Removing AOD with long tube headers ?

David Neibert

SCCoA Admin
I'm in the planning stages for installing my new Dirtydog 3500 stall converter and looking for some input on exactly what I'll need to do with the long tube headers to remove the transmission for the converter swap.

Seem to recall someone saying that only one of the headers needed to come off, but I don't recall which side. Since I'm not using any sealer with these graphite header gaskets, I'm also wondering if just loosening up the bolts on both of the header flanges will provide enough clearance.

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David
 
It will come out but you'll need a lift. It has to be strapped to the jack and twisted at a tough angle that will never work on the ground.
Alan
 
It will come out but you'll need a lift. It has to be strapped to the jack and twisted at a tough angle that will never work on the ground.
Alan

Alan,

Planning to do the swap on Kurt K's lift and he does have a transmission jack. I don't mind removing the header, just don't want to take both sides off, if it isn't necessary.

David
 
I just remove the passenger side header. Once the starter is out and there is no AC in the car that one is simple. I can do a converter swap in 6 hours once the car is in the air. And this is on my back on the garage floor.

I drop the whole exhaust, remove starter, remove passenger header, remove driveshaft bolts, bellhousing bolts, converter bolts, drop tank, remove driveshaft, slide trans back and down.
 
I just remove the passenger side header. Once the starter is out and there is no AC in the car that one is simple. I can do a converter swap in 6 hours once the car is in the air. And this is on my back on the garage floor.

I drop the whole exhaust, remove starter, remove passenger header, remove driveshaft bolts, bellhousing bolts, converter bolts, drop tank, remove driveshaft, slide trans back and down.

Chris,

Thanks for the info. Since I've got dual pumps and the fuel lines must lay in a certian position on top of the tank, I'll probably just unbolt the pumpkin and slide the drive shaft back over the top of it, instead of dropping the tank. Trying to decide if I should go ahead and install the locking dipstick in this one too. I know I don't really need it for racing, I just like the way it seals to the transmission better than the OEM one.

Doing the job on Kurts lift will also be alot easier than laying on my back under the car.

David
 
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