Ignition switch: no joy

RotaryKlown

Registered User
So, I recently bought my XR7 and at the time of purchase, the seller made me aware that the clutch wasn't receiving enough pressure due to a poorly replaced line. Also, he informed me that due to the lack of pressure, the neutral safety switch would not engage, thus not allowing the car to start from the ignition switch. I have since replaced the clutch line with a brand new one from Rockauto, as well as the slave cylinder. I have full clutch pressure now and still the car will not start without crossing the solenoid.

So is it safe to assume that he's incorrect about the neutral safety switch?
 
The ignition switches on these cars can cause all sorts of problems.....

Best bet is to replace it...

It's not that hard of a job and can be done in about ½ hour....
 
I don't know where that info came from, but the clutch lever engages a switch under the dash. At least on my 5 speed its set up like that. Its not pressure activated.
 
It's not that hard of a job and can be done in about ½ hour....
That would be your typical SC 1/2 hour BTW. Real time spent = 2 hours.

10 minutes spent tyring to figure out how the headlight knob comes off the switch
20 minutes spent shaking your head back and forth saying "This can't be that hard. Why did Ford put that tamper resistant torx bolt in there.".
20 minutes spent unbolting the steering column after giving up on trying to get some combination of bits and extensions on the aforementioned "stupid" torx bolt.
10-15 minutes spent trying to figure out how that clip is supposed to go back on the ignition before deciding to just leave it off.
30 minutes spent gluing the cover panel clips back on after they've snapped off.
and
20 minutes spent sanding/priming the surface rust off the base plate (Oh.. so thats where that smell was coming from :rolleyes:)

Plan accordingly. :D
 
The good news is, its always easier the second time.

The bad news is, with ignition switches there will be a second time.

Paul
 
That would be your typical SC 1/2 hour BTW. Real time spent = 2 hours.

10 minutes spent tyring to figure out how the headlight knob comes off the switch
20 minutes spent shaking your head back and forth saying "This can't be that hard. Why did Ford put that tamper resistant torx bolt in there.".
20 minutes spent unbolting the steering column after giving up on trying to get some combination of bits and extensions on the aforementioned "stupid" torx bolt.
10-15 minutes spent trying to figure out how that clip is supposed to go back on the ignition before deciding to just leave it off.
30 minutes spent gluing the cover panel clips back on after they've snapped off.
and
20 minutes spent sanding/priming the surface rust off the base plate (Oh.. so thats where that smell was coming from :rolleyes:)

Plan accordingly. :D

LOL....:D

I can get the front ignition switch bolt off with a torx bit and a ¼" drive ratchet.....

For the lower one, I use the torx bit and a ¼" wrench....
 
So, I recently bought my XR7 and at the time of purchase, the seller made me aware that the clutch wasn't receiving enough pressure due to a poorly replaced line. Also, he informed me that due to the lack of pressure, the neutral safety switch would not engage, thus not allowing the car to start from the ignition switch. I have since replaced the clutch line with a brand new one from Rockauto, as well as the slave cylinder. I have full clutch pressure now and still the car will not start without crossing the solenoid.

So is it safe to assume that he's incorrect about the neutral safety switch?

What year is it? In 1990, the brake light switch had to be engaged for the car to start. Do your brake lights work?
 
yeah....

Believe me, the further I delve into this car, the more obvious it becomes that he was terribly uninformed/misinformed.

Yes the brake lights work.
 
R & R of ignition switch

I replaced my ignition switch in a matter of minutes with a little help from these fine folks. Only costs $12.00 and can be accomplished by simply taking the cover off the steering column. It sits just in front of the tumbler and if you have the torx with a pin hole in the middle, piece of cake as long as you are not prone to finger cramping.
 
On the manual transmission cars, the ignition cutout is on the clutch pedal lever. On the autos, the brake lamp switch controls the cutout. The cutout is a relay that interrupts the starter circuit.
 
whoo!

Alright, now we're in business. After doing my favorite thing, in-car inversions lol, and crawling under the dash with my multi-meter, I found that the c.p.p.s. . Tested it as it was, nothing. Pinched it, tested again, it worked fine. So, tomorrow I'm going to zip-tie it when I get to work. I did go for a nice ride around town to feel it out this afternoon. :)
 
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