How do you change the lights behind the HVAC switches on 89SC?

phils89sc

Registered User
I just noticed a few days ago that half of my HVAC button or the fan speed selector backlights are working! How do I get to them to change them out?
 
You will have to pull the HVAC control module out with those niffty 'U' shaped tool that are used to remove the radio....
 
Thanks again Eddie. Where do I get the u-shaped tools, or can I make them?

WalMart, Autozone, Advance Auto, O'Reilly's, eBay ... loads of places.

They're sold to remove radios, but they work just a peach for the EATC/SATC controls also. And a boatload of other things.

RwP
 
WalMart, Autozone, Advance Auto, O'Reilly's, eBay ... loads of places.

They're sold to remove radios, but they work just a peach for the EATC/SATC controls also. And a boatload of other things.

RwP

you can also make them out of a coat hanger but the real tool works way better.
 
They're little bitty baby bulbs....I'm not sure where you could get replacements. I just used some off another HVAC module.

Coat hangers work fine with practice! :cool::p
 
They're little bitty baby bulbs....I'm not sure where you could get replacements. I just used some off another HVAC module.

Coat hangers work fine with practice! :cool::p
They sell them now at azone, but I don't know the part number. I'd advise just taking one in with you and comparing.

I have both the hooks and coat hangers. I use which ever is closest.
 
If you're not in a big rush (say, a month or so), hang on - I'm going to be taking a spare one apart and figuring out how to put LEDs in the place of the incandescents.

That way, we should be able to avoid having the bulbs burn out in another couple of decades :D

(There might be plug/n/play LEDs available, dunno, haven't checked yet.)

RwP
 
If you're not in a big rush (say, a month or so), hang on - I'm going to be taking a spare one apart and figuring out how to put LEDs in the place of the incandescents.

That way, we should be able to avoid having the bulbs burn out in another couple of decades :D

(There might be plug/n/play LEDs available, dunno, haven't checked yet.)

RwP

This might be an option, but I doubt they would work right (without alot of experimenting) the plastic optical directors sometimes take light from the sides of the incandescent bulbs, which of course would pose a problem with the led's since nearly all emitted light comes out the end of the bulb.

"plug-n-play" bulbs may not be available, but it's really easy to make them. Just need a resistor soldered to one of the LED leads, then plug-er in! :)

You might luck-out and the optical plastic will be oriented such that the LED's work, but I'm thinking they won't....just something to watch for before you put your dash back together!
 
"plug-n-play" bulbs may not be available, but it's really easy to make them. Just need a resistor soldered to one of the LED leads, then plug-er in!!
In my experiments its rather easy to melt an LED. Use an ammeter and choose a resistor that keeps it at 20ma at 16V before wiring it together.
You might luck-out and the optical plastic will be oriented such that the LED's work
There is a dizzying myriad of LEDs of all sizes, colors, brightnesses, dispersal angles, prices, and mounting types available. Mouser sells components like LEDs if you don't find what you're looking for at the electronics stores.
 
"plug-n-play" bulbs may not be available, but it's really easy to make them. Just need a resistor soldered to one of the LED leads, then plug-er in! :)

Since the bulbs in question are about the size of a grain of rice, and they fit into a special plastic bulb holder, I think the chances of fitting in a resistor are low. I mean, you had better have some good solder skills to do that.
 
In my experiments its rather easy to melt an LED. Use an ammeter and choose a resistor that keeps it at 20ma at 16V before wiring it together.

Or pull the spec's on the LED and calculate. ;) If you're just guessing at what resistance to use, start high and work your way down until it's just bright enough to your liking, making sure there's not too much current through it would be a good idea too.
 
Since the bulbs in question are about the size of a grain of rice, and they fit into a special plastic bulb holder, I think the chances of fitting in a resistor are low. I mean, you had better have some good solder skills to do that.

Yeah, space constraints would be the thing I guess. I'd bet it can be done though - especially if you ditch the factory bulb holder. You could just solder the resistor & Led straight to the contacts.
 
There is a dizzying myriad of LEDs of all sizes, colors, brightnesses, dispersal angles, prices, and mounting types available. Mouser sells components like LEDs if you don't find what you're looking for at the electronics stores.

Not to hijack the thread....

I'm working (well, at least have been planning to :rolleyes:) on an overhead console with LED lighting for awhile now and haven't try very many different LED lens types....Mouser looks like it may be of help. :cool: I've always used Digikey for most of my projects like this in the past, but didn't even thing looking for different selections of LED's. :rolleyes:
 
why do you have to source the power from that connector anywho? can't you just tie into the illumination pin on the back of the module?
 
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