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View Full Version : Multifunction Switch Conversion (non-autodim to autodim)



DrFishbone
10-13-2010, 12:32 PM
If anybody is interested....

The multifunction switches in autodimming headlight cars vs. the switches in non-autodimmming cars are different. It looks like the two easily visual differences are: AD MFS has a blue connector on the backside, while the non-AD MFS has a green connector, and the paint-stamped PN's are different. Anyway, I haven't seen any information about converting a non-autodimming multifunction switch to work in an autodimming car (or vice versa), so I thought I would post up my conversion if anyone is interested. Again, this is to convert the actual MFS...not the car's system.

Notes/Assumptions:

If you are replacing a non-functioning MFS, you may not be able to do the conversion on your replacement, since the conversion uses parts from two switches. It all depends on what part is broken or non-functioning on your old switch. My reason for converting was just to improve asthetics.
This conversion assumes both switches are in good working condition. In my case, my old AD MFS was UGLY, but I had a really nice looking non-AD MFS that I wanted to install in my car to restore the interior.
This applies for all 89-93 T-Birds & Cougars, not sure about 94+ cars.
Some Taurus cars use similar switches, except the actual lever is shorter. You may be able to use some Taurus parts if you need to.
If you see anything incorrect, let me know...I've only done this once.
I have tested all function except windshield wiper/washer controls (I forgot), so I'll confirm they still work and report back :rolleyes:

Procedure:

1) Remove both switches from cars and place on workbench
2) Using a tamperproof torx bit (if req'd), remove two screws retaining the colored sections on both MFS's and remove blue/green connectors; place aside. (There are small springs and copper contacts that can fall out below the colored connector, always hold the assembly with the connector side facing upward. Note position of contacts/springs)
3) Using a tamperproof torx bit, remove two screws retaining the larger, black connector piece. Make sure to hold the lever in place when removing this piece, and it will make life a little easier. :) There are several contacts/springs/pieces that are loose after removal of the larger black connector, but if you're careful, you won't have to mess with any of those. You may feel the black piece hang up on the inside portion (below the four-pin hi/lo beam light control connector), just carefully wiffle it loose. This is from a little "flapper" that inserts into a slot that moves a set of contacts that switch between hi/lo beams.
4) Swap BOTH the black connector and colored connector piece onto the desired switch. The black connector will need to be positioned to re-insert the flapper on the end of the lever back into the slot on the hi/lo beam contacts part. Once this is lined up, everything should slide right back together (might need to wiggle the lever just a bit to get it re-seated in the two pieces). Re-intall two retaining screws.
5) Install colored connector that was oringally with your car. Make sure the contacts are in place.
6) check lever and switches for correct operation.
7) Install converted switch into car and test.


Basically, the only thing you need to re-use from your old switch is the large black connector piece and colored connector - which house the only functional differences between the AD MFS and non-AD MFS! :D :cool:

If anyone needs help with putting the thing back together (if any springs or ball bearings go flying), let me know. I don't really feel like typing all that out right now. Also, if you do better with picture-books, I can take some pictures. :p