah...not my favorite thing. Pulled an SC off a donor car last week and this took the most time.

Used a long thin 10MMbox end to break it loose, then a 10mm std. socket, short extension, 1/4" drive ratchet to back it far enough out so I could finish it with my fingers - this meant neutralizing it with the other hand so it wouldn't bind the bolt.

Throttle cable assmy. moved out of the way of course and working from the pass. side.
 
take off your cowl panel, and the lower panel under that. get you a swivel headed ratchet (less than 5 bucks at your local harbor freight) and your 10mm socket to get to it.
 
Definitely should take the cowl off - I always assume everyone does that first.
:eek:

The bolts (as you know) are excessively long, so get comfortable and just keep cranking!

It's been so long since I've had to mess with the EGR valve (DELETED! :D), but I think I used an open ended wrench to take the stoopid thing out. If you're going to keep EGR, I'd put a good amount of anti-seaze on the bolts when you reassemble - makes it much easier the next time!
 
yep. i tried the first time without removing the panel, sliced my hands up like deli meat trying to get it out, took the cowl off and got it off, promptly threw away the rediculously long bolts, swapped them for bolts that were much shorter (i think they were the ones that i took off my blower top and replaced with allen head bolts.)

actually had to remove the egr three times after that, and was a piece of cake each time after.
 
I know it may sound obvious, but have you tried tightening the valve cover bolts first? I had leaky valve cover gaskets on one of my cars and was able to fix it by just snugging up the bolts. I'd try it before messing with the EGR.
 
Firm Ride Light Flashing

Pulled this out of the FAQ section:

The flashing Firm Ride light indicates an electronic actuator or shock problem. The codes indicate the corner of the car with the problem:

1 flash - rear left
2 flashes - rear right
3 flashes - front right
4 flashes - front left

Check out all the connections on your actuators. If everything looks good, that actuator or shock might be going bad.

Good Luck.
 
use a baby ratchet

Before I eliminated the EGR because I couldn’t find an EGR tube, I took the EGR off with a short handled ratchet and 10 mm socket – without removing the cowling. Total length of the Mac ratchet is just under four inches.

eddie
'90 5-speed SC
'97 LX sport
 
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