So I broke my passenger motor mount today, after having it back for only two days Anyone here have any horror stories about OEM Hydraulic or the Solid Rubber ones from AutoZone?
I have solid rubber mounts for years now with no problems. The passenger side would be the least likely to break so I wonder if you have something else going on?
Ken
Well wheel hop may have been slightly involved..... I was planning on a torque strap too when I get it all done.
Well I wanted to but the mounts weren't broken yet, so I figured I'd just wait till I'm in there doing it all. But now I need pictures of torque straps or a how to lol. I have the basic idea of how they work but no application specific info. Where do I mount the strap on the engine, where on the chassis, and how much slack should it have, etc... Any help would be appreciated
Well I wanted to but the mounts weren't broken yet, so I figured I'd just wait till I'm in there doing it all. But now I need pictures of torque straps or a how to lol. I have the basic idea of how they work but no application specific info. Where do I mount the strap on the engine, where on the chassis, and how much slack should it have, etc... Any help would be appreciated
Looking at my motor mounts and the way its setup, I don't see where a torque strap has any benefit at all.... my motor has at most about an 1/8" to move against the rubber stop on the driver's side... as it is it is against that stop.
I'm running solid rubber mounts and have been for 5 years now, and the motor barely moves, and there hasn't been any settling.
Fraser
I'm not sure about that. My old sc had bolt on mods and it not only crushed the rubber into pieces. It bent the plates. On the driver side if I remember right, they are double stacked and welded together. I had to put it in a vice and bend them back. But there's a catch......I noticed all this after I replaced the broken fluid filled mounts.
Does a balanced rotating assembly make a difference with engine torquing?
Sean