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View Full Version : Installing new torque converter/transmission



cyoder
10-22-2010, 11:42 AM
Alright guys I need your help once again. Im installing a TCI streetfighter transmission and TCI torque converter that I bought off jegs. My dad told me that in order to install the torque converter I needed to put it in the transmission over all three splines and put them in together so it doesnt damage anything. We have it all up in the air and got all four bolts of the converter through the flywheel and put the nuts on. Then we got two bolts on on the transmission and it doesnt want to go up any farther. It seems like it is jammed on something but all the bolt holes are lined up. I dont want to put all of them in and end up breaking something. What is the best way to do this?

BLOWN38
10-22-2010, 11:51 AM
pull the trans back out and wiggle turn the converter while pushing in. Sounds like the converter is still not all the way in the trans.

cyoder
10-22-2010, 11:56 AM
Thats what I was afraid of. Man that sucks because it took forever to get the holes lined up for the torque converter and the flywheel. Is there an easier of way of getting everything lined up?

Kurt K
10-22-2010, 12:10 PM
Thats what I was afraid of. Man that sucks because it took forever to get the holes lined up for the torque converter and the flywheel. Is there an easier of way of getting everything lined up?

There's not an easier way and if you don't get the converter seated all the way in the transmission, you will damage the transmission.

Quik95SC
10-22-2010, 12:13 PM
pull the trans back out and wiggle turn the converter while pushing in. Sounds like the converter is still not all the way in the trans.

Chris is correct you have to get the torque converter complete on the input shaft and pump shaft completely. You should not be able to put your fingers behind the TC once it is installed, unless you have very small fingers.

Try this, I just did and it worked out great

Put the engine so that the TC holes on the flywheel are at 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 like a clock, get the trans close to the bell housing so you can still see everything, then turn the TC to line up the bolt holes with the flywheel. You can also do this while it is still on the ground or on the trans jack, either way will work.

Take your time and get them as close as possible to the positions listed above, then there will only be a very small adjustment to get the holes to align after that if any adjustment at all.

It only took me about 20 minutes to bolt the tranny to the engine last time I used this method when I reinstalled my last engine :D

cyoder
10-22-2010, 12:24 PM
Alright thanks. I will try that. Ill let everyone know if we get it in. Gonna take a break for now before I get to mad at it and end up breaking something.

rzimmerl
10-22-2010, 12:35 PM
Get the transmission seated up against the motor before you put on the torque converter nuts to avoid pulling the converter out of the transmission.

By the way which TCI trans and which TCI converter did you get, I had one up until a couple months ago?

Quik95SC
10-22-2010, 12:49 PM
Get the transmission seated up against the motor before you put on the torque converter nuts to avoid pulling the converter out of the transmission.

Great point, didn't think about that, but that is exactly what I did too!;)

slowpoke
10-22-2010, 12:56 PM
did you put fluid in the converter before you mounted it?

cyoder
10-22-2010, 03:12 PM
I got the TCI streetfighter part number 890-431000 and TCI streetfighter converter part number 890-432801. The weird thing is that when I received both of them the tranmission and the torque converter both had fluid in them. I dont know if they tested them to be sure they worked before shipping or if thats the way they ship them out, but i figured it wouldnt have anything in it.

David Neibert
10-22-2010, 03:22 PM
Thats what I was afraid of. Man that sucks because it took forever to get the holes lined up for the torque converter and the flywheel. Is there an easier of way of getting everything lined up?

That's why I insist on using a converter that has bolts to secure it, instead of those stupid studs.

David

rzimmerl
10-22-2010, 03:23 PM
I had that same combo, they test all their units thats the reason for the fluid. Depending on your mods that stall may be a little high. If you like to race I'd recommend you upgrade to a Lentech valvebody for better shifting, OD lockout via a switch, over the manual/automatic valvebody they put in. Unfortunately my TCI trans failed this summer after almost 8 summers of use.

cyoder
10-22-2010, 03:29 PM
It seemed like a decent combo when I bought it. As of right now my mods are just cold air intake but i have more ready to go onto the car after I get the tranmission back in and drive it for a while. I have new 255 lph fuel pump, new harmonic balancer, custom double intercooler, getting head gaskets redone and arp studs, got 10% overdrive pulley, and as soon as the tranny is back in the exhaust is getting done. Thats the first place I plan on going with the car.

rzimmerl
10-22-2010, 05:30 PM
It's a good combo, its just that I put a cheap converter in when I first installed my streetfighter trans. So when I changed my motor I noticed the cheap converter had ballooned really bad, pushed the direct drive shaft into the trans and mushroomed the end of it, and most likey was part of my motor failure. I installed the Streetfighter converter with the new motor and ran 12.50's with a 94 M90, pulled 1.7 60ts. I ran it like that and I knew in the back of my mind it wasn't going to last, so when it got the AR lets say it didn't like 400+ horsepower and torque to the wheels.

Dirtyd0g
10-22-2010, 06:05 PM
I disagree, people strip out threaded holes all the time, once the studs are there they are easier to get started straight, plus you can just go ahead and start tightening them instead of starting them all and then tightening it. Bolts ito threaded holes is a pain in the butt and takes 3 times as long to do. I guarantee I can put all 4 nuts on and tightened with the dust cover on ready to go do something else before you can put 4 bolts in and tightened.
Alan

cyoder
10-22-2010, 06:31 PM
Well im not gonna be going super crazy with it. I will probably never get to 400 horsepower like you guys because I do not have that much money to put into. Ill probably end up trying to get to the thirteen or low fourteen second range. I forgot to add that I might be getting a bigger cam as well, but I have not decided on that one yet.

Dirtyd0g
10-23-2010, 12:45 AM
That is good because the alto clutches in that street fighter will peel the first time they get over about 220 degrees with a load on them. It has happened to a few people around here.
Alan

cyoder
10-23-2010, 09:18 PM
Thanks for the heads up.

cyoder
10-29-2010, 06:54 PM
Alright guys I need help once again. Everything is in and the car starts in an instant. The only problem is when I put the car in gear it acts like it goes into it, the rpms change and all that, but the car doesn't move. It just acts like its still in park or neutral. I have put four quarts in it as of right now, it came shipped with fluid in both the converter and the transmission. We spilled some not much..anyways please help I want to drive this car!!!!!!!

rzimmerl
10-29-2010, 09:03 PM
It does not come shipped with full of fluid, with a stock pan and that converter it will take nearly 12 quarts to fill it up. If you keep trying that low on fluid you are going to burn it up. You did add a quart to the converter before you installed it into the transmission correct?

cyoder
10-29-2010, 10:17 PM
No I didn't.....crap....it looked pretty full when we put it up...hopefully it had some in it cuz I didn't spill much outta it just the tranny when I took it outta the box...I have put seven quarts in now and plan on putting more in tomorrow. It started to move a little like five seconds after I put it in gear

rzimmerl
10-30-2010, 07:23 AM
The converter looks like it has fluid in it but in reality its basically empty and so is the trans when you got them out of the box.

Have you set the TV cable yet?

As for the fluid on level ground start the car and check the fluid when its cold, it should be right below the hash mark when its cold. Keep adding until you get to near the bottom of the hash mark, then foot on the brake and go to each gear until you feel it engage. Check fluid level again, then go for a drive to get the fluid warm and make sure it shifts thru all the gears, don't beat on it yet.

cyoder
10-30-2010, 12:55 PM
Yea I don't plan on going hard on the transmission for at least the first thousand miles. I will check everything when I get home from work I plan on buying about five more quarts..if I start and and its low on fluid it won't burn it up just sitting in park idling will it?

cyoder
10-30-2010, 04:14 PM
Ok well now I got another problem. It seems to be leaking out of the pan. Didn't get a chance to check it as I had to leave and meet up with someone. I'm thinking loose bolts or bad gasket. Weird thing is the leak stops as soon as I shut off the car.

Dirtyd0g
10-30-2010, 09:46 PM
That sounds like a cooler line or case fitting and it is running down.
Alan

cyoder
10-31-2010, 08:50 PM
No it definitely was a gasket...took the old off and it was ripped by one of the bolt holes. Must have gotten tightened to much...put on a new gasket and it still leaks...I was told these pans are a pain to seal...what's the secret?

Dirtyd0g
10-31-2010, 09:00 PM
Fiber pan gaskets work best.
Make sure the pan isn't bent where the bolts are, you can straigthen it by hitting the holes with the round side of a ball peen.
Alan

cyoder
11-01-2010, 06:08 PM
Ok I apologize....you were correct as well...the cooler lines were leaking I didn't take the brass fittings off of the old transmission....it all runs and drives well...one question...I can't find where the dipstick tube bolts in at. I had to get a new one cuz my other broke. It is skightky different but the bracket and everything is the same and same length just curved differently.

cyoder
11-27-2010, 10:10 PM
Ok so after a few weeks of driving the tbird with the new transmission, I have a question. If I go wide open throttle everything works great, shifts feel fine and everything, but when im just cruising down the road and going from second to third gear it takes it time shifting. It will get all the way up to about four thousand rpm's or higher before it goes into third, but if I let of the gas to stay at one speed it slams itself into third and jerks really hard. Could it be that I need to adjust the throttle cable?

Dirtyd0g
11-28-2010, 01:02 AM
Dipstick bolts in on a bellhousing bolt, proper tv cable is crucial to life on an aod, 4r70w's do not have this problem. If you question the tv cable adjustment get it adjusted by a properly trained professional immediately. TV cable adjustment must be 31-35 psi idling warm in neutral. With a 550-650 idle keep it under 33. The gauge block must be installed during the pressure test. Any other technique is merely gambling with good intentions.
Alan

cyoder
11-28-2010, 05:37 PM
Is there any way to know for sure if it is out of adjustment? Does this happen often? If it is out of adjustment, how much do you think it would cost to get it fixed?

Dirtyd0g
11-28-2010, 07:43 PM
The only way to know it is correct is to check it. I would expect to pay $50-$75 to test and adjust it provided it doesn't need a new cable and/or grommet.
Alan