hi i am new to the form but not to the mn12 i had a 93 cougar with a n/a 3.8 auto and a 94 tbird 4.6 auto but i never had a supercoupe but i am looking at one for $1200 its a 89 with a five speed the guy regeared the rear end but other than that its stock i took it for a test drive but is there anything that i should really look at closer and is there any problems that the sc had
looking at a supercoupe
- Thread starter bkcamaro
- Start date
the-big-e
Registered User
First thing to do is check for rust along the GFX, rocker panels, and underneath trunk area...
Open drivers door all the way, grab lower corner of door, and lift up on the door....
Any movement will indicate wear at the upper hinge pin.....
Also check every electrical item and switch that you can on the car....
Move both front seats in all 6 directions, from stop to stop....
Don't forget to try out the bolster and lumbar functions.....
Make sure you get to shift transmission into all 5 gears with no grinding....
Last, but not least, make sure keys work in all lock cylinders (doors, trunk, and glove box).....
Open drivers door all the way, grab lower corner of door, and lift up on the door....
Any movement will indicate wear at the upper hinge pin.....
Also check every electrical item and switch that you can on the car....
Move both front seats in all 6 directions, from stop to stop....
Don't forget to try out the bolster and lumbar functions.....
Make sure you get to shift transmission into all 5 gears with no grinding....
Last, but not least, make sure keys work in all lock cylinders (doors, trunk, and glove box).....
well i got the supercoupe and at a good price $700. $400 and $300 worth of parts. got the car home and was removing the seats to clean under neath them and found a huge problem a rust hole about a one foot by one foot. is this fixable and if so about how much
1st pic is from inside the car
2nd is underneath
3rd is at the being of the valley where they run the wires
4th is the seat bracket
1st pic is from inside the car
2nd is underneath
3rd is at the being of the valley where they run the wires
4th is the seat bracket
Attachments
Last edited:
S_Mazza
Registered User
Ai yai yai. Well, that explains the good price. The good news is, it's fixable. Almost anything is, with new sheetmetal and a good welder. But I am not sure how much. It looks like the damage is a little bit beyond the single sheet of the floor pan, but it's hard to tell. When you get into the folded and overlapping sheets of metal, that's where it gets difficult. My SWAG would be that you could get it fixed for under $1000. But I don't know.
Might be a good time to make friends with a body repair man.
Might be a good time to make friends with a body repair man.
Regul8r
Registered User
can fix that in on a Saturday.
Pull the seats, peel back the carpet, get a floor piece from a donor car, a good cut off wheel, and a mig welder.
Measure it, cut it, weld the new piece in place, some seam sealer and a spray can of undercaoting.
Done and on your way!
Forgot to ask... Where are you located and WELCOME TO THE BOARD!
Pull the seats, peel back the carpet, get a floor piece from a donor car, a good cut off wheel, and a mig welder.
Measure it, cut it, weld the new piece in place, some seam sealer and a spray can of undercaoting.
Done and on your way!
Forgot to ask... Where are you located and WELCOME TO THE BOARD!
well i will be making some phone calls cuz i dont have a plasma cutter or a welder its on my to get list and dont have the room for a donor car at the moment cuz of my riviera donor car and being in wisconsin its hard to find a good donor car hears some pics of my current cars and past cars http://www.fquick.com/bkcamaro
Last edited:
TinManSC92
Registered User
Yah, don't panic! that's both common and simple. If you're not handy, get a member with a donor car to cut you out a piece of floor from where the floor starts to turn upward below the pedals. there's a framing support at that point where the front of the floor is welded to. Then, have it cut along the rocker floor connection( 3/4 of an inch up) down to where the rear seat bolts to. ( there is a bend at that point where the water drains into, that is the separation point between where the front and rear floor transitons. ( memory work here) then cut at that bend over to the floor subframe. Cut right down the center of that support to where you started. When you cut out the bad area and weld in the new floor YOU SHOULD NOT be able to see any welds where a new floor pan was installed. And, it is the rightful place to where your original was welded to. That sound cheap and simple enough?
Mine was worse, I fixed it with a $20 piece of aluminum sheet ~18x24.
Stuck two corners into the inner rail underneath, self tapping sheet metal screws to hold it in place, piece of 2x6 on top of the floor jack to push the unattached side of the new sheet into place, drive sheet metal screws in wherever you can find good anchor points, pull out rottin padding, replace with pad/rubber mat so everything lays flat inside, lay carpet back down and voila.
Took me about an hour!
Stuck two corners into the inner rail underneath, self tapping sheet metal screws to hold it in place, piece of 2x6 on top of the floor jack to push the unattached side of the new sheet into place, drive sheet metal screws in wherever you can find good anchor points, pull out rottin padding, replace with pad/rubber mat so everything lays flat inside, lay carpet back down and voila.
Took me about an hour!