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View Full Version : what are the best first bang-for-the-buck mods?



slow_v6_stang
09-26-2010, 08:38 PM
i've had the SC swap done in my mustang for quite some time now, have an 8.8" rear end w/ 3.73s, and recently did a 5-speed swap. now it is time to get a little more power and am wondering what you guys do for your first mods. right now i have a pretty much bone stock 89-93 setup.

please answer my three questions...

If you had $500 to spend on performance mods, what would you buy?

If you had $750 to spend on performance mods, what would you buy?

If you had $1000 to spend on performance mods, what would you buy?

XxSlowpokexX
09-27-2010, 12:29 AM
Im assuming you did exhaust and perhaps a larger fuel pump.

The next line of mods I things I would go for are:
1) S ported 94/95 blower
2) MP inlet
3) 5% jackshaft pulley
4) Methanol injection kit
5) A Dyno tune

If you have extra funds I'd upgrade to a larger 42lb injectors 75-85MM TB, 3.5 intake tube, 90mm LMAF with the above. Pricing will depend on what you get these parts for. You can find many used and you would be pushing that $1000 mark

If you want to go cheaper you can just find yourself a 94-95 blower which is a great upgrade from the earlier model ones even unported.

Whatever you deciede to do a good tune will be key afterwards

phils89sc
09-27-2010, 07:36 AM
i've had the SC swap done in my mustang for quite some time now, have an 8.8" rear end w/ 3.73s, and recently did a 5-speed swap. now it is time to get a little more power and am wondering what you guys do for your first mods. right now i have a pretty much bone stock 89-93 setup.

please answer my three questions...

If you had $500 to spend on performance mods, what would you buy?

If you had $750 to spend on performance mods, what would you buy?

If you had $1000 to spend on performance mods, what would you buy?


I didn't hear you mention what kind of exhaust you had. Like our SC's, that would be my first stop, a very nice true dual exhaust. Seeing as you have a Mustang (89-93), this should be very readily available in the aftermarket, more so than our SC's. That is probably what I would do with $500.00. You could also do other mods, like cold air intake and high flow air filter in that $500.00. How about some pics of your car and the engine bay?

XR7 Dave
09-27-2010, 07:43 AM
My experience with the Mustangs is that the stock IC is extremely ineffective so I'd start with a FMIC. That should cost less than $500 but it won't get you more power on the dyno, but it will make more power on the street.

Then you can get a set of UD's and a 10% blower pulley although that blower won't like the OD. However, you can't run a better blower without more injectors so the next step is going to cost you a few bucks. You'll need injectors, MAF, chip, and blower all at the same time. But that will net you big gains.

There are always a million ways to approach the situation though.

slow_v6_stang
09-27-2010, 12:19 PM
Im assuming you did exhaust and perhaps a larger fuel pump.

The next line of mods I things I would go for are:
1) S ported 94/95 blower
2) MP inlet
3) 5% jackshaft pulley
4) Methanol injection kit
5) A Dyno tune

If you have extra funds I'd upgrade to a larger 42lb injectors 75-85MM TB, 3.5 intake tube, 90mm LMAF with the above. Pricing will depend on what you get these parts for. You can find many used and you would be pushing that $1000 mark

If you want to go cheaper you can just find yourself a 94-95 blower which is a great upgrade from the earlier model ones even unported.

Whatever you deciede to do a good tune will be key afterwards

yes, i have 2.25" true duals with flowmaster 40's and the SVT focus 310lph fuel pump. what does the "s ported" mean?


I didn't hear you mention what kind of exhaust you had. Like our SC's, that would be my first stop, a very nice true dual exhaust. Seeing as you have a Mustang (89-93), this should be very readily available in the aftermarket, more so than our SC's. That is probably what I would do with $500.00. You could also do other mods, like cold air intake and high flow air filter in that $500.00. How about some pics of your car and the engine bay?

my mustang is a 1998 w/ the 89-93 SC setup, and i have duals (see above). i posted some pics below. i have kind of a cold air intake, just missing the tube between the MAF and throttle body.


My experience with the Mustangs is that the stock IC is extremely ineffective so I'd start with a FMIC. That should cost less than $500 but it won't get you more power on the dyno, but it will make more power on the street.

Then you can get a set of UD's and a 10% blower pulley although that blower won't like the OD. However, you can't run a better blower without more injectors so the next step is going to cost you a few bucks. You'll need injectors, MAF, chip, and blower all at the same time. But that will net you big gains.

There are always a million ways to approach the situation though.

thanks for all of the input, looks like i have a starting point now, however more opinions are appreciated. i do have some decently high intake temps, so i think a FMIC would be nice (or at least a super coupe radiator) here are some pictures of the car.

http://i49.tinypic.com/2m30f8k.jpg

http://i47.tinypic.com/35icgzm.jpg

http://i45.tinypic.com/2lktzlt.jpg

http://i9.tinypic.com/4vo8ftd.jpg

http://i14.tinypic.com/4kjbc7m.jpg

http://i15.tinypic.com/6g8nfk3.jpg

http://i16.tinypic.com/4oz5csk.jpg

http://i7.tinypic.com/4pb634g.jpg

http://i13.tinypic.com/6d1w0v8.jpg

David Neibert
09-27-2010, 01:01 PM
I would do.....an SC aluminum radiator (or generic one with same width), a double intercooler with fan, 5% OD JS pulley and a set of underdrive pulleys.

David

phils89sc
09-27-2010, 01:32 PM
yes, i have 2.25" true duals with flowmaster 40's and the SVT focus 310lph fuel pump. what does the "s ported" mean?



my mustang is a 1998 w/ the 89-93 SC setup, and i have duals (see above). i posted some pics below. i have kind of a cold air intake, just missing the tube between the MAF and throttle body.



thanks for all of the input, looks like i have a starting point now, however more opinions are appreciated. i do have some decently high intake temps, so i think a FMIC would be nice (or at least a super coupe radiator) here are some pictures of the car.

http://i49.tinypic.com/2m30f8k.jpg

http://i47.tinypic.com/35icgzm.jpg

http://i45.tinypic.com/2lktzlt.jpg

http://i9.tinypic.com/4vo8ftd.jpg

http://i14.tinypic.com/4kjbc7m.jpg

http://i15.tinypic.com/6g8nfk3.jpg

http://i16.tinypic.com/4oz5csk.jpg

http://i7.tinypic.com/4pb634g.jpg

http://i13.tinypic.com/6d1w0v8.jpg


Dude, that is sweet....I wanna do something like that...What computer are you using? How was the wiring for the engine harness, etc..? Would you PM me a writeup on how you did this? thanks. -Phil

Surgin
09-27-2010, 01:51 PM
You have the mustang radiator in, might as well do a FMIC, the pipe is cheap and the intercooler is like 78 shipped. Fits right in there nicely. Some have cut the lower bumper section out, but I just left it in. You can see how much is exposed.

Once that is done you can overdrive it to get a little more out of that blower. You need to read the performance section to get a good idea on how some mods are better than others.

Justin

slow_v6_stang
09-27-2010, 01:53 PM
Dude, that is sweet....I wanna do something like that...What computer are you using? How was the wiring for the engine harness, etc..? Would you PM me a writeup on how you did this? thanks. -Phil

v6sprout's write-up -
http://v6power.net/vb/showthread.php?t=5716

my write-up -
http://sn95forums.com/index.php/topic,15731.msg293891.html#msg293891


between these two links, you shouldnt have many questions about the swap.

XxSlowpokexX
09-27-2010, 01:58 PM
An S port blower is a ported 94-95 type SC blower from Magnusun. You can however get a stock 94-95 SC blower and have that same port done. Look for photos of it on teh SCCOA. I'd do that over OD'ing your factory 89-93 m90 anyday. Just swapping in that blower is a noticable difference. Your radiator is currently blocking cool air to your IC...So getting an SC type radiator will allow you to at least build a shroud to get cool air to it.....Of if you run a front mount you may have room for a nice full size rad.

BUT AGAIN...If you just find yourself a 94-95 blower. You can bolt that on as is and get a noticible difference you can feel even unported. To me thats operhaps the best bang for the buck

XR7 Dave
09-27-2010, 02:11 PM
An S port blower is a ported 94-95 type SC blower from Magnusun. You can however get a stock 94-95 SC blower and have that same port done. Look for photos of it on teh SCCOA. I'd do that over OD'ing your factory 89-93 m90 anyday. Just swapping in that blower is a noticable difference. Your radiator is currently blocking cool air to your IC...So getting an SC type radiator will allow you to at least build a shroud to get cool air to it.....Of if you run a front mount you may have room for a nice full size rad.

BUT AGAIN...If you just find yourself a 94-95 blower. You can bolt that on as is and get a noticible difference you can feel even unported. To me thats operhaps the best bang for the buck

Damon, you are overlooking the fact that he will be out of injectors with any blower upgrade. You can get away with stock injectors on an 89 blower but not on a 94+, well at least if you don't want to be hitting 100% duty cycle at about 4800rpm.

On my car with an MPII and 10% OD on an otherwise stock motor I'm running 75% duty cycle on 50's. That would be 125% duty cycle on 30's.

By looking at his pictures you can see how retarded the IC installation is on a Mustang. Even if he gets an SC radiator there won't be any pressure differential across the IC so it won't work worth a damn and a double IC will be worse. Been there done that. Get a FMIC first and go from there.

the-big-e
09-27-2010, 03:48 PM
Definitely a FMIC will need to be installed for optimal performance....

Bigger injectors with a higher capacity fuel delivery system...

Ported heads with bigger valves....

XxSlowpokexX
09-27-2010, 03:56 PM
Dave..Thats why I said hed have to build a shroud for the IC if he went that route. Personally Id say a full size rad and a front mount if he can.

As far as upgrading to just a 94-95 blower I cant imagine that using more injector then OD an early model blower 10% or even 5.

phils89sc
09-27-2010, 10:01 PM
yes, i have 2.25" true duals with flowmaster 40's and the SVT focus 310lph fuel pump. what does the "s ported" mean?



my mustang is a 1998 w/ the 89-93 SC setup, and i have duals (see above). i posted some pics below. i have kind of a cold air intake, just missing the tube between the MAF and throttle body.



thanks for all of the input, looks like i have a starting point now, however more opinions are appreciated. i do have some decently high intake temps, so i think a FMIC would be nice (or at least a super coupe radiator) here are some pictures of the car.

http://i49.tinypic.com/2m30f8k.jpg

http://i47.tinypic.com/35icgzm.jpg

http://i45.tinypic.com/2lktzlt.jpg

http://i9.tinypic.com/4vo8ftd.jpg

http://i14.tinypic.com/4kjbc7m.jpg

http://i15.tinypic.com/6g8nfk3.jpg

http://i16.tinypic.com/4oz5csk.jpg

http://i7.tinypic.com/4pb634g.jpg

http://i13.tinypic.com/6d1w0v8.jpg


Do you have or can make any audio / video clips of your exhaust sound? Maybe something while behind the car and revving or while driving?

XR7 Dave
09-27-2010, 10:15 PM
Dave..Thats why I said hed have to build a shroud for the IC if he went that route. Personally Id say a full size rad and a front mount if he can.

As far as upgrading to just a 94-95 blower I cant imagine that using more injector then OD an early model blower 10% or even 5.

I've dyno tested the theories. The overdriven early model will be about the same as a stock late model until 4500rpm where the early model starts to crap out and the late model keeps going. This is where you run out of injectors.

Anyway, trust me, the stock IC is terrible on the Mustang due to how far back it sits. When you can build a FMIC for $300, it doesn't make sense to waste time on the stocker or a double.

ironworker
09-27-2010, 10:19 PM
power pulley
5 % underdrive jack shaft pulley
snow kit
exhaust


i bought these from a good friend of mine . the only thing i did not buy from him was the exhaust. i all ready had done.

spinningwheels-sc

David Neibert
09-27-2010, 11:02 PM
Anyway, trust me, the stock IC is terrible on the Mustang due to how far back it sits. When you can build a FMIC for $300, it doesn't make sense to waste time on the stocker or a double.

After looking at the pictures a little closer, I agree about doing a FMIC instead of a DBL IC.

David

slow_v6_stang
09-28-2010, 01:27 PM
sounds like FMIC is the winner. i think i am going to try and duplicate what roadhawg has done with his mustang (hopefully i wont have to re-locate the battery). after that, it looks like i'll have a few pennies to spend on the next, rather large upgrade.

slow_v6_stang
09-28-2010, 07:39 PM
so i just about pooped my pants when i saw that magnum powers wants $325 for that blower top with the front outlet, so i started to design my own. at work, we have a CNC waterjet and quite a few welders that are very good with aluminum. my plans are to fab the tube part myself, get all the other parts cut on the waterjet, have a welder weld it up, and i will grind the welds smooth and powder coat it myself. any thoughs or opinions on how to make it better?

Roadhawg
09-28-2010, 07:58 PM
I do not believe the stock hood will clear that front outlet. Also keep in mind the engine sits and a slight downward angle to the rear. If your top has a front outlet that is perpendicular to the blower, it will have a rise, that will not clear the hood. I used the Magnum Powers front outlet top, cut a pie shaped wedge out of it and had it re-welded. This gave the outlet a downward angle to the front, which provided hood clearance. I have a full size radiator, with a front mount intercooler. I used 2.75" piping and tried to use the fewest bends as possible. I did not gain Hp on the Dyno, but during normal driving my IATs are fairly close to ambient.

http://members.cox.net/roadhawg2/images/Stang/StangFMIC2.jpg

Plat0ribs
09-28-2010, 08:14 PM
Well that's awsome!

Nice work.:cool:

Roadhawg
09-28-2010, 08:20 PM
Well that's awsome!

Nice work.:cool:

Thanks, see you at the shootout. ;)

Regul8r
09-28-2010, 09:37 PM
Roadhawg,

THAT IS SSSSAAAAAAWWWWWWEEEEEEEEEEEET!
would like to see pics of your FMIC.

Surgin
09-29-2010, 08:49 AM
You can just route it to the side. If you relocate the fuse box to the wheel well and the battery to the truck, you can come over the top for both pipes. It looks like you can still use the STB if you had one.

Justin

slow_v6_stang
09-29-2010, 01:07 PM
You can just route it to the side. If you relocate the fuse box to the wheel well and the battery to the truck, you can come over the top for both pipes. It looks like you can still use the STB if you had one.

Justin

do you have more pictures of your setup? the more the merrier.

Surgin
09-29-2010, 05:23 PM
Here is what I have @ work. The last one is a/c delete and SC radiator and intercooler.

Justin

chadder1313
09-29-2010, 10:46 PM
I do not believe the stock hood will clear that front outlet. Also keep in mind the engine sits and a slight downward angle to the rear. If your top has a front outlet that is perpendicular to the blower, it will have a rise, that will not clear the hood. I used the Magnum Powers front outlet top, cut a pie shaped wedge out of it and had it re-welded. This gave the outlet a downward angle to the front, which provided hood clearance. I have a full size radiator, with a front mount intercooler. I used 2.75" piping and tried to use the fewest bends as possible. I did not gain Hp on the Dyno, but during normal driving my IATs are fairly close to ambient.

http://members.cox.net/roadhawg2/images/Stang/StangFMIC2.jpg

Looks great man! I sure wished mine was that purty!

Williamtheis05
11-06-2013, 04:53 AM
Beautiful car man!

RalphP
11-06-2013, 09:24 AM
I didn't see these posted, but what I would HIGHLY recommend doing first:

Suspension rebuild, poly where possible except for the strut rods (where you should go Ford bushings only!). This will help you get the power you have to the ground, and help you keep the SC pointed the way you WANT to go.

Brakes - First, for a 1989-1992, upgrade to 1993+ MN12/FN10 spindles, and after that, for all MN12/FN10s, upgrade to Mustang PBRs up front. This will help you STOP that SC after you show your car's tail lights to the Camaros and Corvettes and Mustangs in your area :D:D

A full tune up - proper plugs and wires. Check other posts for what's worked best for others.

After that, it's time to look at making it go faster, now that it goes straighter and stops quicker. THAT way we keep it on the road and out of the tail of that concrete truck in front of you ...

RwP

David Neibert
11-06-2013, 12:49 PM
I didn't see these posted, but what I would HIGHLY recommend doing first:

Suspension rebuild, poly where possible except for the strut rods (where you should go Ford bushings only!). This will help you get the power you have to the ground, and help you keep the SC pointed the way you WANT to go.

Brakes - First, for a 1989-1992, upgrade to 1993+ MN12/FN10 spindles, and after that, for all MN12/FN10s, upgrade to Mustang PBRs up front. This will help you STOP that SC after you show your car's tail lights to the Camaros and Corvettes and Mustangs in your area :D:D

A full tune up - proper plugs and wires. Check other posts for what's worked best for others.

After that, it's time to look at making it go faster, now that it goes straighter and stops quicker. THAT way we keep it on the road and out of the tail of that concrete truck in front of you ...

RwP

It's not an SC, it's a 98 Mustang with an SC motor swap. BTW, this post was from 2010, so he probably already spent that $500.

David