No Start

Cyboman

Registered User
The other day when I was under the hood of my 35th checking fluids, I heard a steady ticking noise that sounded like a valve tap, or when you check for spark and the spark is ticking away. It was coming from the upper pass side of the engine. I shut the car off and didn't start it again until the next morning.

Well, the next morning it didn't start, it just endlessly cranked each time I tried. I went back to it yesterday and it cranked, fired up, and immediately quit, then went back to endless cranking.

Any ideas? Thanks.

Michael
 
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I have power to the key-on hot red/green wire while cranking to both the DIS module and coil pack. The coil pack has 4 wires going to it: the key-on red/green power, and 3 other wires all coming from the DIS module (yellow/white, yellow/red, yellow/black).

None of the yellow wires will light up, or even pulse my test light while cranking. Is this indicative of a bad DIS module?

Thanks.

Michael
 
please list every light that is on the dash while your attempting to start it, mainly i need to know if the (shift) light stays on located at the bottom of the tach while cranking.
 
please list every light that is on the dash while your attempting to start it, mainly i need to know if the (shift) light stays on located at the bottom of the tach while cranking.

also try pulling codes if you havent already
 
please list every light that is on the dash while your attempting to start it, mainly i need to know if the (shift) light stays on located at the bottom of the tach while cranking.
When I turn the key forward and wait a few seconds, the only lights that remain on are the BATTERY, CHECK ENGINE, and SHIFT. When I crank it the BATTERY and CHECK ENGINE lights go off and the ANTILOCK and BRAKE lights come on along with the SHIFT light. The SHIFT light is always on from key-on through cranking.

What does that mean?

I don't have a code reader, so I don't know what codes are present, if any.

Michael
 
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(pip circuit failure) replace your crank position sensor. i cant remember but its either a 5.5, 6, or 6.5 mm socket/wrench. and use a match book to gap the sensor from the ring gear located on the bottom passenger side of the balancer. that should get you going again.

i dont have the pics with me, use the search engine for code jumper and you will see how to read the codes without a code reader.
 
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to get your codes. locate your obd1 port. my sc is a '94 and i don't know if they moved them throughout the years. its in front of the passenger side strut tower. it should have a cap on it that reads eec test. take the cap off. there will be a 6 prong female plug and an additional small grey plug. the top of the plug has 2 ports, bottom has 4. use a paper clip and insert it into the top right port, signal return. connect the other end into the little grey female plug, self test. turn your key to the on position. do not crank. the fuel pump will run. car will be normal. then the car will begin to run its test. you'll hear stuff goin on in the engine. the cel light will flicker. it will begin to flash codes. google how to read cel codes if you don't know how. or youtube it. your first code will be 111 or just 1. usually. ignore that one. the first set of codes will be from the test. the second from memory. these codes are KOEO key on engine off. to test running codes, disconnect your jumper, go drive around til your car is at operating temperature. shut the car off. install your jumper, start the car. it will test itself and then flash codes. same deal. this is the KOER or key on engine running. after you fix a trouble code, disconnect the battery for 5 minutes. this will erase any stored codes.
 
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(pip circuit failure) replace your crank position sensor. i cant remember but its either a 5.5, 6, or 6.5 mm socket/wrench. and use a match book to gap the sensor from the ring gear located on the bottom passenger side of the balancer. that should get you going again.

i dont have the pics with me, use the search engine for code jumper and you will see how to read the codes without a code reader.
Are you sure that's it? Would a PIP failure it give a code?

Thanks for you help!

Michael
 
My brother got a code reader for me, but is says it's for OBD-II for '96 and later vehicles. Would this reader work anyway, or do I have to get one for earlier OBD-I cars (mine is a '90)? The reason I ask is because it's unopened, and if it won't work I'll exchange it for the right one, but all of our other cars are later than '96 so this one would be better overall.

Thanks.

Michael
 
It will not work on your 90.....

Keep it for your other vehicles and get one for your OBD I system....
 
you wouldn't necessarily need a tester, just some wire jumpers and a light bulb would get you your codes
 
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