Upper & Lower Control Arms

Scott D

Registered User
Who, here, has changed them? What issues (if any) did you run across that made the job difficult? What would you do, next time, to make it easier?

Were the upper and lower joints worn even, or did one show more wear than the other?
 
I never changed the lowers, but the uppers can be a real ~~~~ on the 89-92 models, more so the driver then the passanger. A standard length and stubby ratchet wrench may prove to come in handy for this job, as well as so beer and patients! :D
 
You can search on either phrase:
  • upper control arm
  • lower control arm
...and benefit from previous discussions without needing to wait for a response.

Here is one example:
http://www.sccoa.com/forums/showthread.php?t=115257&highlight=upper+control+arm

When I got my SC, it had 90k miles on it and the large ball joint on the upper control arm driver's side was worn so much I thought it would snap @ the next pot hole. The pass. side's boot is torn now but it's still tight so it will be done when it comes around on the budget. If the control arms are worn, it is best to check everything else - you'd be amazed at the difference new parts will make, especially sway bar links...

And when it's all done, then have it aligned.
 
I scoped everything out, good, this morning. The uppers, on both sides, are definitely shot (@ 95,800 miles). The lowers appeared to be fine, so I'll get the upper control arms done, then budget the lower control arms later.

It doesn't look like there's very much in the way, on my '97, so I'll take into account I'll need a suitcase of Budwieser and a clear afternoon. Well, not too clear, I don't want to dehydrate ;)

*edit - think the powers that be will welcome a n/a 232 into the fold so I can scope out the how-to in the members' only section ;)
 
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Best tool to do the job is a ratcheting wrench.

There is no room for a deep well socket on the drivers side, it runs into the Master cylinder I believe.

On the passenger side the AC accumulator (I forget what it is called) was within 1/4" of the nut. I was able to wiggle the ratcheting wrench behind it and use it.
 
Something to keep in mind while inspecting the suspension... :)

If your ball joint boots are torn but the joint feels tight fully assembled, I would do the "wiggle-check"® with the particular joint unbolted - for example, the upper control arm ball joint - unbolt it from the spindle, then check for play. This is especially true for sway bar endlinks! Other parts can putting strain on the joint you are checking can cause it to pass the "wiggle check"®.

This is probably not ALWAYS true, but I think it's safe to assume any give ball joint with a "permanently greased" type boot is still good if there is no damage (tears, holes or worse) to the boot itself. If the boot is damaged, either the joint has already worn significantly and caused the tear, or it's on the way (since water, dirt, etc. can rinse the grease out and start grinding away at the steel ball and socket)

If it's the an aftermarket greasable type joint (has a grease gun fitting), then I think you'd just have to do the "wiggle check"®. :p
 
Best tool to do the job is a ratcheting wrench.

There is no room for a deep well socket on the drivers side, it runs into the Master cylinder I believe.

On the passenger side the AC accumulator (I forget what it is called) was within 1/4" of the nut. I was able to wiggle the ratcheting wrench behind it and use it.

One thing that will mess with your mind is that the original bolts have the metal "flag" over the bolt heads. And the one next to the accumulator has one, but you can't see it because of its location ... and it's just thick enough that you can get a wrench on the head, but not fully on. So it will drive you mad. :) You can just pop the flag off with a large screwdriver, though.
 
One thing that will mess with your mind is that the original bolts have the metal "flag" over the bolt heads. And the one next to the accumulator has one, but you can't see it because of its location ... and it's just thick enough that you can get a wrench on the head, but not fully on. So it will drive you mad. :) You can just pop the flag off with a large screwdriver, though.

If you leave the flags there, they'll help you. ;)

Sometimes they're already gone or will pop off though. :rolleyes:
 
I appreciate the replies, gang. Having looked over the different how-to things, it doesn't look that hard. I do appreciate the other tips replied with in this thread.

As soon as I get the UCA's in, I'll drive the car to work, on a Friday, and get 'em done before the weekend (we've got air tools, jacks, and well, it's a class 8 truck shop).

Maybe I can get the A/C work done while I'm doing the control arms.

The only other thing I can think of doing soon is the lower radiator hose and water pump.
 
I had the car at work, had the tire off, and was about to pull it apart and I realized I was missing something. What size nuts and bolts are people using on the Upper Control Arms @ the ends away from the ball joint? Again, this is on my '97.
 
I had the car at work, had the tire off, and was about to pull it apart and I realized I was missing something. What size nuts and bolts are people using on the Upper Control Arms @ the ends away from the ball joint? Again, this is on my '97.

The nuts for the UCA bolts are all 18mm, at the spindle and the inner fenders .. use an open ended 18mm wrench or break the tabs from the inside.

I found the passenger side near the AC setup a bit of a tighter squeeze on the 89-93 SC's.

- Dan
 
The nuts for the UCA bolts are all 18mm, at the spindle and the inner fenders .. use an open ended 18mm wrench or break the tabs from the inside.

I found the passenger side near the AC setup a bit of a tighter squeeze on the 89-93 SC's.

- Dan

I used a 19mm on the nut and (if I remember correctly) 15mm on the inner bolt. I decided it would be better to have the replacements before I decided to take out the old ones.

I have the Ford part numbers, but cannot find any information on what to buy to use for the replacement nut & bolt on the upper control arms.

What have others bought to re-install the uppers? Like I said, I'd rather have the new bolts and nuts in hand as opposed to taking it all apart and going to match things up.
 
I think the final tightening of the upper control arm to the body is supposed to be done at normal ride height.
Also when you get to the point where you need to do anything else on the front suspension I would recommend doing it all at the same time, usually all the stuff is old and it will save you from disassembling more than once.
 
The uppers under the hood are 18mm. Use a ratcheting wrench. It will take you forever with an open wrench.

See, one of the auto parts stores I went to couldn't do anything for me with the wrench sizes. They had several bolts that matched the wrench sizes, but each of them were different diameter and thread pitch. I wasn't sure what to get. The other parts store said they couldn't do anything unless they had a nut and bolt to compare it to.

So, what I need is the diameter, length, and possibly thread pitch of the bolts and nuts to buy. If that makes any more sense.

I do apologize about being confusing on my end of the posts.

Maybe I just need to get it apart and go match it up. If I do it that way, I can get the underhood nuts off, is it fine to knock the inner fender bolts out with a hammer, or will they come out easy, after I get the suspension raised to normal ride height?

I really hate to get the project started and leave to buy some more stuff, but I guess why change things from my normal MO, huh? ;)

Kurt, I'll keep that in mind when I get the lower control arms purchased. What else should I include when I place my order for the lower end?
 
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